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Quick Review of 3M Pro Series

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Bulk Auto Films

Bulk Auto Films

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Posted

Just finished a full body wrap with 3M Pro Series on a black Porsche Cayenne Turbo S.

 

 

-Top Coat: Very similar to Nano-fusion. Which I rate as having the best stain/scratch resistance and self healing properties.

 

-Clarity (orange peel): I will rate from best to worst. Suntek, Xpel Ultimate, 3M Pro, Nano, VS, and 3M.

 

-Stretch-ability: Similar to VentureShield. Not as good as Suntek or Xpel. Better than Nano or old scotchgard

 

-Cutting: Film doesn't tear like Xpel so that's a plus.

 

-Adhesive: Absolute garbage!!!!!

 

The adhesive sticks way too fast. Any light stretch will create marks. Any moderate stretch will destroy the adhesive too no return (IE. Mirrors)

 

When we have a hair or dust that is stubborn to break loose. We lightly scratch at it with our fingernail. On this film it will instantly destroy the adhesive while the other films will take more abuse (suntek/xpel..)

 

 

Here are the two bottle solutions we used with no "great" success:

 

Slick: 3 big drops of JJ to water. Stick: 15% of 70% ISO to water. (Standard works with most films!)

Slick: 4 big drops of JJ to water. Stick: 15% of 70% ISO to water.

Slick: 4 big drops of JJ to water. Stick: 5% of 70% ISO to water.

Slick: 4 big drops of JJ to water. Stick: pure water!

 

Opinion:  If a customer wants me to install this film for them. I would be willing to pay them not too! lol

 

-Evan

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Todd @ Interwest

Todd @ Interwest

Posted
Posted

Just finished a full body wrap with 3M Pro Series on a black Porsche Cayenne Turbo S.

 

 

-Top Coat: Very similar to Nano-fusion. Which I rate as having the best stain/scratch resistance and self healing properties.

 

-Clarity (orange peel): I will rate from best to worst. Suntek, Xpel Ultimate, 3M Pro, Nano, VS, and 3M.

 

-Stretch-ability: Similar to VentureShield. Not as good as Suntek or Xpel. Better than Nano or old scotchgard

 

-Cutting: Film doesn't tear like Xpel so that's a plus.

 

-Adhesive: Absolute garbage!!!!!

 

The adhesive sticks way too fast. Any light stretch will create marks. Any moderate stretch will destroy the adhesive too no return (IE. Mirrors)

 

When we have a hair or dust that is stubborn to break loose. We lightly scratch at it with our fingernail. On this film it will instantly destroy the adhesive while the other films will take more abuse (suntek/xpel..)

 

 

Here are the two bottle solutions we used with no "great" success:

 

Slick: 3 big drops of JJ to water. Stick: 15% of 70% ISO to water. (Standard works with most films!)

Slick: 4 big drops of JJ to water. Stick: 15% of 70% ISO to water.

Slick: 4 big drops of JJ to water. Stick: 5% of 70% ISO to water.

Slick: 4 big drops of JJ to water. Stick: pure water!

 

Opinion:  If a customer wants me to install this film for them. I would be willing to pay them not too! lol

 

-Evan

 

Evan,

 

I value the review but I would ask a few questions.  From your feedback you said that it was a full body wrap and I would assume that you are using large pieces of film.  You also state that the adhesive is way to aggressive so I would assume that you would be increasing your slip concentration more with soap or using gel.  I would start there as all of your slip bottles were 3 - 4 drops of JJ Baby Shampoo and more effort was taken on adjusting your stick solution that has very little effect on the issues you are explaining. 

 

I would confirm with you that the adhesive is more aggressive than XPEL or Suntek and that can be a positive or negative in different situations but it can also be adjusted by your solutions.  Just because one solution works well with one or two films it doesn't mean that it will work well with another.  I will try to post some photos tomorrow when I get back to the office that show a full front install on a black 2015 Lexus RC F-Sport with clean results.

 

Thank you,

 

Todd Bergman

Interwest Distribution

todd@interwestdc.com

303-777-4455

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Todd @ Interwest

Todd @ Interwest

Posted
Posted

Evan,

 

I have honestly used many different soaps including J&J Baby Shampoo but I honestly prefer Tint Slime for my slip solution.  I also measure it out in a measuring syringe to keep it consistent.  I have found over the years of training that everyone has a different idea of what a drop size can be.

 

With that being said I use 3 - 4 mL's of Tint Slime in a 32 oz. spray bottle for normal 24" kits.  When I am working with film 30" or over I will use two to three times that amount of soap as it will buy me more time with a larger piece and I can control where I want it to lock in place with my alcohol solution. 

 

For my alcohol solution I use 8 oz. of 70% Isopropyl in a 32 oz. spray bottle so (25%) alcohol.  In your bottles you kept reducing your alcohol content even down to the point of just water which does nothing to fix adhesive issues or distortion from installation.  20 - 25% alcohol is a good range for Pro Series and you can adjust from there.  The thing people need to remember is that when and how you use your alcohol makes all of the difference.  It can cause distortion in the adhesive and it can also take away and repair distortion in the adhesive.  If I lift film that has been laid down for awhile and just spray it with my slip solution or plain water it does nothing to correct distortion that has been made while lifting the film or the lift line itself.  You need to first introduce your alcohol solution for 10 - 20 seconds and that will relax the adhesive back to normal and then you can add more slip solution if desired to lay the film back in place.

 

Lift lines and stretch marks are all avoidable and repairable during installation but it makes a big difference on what film it, how aggressive the adhesive is, what solutions you are using, and how long the film has been locked in place.  The rest of it comes down to a tension game and knowing that if you need to go back at something that has been locked down and stretched that you try to leave your anchor points and go at it 90 degreed from your tension on the film that way the film relaxes back into its original position and minimizes lift lines.

 

I will have to see if I can get these photos uploaded to a URL address because I just realized that I can't copy and paste them in a topic.  I hope this helps and I will also be in SoCal next Thursday and Friday and I am more than happy to do a demo if it is something that you would like to see.  Feel free and let me know if it is something that you want to do.

 

Thank you,

 

Todd Bergman

Interwest Distribution

303-777-4455

todd@interwestdc.com

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pro3

pro3

Posted
Posted

I would totally agree that different installer having different levels of soap in there mixes, I put 6 drops of Johnsons baby bath in the spray bottle and feel no need to add any iso. 

If I get any resistance whilst laying the film down I'll increase it, the art for me is the squeegeeing out and sealing the edges. Will be trying the Pro series soon and will report back my findings.

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pro-tect mobile

pro-tect mobile

Posted
Posted

I felt pretty much the same with my testing of it. its much better than the old Scotchguard but I didn't like the adhesive. Too sensitive to work with and definitely not a film that can be used doing mobile installs. But at least 3M is heading in the right direction. I also use a tank for my slip solution so it is consistent from job to job.

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tntautoglass

tntautoglass

Posted
Posted

Todd, I've been having the same issues with Pro and it's beginning to be quite expensive for redos. For example, 2015 black stingray front bumper right below the the headlight. When I strech the film to the outside I get lumpy lines from the stretch point. I dont have a ton of experience with ppf but I've done the bumper twice and still same result.

Have you installed the new stingray? If so, where's your starting point?

Is straight 70% a good idea for tack solution?

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