black Cars

[Porschetinter]

AAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHH I cant deal with another Black Car Please been doing this stuff for 4 years and use Venture if anyone can pass me some helpfull hint or info on puck marks or stretch marks(lines ETC...) I would really appreciate any info. This might be a worn out topic but if anyone could help I would greatly appreciat it. I use a mixture of baby shampoo like three drops to a 32 Oz. bottle and have found just straight water for tac down is the best solution for me but no matter what I just cant eliminate strech lines ETC on dark or black cars. Unfortunatly all I work on is Porsches, Mercedes, and Audis can someone give some pointers. other than I suck

[APTINT]

alcohol for a tac maybe? I dont do a lot of it, but I watch Rob from proform do it alllll the time, send him a PM he might be able to help, black sux for ppf though

[alberts316]

not to be an azz but have you tried other films to see if you still have that issue? I use venture sometimes and my best advice is keep it wet on top and double your strokes. Others on here will tell you plenty of other tips as well.

[Porschetinter]

not to be an azz but have you tried other films to see if you still have that issue? I use venture sometimes and my best advice is keep it wet on top and double your strokes. Others on here will tell you plenty of other tips as well.

Thanks guys I used digi for a while easy to layout no problems but the quality sucked and the orange peel look turned off alot of customers .and ive found that alchohol water causes more silvering form me . ive even tried heating while laying it out with some luck but ive seen post of black cars looking perfect and cant figure out if its just my environment or what..

[Speed]

I use double the amount of baby shampoo for dark cars and hot water for my slip and tack solutions. I don't install Venture but maybe a good coat of wax and light pressure with initial squeegee strokes will help with the lift lines.

[Guest tint51]

not to be an azz but have you tried other films to see if you still have that issue? I use venture sometimes and my best advice is keep it wet on top and double your strokes. Others on here will tell you plenty of other tips as well.

Thanks guys I used digi for a while easy to layout no problems but the quality sucked and the orange peel look turned off alot of customers .and ive found that alchohol water causes more silvering form me . ive even tried heating while laying it out with some luck but ive seen post of black cars looking perfect and cant figure out if its just my environment or what..

Find a gel to use and if it is cold say 60 degrees or colder. try a warm to hot water on outside and see if the slows the stretch marks.. I use that and I can stretch with out so many adheave break marks.. Black cars suck ....

Also Practise and Practise...

[Porschetinter]

Thanks Speed Is that Digi your using? Tint 51 are you talking about the Xpel Gel or Can you tell me where to get it. I do use warm water and that does seem to help especially on 50 60 degree days

[Speed]

Forgot about the Xpel jel, that works great on black cars with their film.

[Porschetinter]

Yeah I have some Xpel gel I just heard it doesnt work with Venture I might have to experiment. I was just hoping there was some special trick I havent heard about someone told me start ant the end tack it then strech the shield across the car and work all the water out exept I have issues doing that with lining up light and other holes on the front bumpers when I try to overstrech film. ill keep plugging away and hopefully someday I can call myself a pro :inot

[Guest drwest]

A few things I do personally:

First, as David (speed) said, more soap for black cars, and even more for Venture. We typically run 3ml per 32oz bottle. Tack with 3:1 alcohol solution.

Stretch Line

First, I think it is important to understand why we get a stretch line. A stretch line typically comes in two types. One you are stretching against a hard tack and the resultant "line" is created because all the stretch is concentrated at that interface between tacked film and non-tacked...causing distortion or a "stretch line". The second would be where you are not tacked hard and you stretch so the resultant line is really adhesive distorting a bit as it partially grabs/stretches into your tack area.

What I do is basically the concept of spreading this stretch out. So for example, 5 series bumper which has a lot stretch going around the corner, lay film to where it starts to round, stretch to wheel well and tack there but don't squeegee out all the film yet. You now have a stretch line where your initial tack was. Now provided that this is done within the window of a few minutes where you aren't super tacked, you can "pop the film" by lifting it from top and bottom near the initial tack line. You will lift the film or "pop" (my term) while spraying solution (usually slip) about 2" or so back towards the center into the tacked area. What this does is spread that tension out from your stretch rather than keeping it focused right at that initial stretch point therefore alleviating the distortion or "stretch" line. A few things to note, some extra large stretches may be too much to stretch all at once which distorts the film and gives a stretch line that regardless of "popping" will still leave a mark. If this is the case, do a few tacks and stretches to get the film stretched and then "pop" the entire section and squeegee.

Lift Line

For a lift line, let's look at why this occurs (generally). We get a lift line when we lift the film against a tacked area. The reason being is that when we lift we inevitably stretch the film a little bit but when we go to lay it back down it wants to return (film memory) to its original size. Well if the film was under any kind of tension in that area from a stretch, then when you lift and just lay right back down it relaxes against where it was tacked leaving a "line" which is just the relaxed film bunching up against the tacked film (if that makes sense).

So with this in mind, the key to elminating stretch lines is to "match the tension". With this I mean if you had a big stretched area on a hood and went back for dirt then when you lay it back down you need to match the original tension that you had from your original stretch. So just grab the film and tug it while squeegeeing hard over the line, once you have moved the film a bit into the untacked area you can start to release the tension. You are just trying to match the tension right at that interface between tacked and untacked. So with this same theory, if you had zero tension in an area that was tacked (just laid flat), you don't need to match much at all so just a slight tug or no tug if you didn't stretch the film too much lifting it. This takes some practice and many times you need to chase it a bit (I.e. lift another 1/4inch and try). Also, when you are lifting and re-laying, you generally will always use slip unless you are right near and edge or something where you need a good tack.

ALSO!!!! As someone eluded to already, there are much better films to work with for black cars. Now that XPel has there 60Ii plan on phasing out my Venture use. I can't stand the ghosting on black and although lift lines can be elminated, it takes some serious work sometimes. But more importantly, Venture scratches wayyyy to easy. And yes we avoid any scratching for the most part by 303ing film pre-install and lots of slip on the surface but it is still a hassle and not good for scratch prone customers.

Anyway, keep pluggin away. There are days that I feel the exact same way, our Benz dealership only sells full hoods, fenders, bumper and I swear all we get are black ML, and GLs. Tons of fun there.

-Chris

p.s. - Both these full hoods are Venture