JoshVette

Thanks for all the feedback.  He hasn't put any film on his car, he was just asking me about the weirdness when his glasses were on and I just honestly didn't know what to tell him.  He did say if the film does it he'd rather not have the film on his car.   

I prob won't do his car since it bugs him so much.  Everyone's different about these sorts of things.  

Thanks for all the insight.

Josh

Most hoods can be installed without ever putting a blade to the paint.  You can easily cut half inch off the panel and tuck it all with most hoods.  

Thanks  for the feedback.  He told me some cars with PPF on them did not look weird with his glasses on but then some cars with PPF on them did look weird with his glasses on??  I wasn't sure if it was a certain type of film that does this or all films in general or just films with hydrophobic top coats or what?

He said he wears his glasses all the time so if this is the case he just won't put the film on at all????   ugh.....

He also mentioned a car in a garage that had film over it that did not look weird with the glasses on but this was in the garage and not direct sunlight.  Is it a sunlight thing with the glasses on?  if there's cloud cover will it look weird?  

TIA  Josh

Got a call today from a prospective client asking if the Suntek Ultra film I use looks weird with his sunglasses on?  

He said some cars with clear bras look normal and just like the paint but other cars with clear bras looks all prism like and horrible with his glasses on?

Anyone have an answer to this?  

Not worth the liability IMO.  yes you could do it if you follow these instructions from this video but ask yourself if it's worth the risk.  Imagine trying to open it with wet film on it...  

You don't want to be the one making that phone call to the owner that something went wrong and he's got to get a new hood or whatever....

3M rep gave me a couple samples of the new Pro Series and I used it on my mirrors which are very round so it required a pretty aggressive stretch and they look like crap, none of the edges that were stretched against have stayed down after a day.   I'm not impressed.  I've stretched other films just the same and even though there's stretch marks at least they stayed down and in place. 

Make sure your bottles are not getting mildew in them too.  

I need to contact you guys this week, maybe get a couple samples of your fashion films.  I really need to see how they all look on different color vehicles.

I was talking with my old pal Anson this weekend from Houston and he's really happy with your products so I'm anxious to check them out.

Thanks,  Josh  

I'm very interested in this.  To clarify, is this a true PPF film or something more like a heat stretch vinyl?  

Thanks,  Josh

After I wash and clay the panels and surrounding areas of the car I go and spray the trim and crevices with my soapy water solution and let it drip dry then another wipe down.  Much of that dirt may be coming from trim and crevices that the water is getting into when you spray it before you put the film on.

Also when you remove the backing there's quite a bit of static charge that attracts dust to it.  I spray the film and backing before I remove the backing to help kill the static charge.  

Try putting the film on a glass wall and soak it as you remove the backing so no dirt or dust sticks to the adhesive.  

Josh

On 5/21/2018 at 8:13 AM, smartie2shoes said:

LLumar, FormulaOne, Huper Optiks, Autobaun (Eastman Chemical Co)

 

Does Eastman Chemical own all those brands?  I knew Llumar and Suntek are the same but do they also make film for Huper Optiks?

In that pic all I see is the corner notched out, that's not peeling, that's normal practice to notch out the corners....

I tell my clients give it a week before washing.  I usually wash it before I do the install so they won't feel the need to wash it for a while. 

Josh

13 minutes ago, Polishworks said:

I got it down pretty good first try actually..to my surprise the valleys in the center laid down nice and easy ... I did trim each letter individually tho. It was easier than I thought! Still a bitch though.

Nice job

Thanks for the step by step.  

Sorry I'm just now seeing your post.  

How did it turn out?

I would have told you to tack it down on the fenders yes, starting at each side by the windshield, give it a little tug to flatten it out across the top, then go to the front and do the same but you'll have to give it a lot more stretch to get the front edge to sit flat.  Use surface prep (adhesive promoter) on the entire edge of the valley and front edge.  Use lot of soapy water and tack down that valley edge, then gently push the water out down to the nose.  Squeage those valley's well cause they are a bubble haven if you don't.  If you do get some bubbles in those valley's be very careful when you pop and suck them out as you don't want to blow up that whole valley again with air.  Give it some time to settle and stick down before you pop them and make sure you'll holding down the area when  you stick the needle in.  

Make sure you pull the front center area down well as you will have to pull it side to side quite a bit and if it's not pulled down well enough when you trim out those letters you'll get some nasty creases.  And don't try to trim out the letters individually, do the whole word.

Josh

Whenever I have clients that want their glossy painted car to have a total matte finish, I typically direct them to a vinyl shop as it's just way too much effort to cover every single square millimeter of the vehicle in matte and make it look perfect too....  The PPF film just doesn't  stretch like the vinyl film.  

When it's that old, I steam the heck out of it and scrap it off with a plastic scraper, then use 3M adhesive remover.  Typically the urethane film separates from the adhesive and you've got two projects to tackle.  If you can manage to still get it to come off in one material with the backing you'll save a ton of time.  

There's two different 3M adhesive removers, a really strong one and a lesser strength adhesive remover.  

The stronger 3M adhesive remover will ruin any rubber or plastic trim it get on so be cautious, the lesser one is not so bad though.  Get a couple MF towels you can throw away and get to rubbing.  

Josh

Am I blind?  what is it that is wrong in that picture?  I don't see anything unusual?  

Doesn't look like anything is peeling up?  

Josh

Don't be that guy that charges more cause it's a high end car....  

act like you've done a hundred of them (don't lie about it, just be confident in your work and experience) and don't treat it any different then any other car.  If you do crappy work on a honda because it's cheap then you'll never get a Ferrari to do.  Do the honda like it's a Ferrari and you'll have a better business which will get you better cars and pricing....

Josh

Try to find a permanent marker the same color as the paint and just barely touch it up.  Should hide it enough to give you some peace about it.  

Josh

All films have there flaws yes but to be fair that's not really flaws in the film in those pics.  As you pointed out dirt is under the film.  That's just a poor prep and installation.  

Josh

11 hours ago, STEK HOWARD said:

Thanks for sharing that Metropolitan Detail. Our film does have incredible stretch because of our unique manufacturing process, allows you to go further with a 60” than many think possible. Hood looks great! 

Can you give us some real world numbers please??  on a 60 inch roll can you stretch it an extra 10% or 20% further before stretch marks start appearing?  

Thanks,  Josh

With 99,000 miles on it I would suggest having the entire car polished out first by a pro so that the film matches the paint.  No need to have slightly faded paint next to fresh film and there be a mismatch look.

Yes you can put PPF over the graphics, just make sure you really press out all the ridges with your fingers real good.  Those edges will create a tiny ridge of air so keep an eye on them. 

6 hours ago, BigRuski said:

Adhesive remover works wonder. enjoy the scrubbing ( might need to polish after) and get hand lotion (you will need it) your hands will take a beating.

I did polish it out after and I wore gloves.  It took me two hours just with adhesive  remover on just one side.  Oh well, getting paid for it I guess.  

Important thing is no paint came off and the original paint is still in great shape after 20 years which is great for resale value on this nearing $200K 993 Turbo.  Can't believe how much they are becoming worth.

Josh