JoshVette

I found that Sally's Beauty Salon has gallon jugs of ISO but it's slightly fragrented but it still works as normal and does not leave any strange issues after, it just smells like cheap perfume. 

If you're adding extra soap sometimes those tiny soap bubbles collect and don't like to get out.  I call this champagne because it looks kind of like champagne bubbles.  They are a real pain to deal with, you have to back track some water into it and try to work it out the same way you worked the water in....  

I've used several 72" rolls now and not had any issues.

The issues I commonly find happen in the summer time with large hazy patches and bad core impressions that don't heat out.  I don't use a cap sheet, can't stand it but maybe i need to switch over.

Josh

good info to know, thanks.  

On 2/9/2020 at 4:33 PM, G0dbless said:

Slightly off topic, but is the Xpel ultimate plus still not as clear and not as glossy as the suntek ultra, or did they fix that now?  How do they compare?

It's much better but not quite as good as suntek.  You'd have to see them side by side to really know the difference though.  

If sutek clarity is a 10 I'd say the Xpel is a good 8.5-9. 

Film is a physical protection, coatings are a chemical protection.  Film actually protects and the other make it nice and slippery and easier to clean.  

A person really does not need to coat over film but this is America so they want the film and the coating super sized and for 1.99 with a  one day turn around...  lol  

after its' filmed and coated they will take it home and wax it to protect the coating.....   and then put a car cover over it in the air conditioned garage.....    the detached garage, not the one connected to the house. 😉

Josh

Will the Suntek 72 inch film not cover that whole hood in one piece?  just curious how big that hood is?  

nice work

Talk to your employees and see what they think......   they are the ones being effected by it, ask them their input, then come up with a plan that fits your agenda and makes them happy. 

Are you using mainly pre cut kits or doing it with bulk sheets?  

It's ideal to stretch and tack all your corners before you start to squeegee out the water.  If you can cut several inches more then you need on each panel you should be able to tack to the next panel for panels that need more stretch.  Once it's in place and squeegee out don't lift it again.  If you find you're getting excessive dirt and dust under the film then you need to re evaluate your prep process and try flushing out trim better.  Getting a clean install is usually all about prep work.  If stretch marks are your problem then it's more about the techniques you're using while installing the film.  

Josh

Most people use kits so you may not get many reply's.  

To do this bumper in bulk, you need to stretch it side to side fairly aggressively, then when you have everything in place and squeeged out you only need to splice the horizontal line, not the vertical line you show in green in that pic....

There's a bit too much to describe over a few sentences but basically trim the vertically close to that vent edge, then once the pieces are separated, stretch it back into that corner into the vent and I trim off the piece just below that horizontal line and in the lower groove then splice in a new piece so you barely see the bottom line only.  

If you call me I will describe it too you better over the phone.  

Find my number on my website.  www.invisibra.net 

Josh

Get on Suntek's website and look up who their rep is for your region and get ahold of them that way and I'm sure they'll get you a sample or a whole roll if you're needing it as well as discuss costs per roll and such.  

Josh

They just take a razor knife and trim it out.  

Many panels that low have slightly textured paint and the film will not lay down perfectly flat which causes lots of little bubbles and edges like that to not stay down.  If it's not textured like you say and are that worried about paint lifting, you need to just have them trim those fingers off.  

The installer may have forgot to heat down the edges cause it was such a low area.  

As mentioned it was prob a water pocket or just moisture left behind and a tiny bit of air in that moisture.  Once the moisture is gone the air is left behind.  That's  a pretty easy fix.  

I would add Suntek to your list, they are a good film and one I would consider in the top 3 categories.  Very stretchable, adhesive is not too aggressive and it looks good.  

This is a really old thread, I know Suntek has redone there software and it's way better then the original version and still way cheaper then anyone else out there.  

Josh

21 hours ago, Guest andy said:

I want this software for home use but I think is unfair to get charge $50 a month, SUNTEK should only charged for software upgrade if the customer wanted the latest pattern

You think it's unfair to charge $50 a month for a software program.....        lol 

You realize they update dozens of patterns per week right, so you'd be spending a ton more money with your way of charging.  

Looks good.  nice job

On 8/26/2019 at 4:25 AM, alberts316 said:

Suntek is 11mil I believe. the orange peel is not going to fly on a higher end vehicle.  It's good for rocker panels and stuff like that. No chance I'm putting it on a hood without the client seeing the orange peel look.

Have you actually used it or seen it in person??? 

I have used it on rockers with a sample Suntek sent me and the orange peel texture in it looked no different from there other PPF's.  It looked great matter of fact.

It was a little more difficult to wrap around the edges and trim though but otherwise it seems to be a good thick film.  

Josh

It is based off a BMW Z4 so the oversized hood is like an oversized Z4 hood.  Suntek has a 72' film now for hood like that, I've used it and it is awesome.  See if you can get some and you won't have those lines across the top part of the hood and it's a way easier install for oversized hood, takes the stress and stretch out of it all.  

You might even call around to some of your competitors and ask what they charge for a full front and full car just so you can get some ideas.  

Josh

Are you doing it by yourself or with a crew??  

Try to figure how many panels you can do per day and you'll have a better idea.  

adhesive removers will not remove ceramic coatings, you have to compound them off but even if you do remove it the coating will likely still be in the edges and areas you may wrap and still make the film lift.  

Your'e going to try this yourself and of all cars it's an M3!!!    Your'e so screwed.  

I'm pretty experienced at installing bulk and you know what the one car is I dread doing the most.......   ding ding ding,  you guessed it the M3, M2, M5, M anything.....  The bumper is insane.  Even the headlights are difficult and most headlights are the simple part of the install.  

Wrapping wheel well edges is not a big deal, I do it all the time, you just need to clean them extremely well.  Also if you don't get the positioning and stretch just right with those patterns you'll have no extra film to tuck into the wheel wells.

My advise is to not buy anything but the headlights and start with those so you don't waste a ton of money.  Once you realize how difficult the headlights are pay a professional to do the rest.  You're biting off way more then you can chew on this one.  If it was a Porsche or Tesla hood and fenders I'd say you might be able to do it with minimal issues but not a M3.  

Josh

Funny the 3M Pro didn't look any different then the others after being blasted with rocks then any of the others they just circled less marks??  lol 

Also makes you wonder since everyone basically claims to be 8 mils thick how come none of them were?  did they squeeze those films tighter by chance?  

Too many uncontrolled factors to call this a scientific test.  

Josh

Pay and get the bumper covered, that's the main panel that get beat up the most.