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Questions About Ceramic Films Answered


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Nobody took a crack at this so far, so here goes.

First, I want to reiterate something Rob said which is that having a dyed layer in any flat glass film does represent a point of vulnerability. I agree. Rob quotes a 2% per year attrition rate. I feel that is probably high if you are working with a quality dyed film (Llumar, Global), but I will readily accept Rob’s 2% for the sake of this discussion. Keep in mind that if you are using just a small amount of dye, which accounts for perhaps only 10-15% of the VLT reduction, then you will lose just 2% of 10-15%, not 2% of your aggregate total. In that case, the fading will be nominal at best.

If you take my quote in context you will see that I am speaking of falure on either the Tvis or the IR components and in some cases both. We have studied films in acclerate testing and found 2% is not high at all, in fact it is rather conservative for some products.

"if your film loses 2% or more of its performance every year due to dyes fading or IR filtering components losing their effectiveness"

One benefit of dye is that it is relatively inexpensive, but one additional drawback of dye which was not mentioned is that it works for the most part by absorbing energy. This is true to a degree for the Ceramics as well, but in general it is better to reflect than to absorb (a point which V-Kool emphasizes).

Some types of ceramic are fairly reflective and you have to use methods to reduce that reflectivity if the product is going to sell in the automotive market especially. Some of the methods involve using dyes, other patented methods do not.

So how do you reduce the VLT below 70% without dye? Here is how:

Dye-in-PET was mentioned here, so let’s start with that. The TiN (which is available in a liquid suspension) can also be added to the laminating adhesive. Many of the ceramics on the market today are 2.0 Mil products, so it is possible to make them as 3-Ply constructions. As such, you can imbed the liquid TiN coating in the laminating adhesive twice and achieve VLTs in the mid-high 50s or low 60s. Of course, neither of these methods is as precise or elegant as sputtering (chalk one up for Huper) but it does get the job done for less money.

How dark can you go with liquid TiN? I don't see alot out there below 50% vlt... If you increase the thickness, at what point does it become to thick to shrink?

Sputtering is "clearly" a better looking result no matter what the cost difference. Put a non-sputtered ceramic next to a sputtered and ask which looks optically better and even the untrained eye of a consumer can tell the difference. :twocents

You can go darker still…..

The Ceramics probably represent the ultimate in durability (specifically the resistance to oxidation). But Ceramics are not the only very stable materials available. VLT may be reduced by adding metal (think V-Kool). As Huper points out on their website and in their literature, metal films introduce the vulnerability of oxidation and/or corrosion. While this is mostly true, there are exceptions. One such exception would be Aluminum Oxide, which is nearly as stable as TiN at normal atmospheric temperatures and pressures. Including a thin layer of Aluminum Oxide will do a nice job of reducing VLT without dye. (Anyone remember Global’s ALOX?)

There are other methods, but I have confined my post to those I have experience with.

-Howard

Al2O3 is aluminum in an oxidized state. That is why it won't oxidize. But if you use it then I believe you are back to the issue of reflectivity and signal interference?

Everyone has tried the inexpensive route with ceramics. It s a give/take... take the lower price route and you have to give up optical, aestheitc, and in some cases performance durability.

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Hi Rob,

Question on the films you tested which exhibited the 2% rate of VLT gain: What VLT range were they? The darker they are, the more dye they contain, the more they will fade. As I mentioned, if you are using dye only to the extent that it contributes 10%-15%, you dealing with perhaps a 50%-60% VLT film. They lighter they start, the less they fade.

Agreed. Ceramics are superior to dyed films inasmuch as they do reflect more and absorb less than comparable dyed films. The dyed films primarily absorb.

I would put the lower limit at close to 50%. It is not possible as far as I am aware to go further with that technique.

Optics on the Huper are superior, but I feel this is true for almost any sputtered product. The biggest problem with the 2.0M / 3-Ply constructions is that you are looking thru 2 layers of laminating adhesive. In no way is it "unsightly". It's a cost/benefit tradeoff.

We never experienced any signal disruption issues with the Alox (we sold a PS version) but then again we have never had any such reports with any of our vapor deposited metal films (such as Global CHP). VLR is in the 9-14% range for films around 45-55% VLT, which I consider to be acceptable.

The Global Ceramic QDP Automotive Films which have started to arrive in the USA are 2.0M constructions. I was very concerned about shrink, but the factory has told us that the shrink is similar to the QDP and all the reports have been positive so far. Correct me if I am wrong, but our's is not the only 2.0.

It is definitely a give/take.

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