Tinting laminated glass.........uh oh

Thirtyfive · January 18, 2014

Hey guys!

Got a question i need some advice on, and as the title says i got a house covered in laminated glass..... Ive got a couple pics to put up so ill show u after i explain the job. 2nd storey residential area. Laminated glass in 2 bedrooms, large panes.

Room 1: a) 2300mm x 1370mm Room 2: a) 2580mm x 1380mm

b) 1430mm x 2570mm b) 2300mm x 1320mm

Now, from my experience and what ive learned is a film with an absorption rate 50%< is safe to use on laminated glass in the right conditions. Also, the temperature can not be too different between point a and b similar to thermal stress but on lami u still have the problem without it being cold. this is what ive been told and have done in success so please if i am wrong please tell me so i dont do damage.

Now, this job in particular:

These glass panes are north north-east facing. so although they will take some sun nearly all day it wouldnt be the hottest part of the day. They are also nearly shaded id say about 80% by trees out the front that go pretty high. The privacy issue they want solved comes from street level down one storey. I have read that shading doesnt always play a helpful part as it can create difference in temperature in the glass which can be unsafe too. i will be planning to get back there to check it out.

What they want: A film that rejects heat on a better performance level as opposed to a clear, however they arent too happy with a reflective mirror film. they would want it to last a while so ext. films are a bit far off on the list. They want privacy and also want it to look nice. So mirror films sorta arent the top as well as something such as Neutral 50% films. They may sound like asses to provide a solution, there not i just done some work for them and they were great and very happy people with a beautiful home, i just said id see what i could do and they were very accepting of the circumstances so i just want to try to do what i can.

Now, another issue..... They told me once i had finished that the architect who built their home had the rooms glazed to reduce "noise," but also went on about the seals..... dont know too much about this area though..... instantly something came to mind and it was the SoundStop i believe its called. Is this a security glass that has a resin between them? would that take more heat to shatter? I have also heard of glaziers using a thicker laminating agent or coat to reduce sound through the glass... Would this also create a higher absorption level between the panes?

I had a look at some external films....I know johnson have a range of ext. other than silver, and ive heard Hanita have a great ext range but they dont do a pre cut service..... Where i dont need a whole roll and im pretty sure they wouldnt want to pay what id charge for it if that was the case.....

Any help appreciated guys but please dont say "oh my goodness you tint laminated glass?" because yes i do sometimes. i have a film, Natracool, its a really good looking film, not exactly sure whats in it as its new to me, although great heat rejection, and a 25%VLT film absorbs 51%. 18% VLT absorbs 55%. I would love to put 18% on but think thats riskin it too far.......Gotta risk it for the biscuit sometimes though..... right?

Thanks in advance

35

Natracool 25% id prefer 18% on this

Area 1:

Area 2: (blacked out with cardboard and blinds are broken on the floor so apologise for view)

P.S. there is a corridor with a stack of louvres in same direction between the 2 rooms they would like to match but if its gotta be reflective im thinkin frost

Tintguy1980 · January 18, 2014

Sounds as though the architect specified acoustical laminated glass, which is simply a slightly different PVC plastic glue used to protect against noise. And if I am reading your summary correct you are dealing with dual pane laminated; is this correct?

Personally I have a window in the living room facing the street, dual pane clear glass with LLumar's LS 65 applied. I was quite impressed with the level of privacy that light of a film provided; but it is a window under an overhang that is shaded most of the day. Looking at the house from the street these days you can only make out shadows of what might be inside the house.

For you situation I would look into a DR35, a neutral 40, 50 or 60 to be safe from a film to glass chart perspective. :twocents

Tintguy1980 · January 18, 2014

Oh and ah, I had to remember you are down under so north-northeast is like our south-southeast. :lol

suntint · January 18, 2014

Even installing a "safe" approved film is NOT a guaranty against breakage. It means the probability of breakage is low enough that the manufacturer is willing to warranty the installation. I've had breakage on what would be considered very safe installations, and not had breakage on what would be considered risky installations.

Sounds like these would be expensive windows to replace if any had to be. I would make your customer an educated customer by explaining the risks and telling them what the manufacturer coverage is in case there is any breakage.

TintOhio · April 30, 2014

So what kind of film did you end up using??

Thirtyfive · May 1, 2014

Hey mate.......

This is an oldie and unfortunately I got no photos now(son threw phone in bath.....)

I took a stab.

I informed the customer about the risks and said I can't give warranty on glass breakage.

I put up Natracool 18%.

Absorption I think is 58%,

Shaded too.....

Not a great choice, but no problems yet.... Starting to get cold too, but no problems do far. Still, no responsibility for it though so its okay but I do still think I will feel responsible if it breaks.

The film is reflective though, stainless steel, but it has a carbon coat laminated between two layers of the stainless so even though it's reflective, still a carbon absorbing aswell, hence the colour.

I've got 18% on my lami doors though, north facing too, they've been up for just as long and their fine.

Still, my opinion it is not safe and I wouldn't say "go for it." I still think reflective or clear, but then again, it doesn't get TOO cold down here so I'm happy to take a risk every now and then and learn my lesson one day.

Lami is pretty tough and can take a bit of heat, I guess if it's uninstructed by any shading, and the sun gets it at a nice time so it's heated up a bit before the direct heat hits it then it's a bit more unlikely to do damage, but as smartie said I still wouldn't push it, it would be a costly risk.....

Still a bit hypocritical though,

I guess the old do as I say not as I do thing?

Tintmaster08 · May 1, 2014

If you have Google plus, you can backup your photos to the cloud and never have to worry about losing photos again 35.

Glass Tinting Supplies · May 1, 2014

The common thermal stress breaking point for clear laminated glass is 30 deg. In your location the temperature variance is slight at best and it would take some amazing freak cold snap to even remotely be of concern for any point at the glass to another point to vary 30 deg or more.

There is always a risk. Absorbing 1% more heat into glass increases the risk of thermal stress, but will it break? Unlikely.

If the edges of the glass are polished it can make a substantial difference as it is usually a bur in the edge of the glass that a thermal stress break will find it's starting point.

Rick is low.. Is the risk ever 0%? Never. So be clear with the customer and document the fact that you have made them aware of a potential risk and that you have used your knowledge to provide a product that will give the customer the outcome that they wanted whilst recommending a product that keeps the risk of a thermal stress break low.

Cheers

Thirtyfive · May 1, 2014

If you have Google plus, you can backup your photos to the cloud and never have to worry about losing photos again 35.

Lol, mad I can do that..... Just Incase, my sons mental!

Thanks mate

suntint · May 1, 2014

By 30 deg Glass Tinting Supplies means Celsius - that's 86 deg F to us in the good ole US of A.

And Glass TInting is right about risk. There is always some risk in installing a tinted film to glass. When you check your film manufacturer's list of approved film/glass combinations and what you want to do is approved that means the risk is relatively low - it does not mean it is guaranteed not to crack. Keep that in mind and advise your customer if you are looking at potentially expensive glass to replace.

The common thermal stress breaking point for clear laminated glass is 30 deg. In your location the temperature variance is slight at best and it would take some amazing freak cold snap to even remotely be of concern for any point at the glass to another point to vary 30 deg or more.

There is always a risk. Absorbing 1% more heat into glass increases the risk of thermal stress, but will it break? Unlikely.

If the edges of the glass are polished it can make a substantial difference as it is usually a bur in the edge of the glass that a thermal stress break will find it's starting point.

Rick is low.. Is the risk ever 0%? Never. So be clear with the customer and document the fact that you have made them aware of a potential risk and that you have used your knowledge to provide a product that will give the customer the outcome that they wanted whilst recommending a product that keeps the risk of a thermal stress break low.

Cheers