Blackwolftinting

I completely stopped using them almost a year and a half ago. And I’m lucky I did. I’m still redoing EVERY PHP 35% job and EVERY Raven Select “color stable” job I did. The film is pure garbage. I highly recommend you jump ship while you can.

It happened to me as well. It’s a factory defect. Use more slip and try to have the film positioned without it having to slide much on the glass before your final squeegee.

Most standard dyed films will be the quickest to fade. Those are always the $99 jobs you get at the flea market or anyone else that’s trying to race to the bottom. Extruded dyes will last longer, but will still fade. If you don’t want the film to fade, pay extra for carbon or color-stable film. Even those might fade over time depending on the area you live, but the warranty will cover that and it’ll get replaced.

Is it 70 feet or 70 inches in length? Either way, I think the Prelude back window is taller than 30” top to bottom. So that would mean the film would get spliced. And that’s caacaa. I have people call me from time to time and ask me how much I charge to install their film. I flat out tell them I only install my own film. The majority of the cost in a tint job is my skill and professionalism. Not the actual film. Although I refuse to buy a sub-standard product.

On average, the actual tinting takes about 40-60 minutes per car. However the car is generally at my shop for about 1.5 hours. I have to talk to the customer. Pull the car inside. Prep it. Cut it. Tint it. Clean it. Pull it outside. Touch up. Bill the customer out and give him care instructions. The entire time I’m fielding phone calls or dealing with an occasional used car customer. Some cars don’t take as long. Some take longer. But I always over-estimate the time for the customer(1.5-2 hours). Under promise and over deliver.

Did a few today:

Charge more! Lol

The ever elusive Pontiac Torrent. He called for a price and I had 0 idea what vehicle he was even talking about. I had to do a google image search to price him. 🤦🏻‍♂️

Just three piece it with overlays and SEND IT! Yeet!

This. And that.

Use a razor blade in an inconspicuous spot(like top left or right corner). If it flakes, it’s more than likely a laminate layer(film) and not glue. Don’t use the blade over the rear defroster lines*. If it’s determined that it is a layer of film, take a piece of scrap film or the cheapest line you keep in stock. Cut and heat mold as you normally would. Install it as you normally would. Squeegee out as you normally would. Now take a black trash bag and cut it to fit on the outside of the glass. Take trash bag from the outside of the glass, and using slip solution(soapy water), install that black bag over the newly tinted window. Back the vehicle out of your shop and park it in the sun. Make sure the back window is getting full sun. Wait about 30-60 minutes, until the glass is so hot you can only leave a finger on it for less than a second. What you’re doing is using the trash bag as a steamer, steaming the entire piece of glass at one time. The newly installed piece of film *should* bond to the old layer of laminate, and it will all come off in one shot. if that doesn’t work, get the ole scraper out and begin to go to town. Let customer know he/she will no longer have a functioning defroster. Use soapy water so the adhesive doesn’t get soupy and stuck in the rear deck or c pillar cloth.

It’s been a slow week so far. But still got some work done today.

It was a slow Saturday, but I still did work. 👌🏿

How big of a tent do you want?

I agree with Bham.

Did these sliders the other day. I think this was 10-15 year old static cling film. I’ve never seen actual window film look like and come off like this stuff did.

As stated earlier, it’s called “ghosting” and usually only happens with metallized films. If you’re happy with your previous jobs by this company, bring it back and give them a chance to rectify the issue. As both a business owner and installer, keep in mind we’re humans. We’re working with plastic, doing our best to get it on your windows and make it look as pretty as we can. Sometimes we overlook something. Sometimes the film does weird things that’s out of our control. Redoing one or two doors to make you happy is WELL within the realm of a professional shop’s service.

5” yellow turbo for side windows. 2” yellow turbo for 1/4 windows. 5” yellow turbo and Sideswiper for back window and windshields. This is only for the final pass before film installation.

These: And a Honda Pilot I couldn’t photograph because it was raining too hard.

They can only “prove” it by letting you look inside the film core prior to the film’s installation. And then allowing you to watch the entire job. Not many shops do that. But that’s the only way, and even then an unscrupulous person can swap out the core labels. You just have to find a shop you can trust. As far as the scratch; as professionals we carry insurance. But most of the time it’s just easier to pay someone to fix the damage out of our pocket rather than make a claim. Sometimes the deductible is higher than the cost of the repair. Remember, we’re humans installing plastic on your glass. Accidents happen. What makes a shop truly professional is avoiding those accidents, but rectifying them if they do happen.

Call the shop. Tell them you have a slight issue and you would like to schedule a time for someone to look over the vehicle. Bring the car and your pictures back to the shop. Tell them your issue. Allow them a chance to rectify the matter. If it was darker than permitted by law in your state, that’s likely why there wasn’t a warranty card given. If it is legal shading, then ask for the warranty card and written receipt. If they’re a professional shop, they will do what they can to make it right.

Tinted a whole bunch of these today. 🙄

Some house windows and some truck windows.

If it’s been two weeks, I doubt another two weeks will rectify the issue. Ask him to redo it. When he removes the film, you-as a customer-inspect the glass to make sure that it isn’t your vehicle that’s causing the issue. Some of the newer cars have dual pane/laminated glass on the front doors. Suntek CXP shouldn’t do this.