ErieTint

Pop trunk, unplug brake light. Drop rear seats. 4 plastic push clips with rubber ends pull then unscrew. Then there is a plastic access cover on each side of plastic seat pillar pull that out with a pick. 1 torx screw Behind each, its deep in there so use a magnetic screw driver. Pull the top of the pillar out and you will see one more push clip behind them, remove. Then pull the side trim along the glass ( just yank them out towards the middle of the car). Now make sure you take the seat belt straps out of the deck, then flip child seat covers up, you will see that the deck has three tongues that stick out a bit. Just take note when maneuvering. Now lift up on the deck by the end closest to you, there are only two metal clip on each side underneath that will pop. Then just slide it out. FYI front door panel peals back and seal comes out, rear door requires 1 torx behind plastic trim near the quarter window. Then that will peal back and seal can be removed with hook tool. Hope this helps for future reference. 

I went through the program at LLumar's facility in Martinsville Virginia the second week of October. Class went really well, instructor was super cool and there was only one other guy registered so it was pretty hands on and focused with instruction. Had to open an account and place an opening order to get registered for class, I would say that was the only downside. I did have help from my rep and a friend who used to tint with what to buy size and VLT wise though. They got me pretty well set up and I've only had to order one additional roll so far for a local PD's new K9 car.
 
Have been moving pretty slow getting things going but I am still working a full time job. I picked up a Graphtec plotter from my friend mentioned above and got that set up and running right before Christmas. Having doors cut for me is HUGE because my hand cutting skills were "meh" at best. I would like to be at the point where I could do a full vehicle in about four hours or less. Pulled in, cleaned, shrunk, tinted, cleaned again and back out in four hours or less. Figured that isn't too lofty and is a pretty good metric to shoot for. That would give me two or more vehicles per day ability wise. Would really like to replace my full time job with this once I am fast enough. I have a list with close to 30 people on it right now that I am slowly picking away at based on our schedules coordinating.

I went through the program at LLumar's facility in Martinsville Virginia the second week of October. Class went really well, instructor was super cool and there was only one other guy registered so it was pretty hands on and focused with instruction. Had to open an account and place an opening order to get registered for class, I would say that was the only downside. I did have help from my rep and a friend who used to tint with what to buy size and VLT wise though. They got me pretty well set up and I've only had to order one additional roll so far for a local PD's new K9 car.
 
Have been moving pretty slow getting things going but I am still working a full time job. I picked up a Graphtec plotter from my friend mentioned above and got that set up and running right before Christmas. Having doors cut for me is HUGE because my hand cutting skills were "meh" at best. I would like to be at the point where I could do a full vehicle in about four hours or less. Pulled in, cleaned, shrunk, tinted, cleaned again and back out in four hours or less. Figured that isn't too lofty and is a pretty good metric to shoot for. That would give me two or more vehicles per day ability wise. Would really like to replace my full time job with this once I am fast enough. I have a list with close to 30 people on it right now that I am slowly picking away at based on our schedules coordinating.

I went through the program at LLumar's facility in Martinsville Virginia the second week of October. Class went really well, instructor was super cool and there was only one other guy registered so it was pretty hands on and focused with instruction. Had to open an account and place an opening order to get registered for class, I would say that was the only downside. I did have help from my rep and a friend who used to tint with what to buy size and VLT wise though. They got me pretty well set up and I've only had to order one additional roll so far for a local PD's new K9 car.
 
Have been moving pretty slow getting things going but I am still working a full time job. I picked up a Graphtec plotter from my friend mentioned above and got that set up and running right before Christmas. Having doors cut for me is HUGE because my hand cutting skills were "meh" at best. I would like to be at the point where I could do a full vehicle in about four hours or less. Pulled in, cleaned, shrunk, tinted, cleaned again and back out in four hours or less. Figured that isn't too lofty and is a pretty good metric to shoot for. That would give me two or more vehicles per day ability wise. Would really like to replace my full time job with this once I am fast enough. I have a list with close to 30 people on it right now that I am slowly picking away at based on our schedules coordinating.

@Tint Slayer It's working pretty well so far. It came plain Jane with only a wash sink and lights. If I purchase the unit my monthly cost goes WAYY down (obviously picking up a mortgage payment in turn) and I am allowed to make some changes in the unit. A lot of them in the complex have bathrooms and loft areas. The biggest up side to me was the radiant floor heat system. Less air moving around means less contamination especially with just getting started.
 
Right now I am storing a car for a friend for the winter and still have plenty of space for my desk, plotter and a storage shelf for tint rolls and tools.
 
Now if I could just figure out how to do this shit right the first time and stop throwing away creased or misaligned patterns I would be all set. Haha!

posted this years ago and I really don't use it anymore but this was my back window heating solution.  It was created to bag windows when the sun was not out and in the winter also.  Worked great to bake the back windows in colder shops.  6 IR heat lamps and I later put on 2 more.  Covered the back window of most cars very well.

@ErieTint there's this and bigger if needed -  
https://goo.gl/fd4xAa
  
 

we were comparing slips for strength.  30 min at 60 degrees none bonded.  I use a 110btu torpedo to heat my garage,  once warm have a 40k btu radiant to maintain temp.  20 inch box fan $20 bucks and 20x20 hp4 furnace filter 3pack $9 bucks filters the floaties out of the room while I cut and shrink.  shut off while I hang.  slip tends to pool into little bubbles after installation, fushion 5ES with blue or clear max applies more pressure leaving a slight haze with no puddles and quicker cure time.   ultra bond compared to J&J or other soaps/shampoo's bonds faster and stronger.   was impressed with the comparison.  have a peel board?  tint a couple spots with scrap,  vary the temp and see how long it takes to bond.  films are different.    if I tint a car in a hour, and I have a 30min drive between accounts,  a warranty redo can really cost me $200-$400 in lost time.  time is the one thing you can not get back.
 
noticed your only few hours away,  not working anymore,  want some pointers, let me know.

It depends on what you mean by "colder climates " if your talking near the freezing mark of 32 degrees, I don't consider that cold. If your talking " the moisture from your breath crystallizes when it leaves your body cold, then yes , I do that here in Canada [emoji1063] when it's -30 F
Feel free to pm me your number and I can give you some tips to endure endure any temperatures you'll ever come across and have no comebacks.

In colder months, I leave the car running with the defrost on and fan on high in recirc while I cut and shrink.  slip is one ounce of ultra bond in a P2 and heat the shop to 70 as film goes on and keep car inside 15min after completion.
hot BG shrinks easier then cold ones.  cars have interior filters to remove airborne debris,  shops and cars are dustier in winter.  ultra bond dries film quicker and increases bond strength.  15min in 70 degrees you will have to scrape glue to get it off.   all cars i seal edges on roll downs and use a fushion 5ES to remove slip.  windows used to texture a little as they cured with turbo,  does not with pro handle.