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'61 Chevy Impala Bubbletop


Guest CloudWalker

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Guest CloudWalker

I did it dry for the 1st part and got what I could to lay down then I lifted it up and wet under it for a wet shrink. I worked with it for a while wetting it and moving it up to shrink then moving it back down on the glass to get the film shrunk all the way to the edge, but when it seemed that the more I shrink the worse it got. I got the top to go down all the way and two vertical sides looked like the would stick down when I install it with a little heat and pressing it down on the glass like the beretta. but the bottom is where the problem occurs. Any help will be considered, but I think that if I really take my time I can do it I'm just use to shrinking the honda accords that take like 5 minutes to shrink and be done I'm not use to having to take my time. another thing if I am able to get it in one piece what do you think a fair price for something like this would be. Thanks

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Guest CloudWalker

will do Td but I have never used the dry shrink or baby powder or any of those on a glass that is this difficult and the kind that has no frit to work on. I've done old ass cars where the glass goes all the way into the rubber but they where easy enough to do wet. and when you do a glass the goes to the rubber I have always put the film on wet like normal with the film hanging off the edges then I move the film up or down so the film is like 1/4 of an inch off the rubber so I can shrink it completely. but with the dry shrink I guess it would be about the same. I don't know. Preciate it though

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Guest CloudWalker

TTS where you at on this one man. You said it should be an easy shrink. I guess your more skilled with the heat gun then I my friend. Give a brother a little advise here. and take a look at those pics to make sure we're talkin about the same backglass and all.

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Guest FastBackJack

I do a lot of classics for people in my area. Most people know of our shop to bring the hard and classic cars. I wet mold everything, except beetles. For this I would make the typical H pattern trying to split the stress evenly from top to bottom. Make your first cuts as close to the edge as possible, leaving yourself "burn" room, if needed. Then just take your time molding without putting too much heat on the problem areas. Go back and forth pushing as much stress as possible to the center where it is less curved. If you think its getting too hot, go to another side, then come back to that prob area and throw a little water back on it and complete the mold. Also.... because you have it on a stand grab a stool and sit there molding it. Makes it alot more comfortable.

When youre prepping it go over the edges with a flat blade and then steel wool or scrub pad. CLEAN THE shiot OUT OF IT!!! Then take a hose to it, if possible. (that will cut down on any contamination) From there install should be pretty straight forward.

Hope that helps! :lol6

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Guest thetintshop

sorry cloud, I just now saw this. I used baby powder, and I didn't have any problems. I only had to shrink the top corners, the rest laid down with out shrinking. if I had to shrink the bottom, I don't remember it. but I almost know I didn't have to shrink anything but the top corners. I had the glass out also, and it wasn't that hard. it reminded me of the john deere tractor doors. basically the same shape, and only need to be pulled to the corners and shrunk. it's hard to tell you with out showing you. but it's not as bad as it looks. my dad restored the car I did it on. I'll see if he has any pics of it. I don't know that it would help, but I'll check anyway.

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Guest CloudWalker

Thanks TTS it might help if you can come up with those pics. I will have plenty of time to try diff shrink methods so I will try only shrinking the corners. Thanks again.

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Guest CloudWalker

This is kinda big for me I really want to get this done for this guy cause he is a good customer and I want to keep it that way. Thank you to everyone input.

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