poppawilly67

i use solarfx ultra color stable film and love it.  shrinks like butter and holds its color. 

i would take the truck back to the shop that tinted it and ask if they would redo it.  the cut isnt even close to straight and where it curves, the film looks like it is over the top edge or dangerously close which could lead to a peel problem.  i hand cut at my shop but i wouldnt let that go out if it was mine.

sounds to me like film is blistering after install.  i tell all my customers that blistering on the inside may be present during the drying phase which is normal.  give it a week to fully cure and if problem still persist, give me a call immediately because tint and labor is under warranty.

bottom loading is the only way to go.  so much easier and cleaner. 

here is how i do the majority of the vehicles i tint.  snatch the seals on rollups and bottom load.  shrink rollups and double snap to insure a good shrink like on mustang and camaro rollups.  dry shrink car back glasses using the dryer sheet dry shrink method locked down horizontal across the middle of the back glass so film doesnt shift.  thats how i do 90 percent of the vehicles i tint.  and always use stainless steel blades.  no carbon blades unless using them to shave frameless rollups.  hope this helps.

solarfx ultra is all i use.  love it.

i tint out of a 24x30 shop building at my house.  i send out reminders to my customers of their appt and ask them to drop their vehicle off and have someone to pick them up as it may take 3-4 hours.  i am a one man show and i dont get in no hurry.  im very picky about quality and if i dont like it, i will rip it off and start over.  customers watching is most annoying.  they want to watch every move then question why you ae doing it like that.  im not there to give them free tint lessons.  i got a few friends i will let hang while i tint but joe public can call a ride.  i dont have a waiting room.

On 4/29/2018 at 10:44 PM, quality tintz said:

No need to put 12 inches lower than seal if you don't need it...

its not that extreme.  im probably 1 inch below the seal.  but you know what?  i never had a single person came back and said their tint is peeling from the bottom since i started removing sweeps and bottom loading.

oklahoma is not real strict when it comes to dark tinted windows.  but some cops will use it as probable cause to initiate a traffic stop.  i call it fishing because they use tint as a excuse with hopes of finding something bigger.  when customers inquire about window tint, i ask if they want dark or legal.  if they chose dark, i explain legalities and inform them that some cops in this state can stop you for it.  if customers reply they dont care and want dark tint, thats what i give them because if i dont tint it, the next shop down the road will.

solarfx ultra for the win.

i hand cut and bottom load 90% of the time.  when setting up to cut patterns on roll-ups, i set the factory edge of film to bottom of the rubber.  i then set my film where it wont shift.  next i sharpie the sides with a silver sharpie (because im old and blind lol).  next hold bottom of film out some and bump down window to desired likings and cut the top with olfa.  next i move pattern to peel board for final cuts.  next i go back to the rollup and check the sides with a corner card to see how much inset it has.  next back to peel board where i cut the sides to desired likings.  i never have light gaps on bottom or sides.  as for the top edge, i micro gap unless it is a frameless window.  not saying my way is the right way, but it works great for me and im sticking with it.  hope it helps.

KIA!!!!  easy money

3 hours ago, jh812 said:

Just ordered a 12 pack of them this morning.

best investment ever if you hand cut.  makes patterns look like plotter cut.  and man what a difference it makes with doing those dreaded 94 dodge sliding back glasses.  its a game changer for sure.

silver sharpie.

i use solarfx as well with great results.  ask about color stable films.

what i do on quarters is scrub scrape and squeegee x 2.  then use a shop towel and lightly wipe the window then take a swipe on the inside edge.  peel liner on film and spray film.  then spray a light mist on the quarter and apply film.  works good for me.

this is the reason i pull sweeps and drape the door panels on rollups and drape rear and front dashes.

i wasted about 5 pieces on a charger back glass before. 

i agree it looks cleaner when you dont cut out for the 3rd brake light.  but in some states, it is illegal to cover the brake light.  so if a car comes in my shop for tint, if the film is 20% or lighter, i dont cut out for it.  if they want dark film, i will cut out for brake light.  in my state, it is not illegal to cover the brake light.

i hand cut everything and i do one window at a time.  im not in that big of a hurry so no need for me to double cut.  plus i tried to double cut once and screwed two patterns on one cut.  keeping it simple works for me.

not a bad technique there.  those cars in which the seats dont lay down is a pain in the ass.  but luckily for me , i got those long skinny arms.

orange crush with fusion handle here and wouldnt trade it for anything.  before i used a blue max on a unger handle.  since i tried the crush and fusion, its hard for me to look at anything else. 

poppawilly67.  poppawilly was my screen name in a motorcycle club i use to ride with.  67 year i was born.  poppawilly67.

Quote

Did you work in a tint shop previously?  Or have you always been on your own?

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always been on my own.  never worked for a actual shop.  i got a buddy that does window tinting in a neighboring city and occassionally i will roll up to his shop and sling a little film visa versa. 

own shop.  just me myself and i.