Tint suggestions

[tntautoglass]

A friend of mine is a golf pro at a local course. The pro-shop has a wall of windows that allow a ton of heat in. They still want people to see in but want maximum heat rejection. It's dual pane glass. Would Sunteks ULVDS70 block more heat than a DR35? Or what would you offer? Thanks.

[Guest Tint Activists]

want people to see in but want maximum heat rejection. It's dual pane glass. Would Sunteks ULVDS70 block more heat than a DR35? Or what would you offer? Thanks.

Firstly, DR35 will be better than ULVDS70 purely because it is more reflective and darker = higher Total Solar Energy Rejection (TSER). And take note, ULVDS40 (TSER 60%) will be better than DR35 too.

However, the above will be quite far off from the "maximun heat rejection" because architectural tints should have TSER above 60% to be more "efficient". We have some products in our trade that offers TSER >60% with similar VLT as DR35, eg Enerlogic 35, VK40, Chrome 35, LX40, Prestige 40, and many many more. The reflection of these examples should not really be more than DR35 (affects exterior view).

Secondly, you have another issue. What kind of dual-pane glass are we looking at? It is riskier to tint if the glass size is very big or it has some coatings. Our old-school single-pane clear glass can last more than a hundred years but not dual-pane glass; so you wouldn't want your tints to be blamed for glass/seal failures in the near future.

[Roach]

According to their spec sheet, the UV70 has a TSER of 40%... Their 35% film (SYDS35) has a TSER of 60%... so more, but it's a lot darker then the 70.

If it were me, I'd show them the UV40... it has a TSER of 60% and a fair amount less reflective then the SYDS35. See if that allows enough visibility into the store...

[tntautoglass]

Thank you for the information. It's very much appreciated. I haven't seen the windows yet.

want people to see in but want maximum heat rejection. It's dual pane glass. Would Sunteks ULVDS70 block more heat than a DR35? Or what would you offer? Thanks.

Firstly, DR35 will be better than ULVDS70 purely because it is more reflective and darker = higher Total Solar Energy Rejection (TSER). And take note, ULVDS40 (TSER 60%) will be better than DR35 too.

However, the above will be quite far off from the "maximun heat rejection" because architectural tints should have TSER above 60% to be more "efficient". We have some products in our trade that offers TSER >60% with similar VLT as DR35, eg Enerlogic 35, VK40, Chrome 35, LX40, Prestige 40, and many many more. The reflection of these examples should not really be more than DR35 (affects exterior view).

Secondly, you have another issue. What kind of dual-pane glass are we looking at? It is riskier to tint if the glass size is very big or it has some coatings. Our old-school single-pane clear glass can last more than a hundred years but not dual-pane glass; so you wouldn't want your tints to be blamed for glass/seal failures in the near future.

thanks roach. .

According to their spec sheet, the UV70 has a TSER of 40%... Their 35% film (SYDS35) has a TSER of 60%... so 0more, but it's a lot darker then the 70.

If it were me, I'd show them the UV40... it has a TSER of 60% and a fair amount less reflective then the SYDS35. See if that allows enough visibility into the store...

[RockyDaz]

Some very good info there, TA and Roach know their stuff, but take note, vision in can be a very subjective thing - easy to stuff up on this one. I did a shop front about a year ago, custy signed off on ULVDS40 - they wanted vision in with some glare control as well and chose this from various options, 1 week later I was back being paid to rip it all off - didn't allow 'enough' vision in.(ULVDS70 not enuff glare control either)

Just sayin'.

Maybe put up some decent size samples.

[Roach]

Maybe put up some decent size samples.

Agreed. Which I'm going to guess you probably don't have any rolls of the films to do that..... but that's the best thing to do in situations that are more exacting then "I wanna block UV rays and some heat" type situations.

Unfortunately, film doesn't do everything. You can't go light and reduce glare... but if you need to really hit the glare, you'll loose visibility due to the darkness of the film. I'll see posts around the web of pictures of really light films - like 60/70% vlt, with captions about reducing glare...

Depending on how much glass you're looking at TNT, it might be worth ordering a 1/4 box of whatever and put up a piece. The last thing any tinter wants is to do a job and have the customer unhappy due to it not doing what they thought it would.

[tntautoglass]

Maybe put up some decent size samples.

Agreed. Which I'm going to guess you probably don't have any rolls of the films to do that..... but that's the best thing to do in situations that are more exacting then "I wanna block UV rays and some heat" type situations.

Unfortunately, film doesn't do everything. You can't go light and reduce glare... but if you need to really hit the glare, you'll loose visibility due to the darkness of the film. I'll see posts around the web of pictures of really light films - like 60/70% vlt, with captions about reducing glare...

Depending on how much glass you're looking at TNT, it might be worth ordering a 1/4 box of whatever and put up a piece. The last thing any tinter wants is to do a job and have the customer unhappy due to it not doing what they thought it would.

I do have some ULVDS 70 and DR35 in stock. I will go get some measurements and put up a few samples. Thanks for the awesome advice.

Some very good info there, TA and Roach know their stuff, but take note, vision in can be a very subjective thing - easy to stuff up on this one. I did a shop front about a year ago, custy signed off on ULVDS40 - they wanted vision in with some glare control as well and chose this from various options, 1 week later I was back being paid to rip it all off - didn't allow 'enough' vision in.(ULVDS70 not enuff glare control either)

Just sayin'.

Maybe put up some decent size samples.

Thanks Rock!!!

[Guest Dropdown]

A friend of mine is a golf pro at a local course. The pro-shop has a wall of windows that allow a ton of heat in. They still want people to see in but want maximum heat rejection. It's dual pane glass. Would Sunteks ULVDS70 block more heat than a DR35? Or what would you offer? Thanks.

Forgive me if I'm missing something, but per your description of what the customer wishes to accomplish with the film, they want to keep visibility from the outside + reduce 'heat'... not 'glare'. Reducing glare and keeping visibility is obviously less likely and an inherant contradiction, but keeping visibility and reducing heat is possible with the use of spectra select films.

The customer needs to understand that darker film CAN provide better heat rejection but will lessen the visvisibility from the outside, so you can help them find a balance between heat rejection and visibility that they are happy with.

Sorry for the typos... I'm replying from my phone and whenever I try to go back to correct, it makes me start all over for some reason. Anyways, I hope this helps.

[RockyDaz]

You are right Dropdown, I guess you are referring to my post where I gave tntautoglass an example of a job I did where my custy also wanted glare control as well as vision in.

My post was just to highlight how every custy may have different expectations as to what is acceptable for them in regards to being able to see in.

Some may think a 35vlt is fine , others will only consider a 70vlt film.

Good pick up though.

[Guest Tint Activists]

Reducing glare and keeping visibility is obviously less likely and an inherant contradiction, but keeping visibility and reducing heat is possible with the use of spectra select films.

The customer needs to understand that darker film CAN provide better heat rejection but will lessen the visvisibility from the outside, so you can help them find a balance between heat rejection and visibility that they are happy with.

I learn something relevant in my signage works where we also print designs on glass.

1. The tint show not be too reflective.

2. Visibility from exterior also depends on interior lightings. A very brightly-lit showroom is still quite "visible" from exterior for VLT 40%. Anything below 30% is not that welcoming for showrooms.