TQtinting

7 minutes ago, jh812 said:

Nothing to them I believe the seals pull but don't quote me on that

 

The Elantra popped at the top front and back stupid easy so you’re probably thinking right. 

11 minutes ago, quality tintz said:

Soap is good ...start on outer corners good tip.. nice and slow let tint cool down don't get too hot different films shrink different try different brands ask on here which films shrink better. 

I used a sample of SolarFX not long ago and will probably end up switching to it soon. But it seemed to really shrink a lot easier than Express. That’s just my opinion though. 

11 minutes ago, Fresh Tints Derby said:

I'll stick to my prices as I believe I offer a great service. My work (in my opinion) is high quality.

 

Just going through a bad week for it I think. Also, the customers that think I'm too expensive are usually the Facebook quotes, not by the ones that call from finding my site on google.

Yep I live in a small community and everyone that wants something for nothing resorts to Facebook 😂 So yeah don’t feel bad haha. Believe it or not a ton of my business comes from Facebook however all the no shows and people who want it free also from Facebook. 

Tell them to go and get a $99 tint job somewhere. Then you can make money on a removal when they realize it was a bad idea. 

Dont sell yourself short! I get people that cancel on me and I always think what a bummer. Within 24 hours I always get a replacement customer and 9 out of 10 times it’s a car I’d much rather tint lol. 

Only have had your issue a couple times and never budged. 

Didn’t mean to post this topic twice either! Lol

Looks just like the older Hyundai Elantra which was a total cake walk. Anyone ever done one? Did not see anything under the Hyundai sect

5 hours ago, quality tintz said:

Baby powder...soap or dryer sheet what you using???

Soap usually sometimes dryer sheets

1 hour ago, CnCCustoms said:

Start with your corners... then work inward. I usually start in center and work out. But when you have a difficult glass I’ll begin at the corners and work stress into center. Also are you dry or wet shrinking?

Dry shrinking using either soap or dryer sheets. And have been working center out but agree with you maybe on this I should start out and work in 

07’ Passat 20% Classic Black from Express. Wasn’t a bad car to do but the quarters IMO were terrible. 

19 hours ago, highplains said:

What kind of heat gun are you using? When I have a difficult shrink I use a heat gun that has a higher cfm rating so I can pull back a little further to shrink slower. I also try to keep moving around so the film has a chance to cool, try to shrink just a little bit all the way across the top or bottom instead of focusing on a section/quadrant at a time. I also periodically blow some heat under the film, that lifting and light heat seems to help keep the film from sticking to the glass as it gets down to those corners. The biggest thing that's going to help you is to keep doing it, keep trying different techniques and learning to read your film so you know what it can and can't take when it comes to shrinking it.

I Use the popular porter cable gun that a lot of people use, awesome heat gun. Puts out great wind speed and heat is adjustable. I’ve made several attempts at the glass and have some cheap rebox film I practice with although I’ve tried it a couple times with my Express but didn’t wanna waste a bunch. I will try pulling away with the gun a bit and see what that does for me. 

Is there any certain go to method you guys use when shrinking a ridiculously curved glass? Example my personal vehicle is a 14’ Ford Focus and the curve of the windshield is unreal. I always do alright until I get to the corners. Tried pull and shrink/directional method on it today and got it but took me over an hour to do it. Plus there’s maybe 1/8th to a 1/4” of room on the sides leaving no matrix so it’s very hard to make anything work there either. 

Any advice? My wife’s father owns a Volkswagen Beetle and is gonna let me keep it and practice on it for a while. I’m to the point I feel if I can learn how to shrink the really challenging glasses out there then there’s not much holding me back anymore. Have watched more videos on shrinking than I can count and it does help but hands on just doesn’t compare. 

1 hour ago, quality tintz said:

I have seen it too...hard to tell they are there if you do cut on both sides of it then straighten on your glass cutting peel board.....

One thing I didn’t even consider was taking the film to the other side of the car and cutting it. Since it was only one window that had it next time that’s what I’ll do. 

But when you make your top cut you hit them with your blade and it F#*&S up your top up completely. 

12 hours ago, Ytram remarc said:

Not sure, but it sounds like you’ve come across a cheap ass aftermarket glass... 🤔

Exactly what I was thinking. I didn’t get a picture and I don’t know how else to explain it but that they are small bumps (casting marks?) from being made. I know for fact I did a jeep for a person I know rather well maybe I’ll try and get a pic to show you guys.

Has anyone else ran into these small little bumps on top of roll ups that are some sort of bump left when the glass was made? I’ve only ran into it twice now and try to keep my blade at an angle to avoid them or you end up with a wavy bad looking line. Anything you guys do to prep for these or do to avoid them? About to take a file to them next time I see them 

I’m at the same point anymore. I was sold on why pull panels it just takes more time? I pull every panel I can anymore it just makes the job easier and it takes a whole extra 10 mins big deal. Whether it pops at top or pull the whole thing I pretty much do it anymore IMO tucking is a pain in the ass big time.  

15 hours ago, jh812 said:

Dang that is a brilliant idea how your film is stored behind your glass! I keep mine in sort of a loft I’ve built and it isn’t very convenient. I will be looking into do something similar to this!

My glass is already taking up a whole wall making no use of anything else so that’s perfect!

I always give it a quick pass with razor then flush it down with solution and yellow turbo. Always get clean results. 

7 hours ago, redneckj said:

I made the switch from shampoo to wash back in 1996.  I mainly use tint slime now but look forward to trying the Fusion All type mounting solution. 

 100%. I kept having tack problems with J&J and with the Fusion mount solution I have slip for days and no tack problems. 

@jh812 have you ever ran into one of these you couldn’t get to pop off? I did an 18’ Silverado Saturday with only 600 miles on it and it was so damn tight I pulled the whole panel because I was affraid I was going to destroy it from pulling at the top. And then it was a total PITA to put it back on. 

I guess maybe I should put my purse down too  but I really thought something was going to break. 

7 minutes ago, shadytints said:

keep 3 or 4 out cutting tops.  knife perpendicular to the door, about 30 angle forward and the back edge up 10 degrees.

I will keep that in mind. I also realize I’ve been rolling the window down way to far when I do my top cut and haven’t been letting the excess kind of tack to the top of the door. Which really seems to help 

11 minutes ago, shadytints said:

winter is harder to cut top of doors.  dirt and  salt on top of doors chews blades up.  if the first pass is rough on the cut I glance at the blade to see if its rough and click another out if needed.  if the edge looked good I wipe the top of door to remove debris.  tempered doors you can change the angle and shave a 1/32 to smooth(round top).  lam have to shift up a 1/16 to recut(square edge).   vids on the tube if you want to see

You only use one click of your blade? If I don't have like half the blade out I accidentally push against the glass too hard slip and then screw up my cut. That or the blade goes dull halfway and leaves a really choppy, perforated cut.

I tried holding like a pen for a while and was having the same problems. I personally like starting from the top and go towards the mirror when you can do maybe I will start doing my patterns on one side of the car as well. 

I have the under hood work like from Eastwood.com it’s a nice light and it even folds in half to get into tighter areas.

i also have a LED construction style spotlight that plugs into 12v outlets in the vehicle as a back up light purchased from Lowe’s. 

I just saw a Mustang last night with one right in the middle of the back glass 

whole car looked great and then that haha.