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Roach

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Everything posted by Roach

  1. My advice would be to check with other local shops and see what they are charging. Try to get them to provide quoests via email so you aren't wasting a lot of their time coming out and doing a 'fake' estimate. Another idea would be to call the local reps of whatever films you are planning on carrying and ask them for some pricing guidance in your market. They may or may not be able to help.
  2. I've used Madico's BF film many years ago on a couple panes. I installed the BF first, went back a couple days later and installed the solar film. First time I did both right after each other on the same visit and the BF ended up bubbling all over. I have no clue if I did something wrong or what the reason was, but the easiest thing was just to make two trips. This was on windows in a security booth in a parking lot and got a lot of sun. It wasn't super close to me, but whenever I would be in the area, I would stop by to see how it was working out. I did that probably 4 or 5 times over the course of 2 years. It always looked awesome. It's probably been a decade... so I have no idea how it currently looks. I've used it here and there since, but that was the first time I used it.
  3. I've had... two (?) jobs using their (or Hanita if you will) films... one resi and one commerical.. I liked the film in terms of installing it... and I haven't gotten a call back for either so I assume it's held up well.
  4. I'm in for 1 or 2. I was actually going to use someone to make up one... obviously it wouldn't be official... but the one I have is worn out. So.. sure.. count me in.
  5. Not sure anyone makes film in 30" widths. 36" is standard.. 24, 36, 48, 60, 72. 3M has some widths that are around those... they like to do things their own way. As for privacy films.. With residential windows, the glass is usually just regular annealed glass. If you use a dark film that is not reflective, the glass could crack. So the darker films tend to be reflective, which is also what gives it the privacy factory. I don't use DIY films, so I can't offer any suggestions on brands.
  6. I think that's a fair assessment. Health issues suck, hands down bar none. Sorry you are dealing with stuff. While I have no idea what that's like for you, I know what my own are like and whatnot. Different different, same same as Mr Miyagi would say.
  7. Lots of hot air. You know? Fine.. so tell. Otherwise, move along. No one cares.
  8. I'll give my thoughts on #4... I don't really have anything to offer on the others. Generally speaking, at least in my area, there are only a couple different types of glass used in either homes or offices. So that helps keep the possibilities to just a few. Then in terms of films... while there are a wide range of shades and colors, you're pretty much only going to want to offer a couple choices to customers. Hear their needs, you pick out a few that would match what they need, and steer them to the best film. If you give people too many options, they aren't going to be able to make a choice, and there is really no need for you to stock a hundred different films. As you learn your market, people generally have the same goals in mind with what they need to do. As a professional, you direct them to the best solution.
  9. Had a contractor ask me about the above film. I went to Expel's website and I don't see it listed. Is it still available? What are the stats on it? I called Expel and they basically told me to kick rocks since I'm not a dealer. Like... I'm not asking for a cure for cancer..... Just about plastic that is glued to glass. They can kick rocks.......
  10. One suggestion I have for the next shop you pick... who cares about reviews. Ask to look at cars they just completed. Proof is in the pudding......
  11. Biggest thing you need to learn is what type of glass is commonly used in homes and offices in your area. That way you will know what films are safe to use on what windows. It's a whole other ballgame compared to auto glass. Last thing you want is to use the wrong film and have the glass pop.
  12. Use enough soap and a lot of water. If there isn't enough soap, it's gonna be a lot harder to apply, imo.
  13. That post specifically.... is from 2012 and the pics are no longer there. So I can't see them either.
  14. Yeah I dunno. Could be future work though... so we'll see. She really liked what I did - it was foggy and overcast, so hopefully this weekend it will be nice and sunny and they'll be able to really see how much the film helps.
  15. I forgot to take a pic after tinting, but I did these windows today. 35% DR film, 4 doors and 8 smaller windows above. (Each block was divided into 2 panes)
  16. Think about the # of businesses that fail when the business owners are hands-on working for like 100 hrs a week and you don't want to be there at all? This business requires a high level of quality because each customer will tell 2 friends, and they'll tell 2 friends, etc.
  17. Can't go wrong with either of those films. I say 25, but I like the darker films.
  18. Agreed... If the customer doesn't know what they want, I will leave at max 3 samples. You leave too many and it just confuses the customer even more. You should be able to figure out what is best for their situation by asking the right questions.
  19. That's what I've done... apply the regular film - in this case the lulu on the inside, and then a layer of anti-graffiti film. That film is meant to be removable without damaging the film underneath it. That way if your dog scratches it... they should be able to remove that layer without having to remove the tint layer.
  20. Prices are not set by the manufacture but rather, generally, by the going rate for the area. And of course the quality of the film. But that's more then likely why the prices were close. Now... The other factor is the quality of the install... All installers are not created equal. Wouldn't hurt to get customer references from both companies. The samples are small, unfortunately. You can hold them up to your eyes like makeshift sunglasses... One thing to try not doing is holding a sample up to the window and comparing it to plain clear glass. Once everything is tinted, you're not going to be looking at both tinted windows and untinted windows. (Depending on how your windows and room(s) are setup. If you get my drift.
  21. 1. I like Llumar... Never used ASWF so I can't speak to the differences. Lulu has been around a long time and it's a quality film. (Not to say the other isn't...) 2. You said you couldn't remember the darkness of the samples or what was discussed (I assume). Darkness matters in terms of fading. Visible light contributes to fading, so going too light isn't going to offer a lot of fade reduction. Ideally you want to stay in shades 35% or lower, IMO. 3. I have done a ton of job where we do darker up top and a shade lighter at eye level. It's not as noticeable because the view is different. Upper windows you have a sky view.. lower you're looking across your yard. 4. You want a duel-reflective. The one-way mirror films are super dark. Darkness is in the eye of the beholder, but most customers feel it's rather dark. I personally like it... but that's me. lol If you were my potential customer, I would suggestion a 25% film for the uppers, 35% for the lowers. I might even do 15% for the uppers and 25% for the lowers, depending on how you feel about the samples I would show you. THAT would be the best bang for the buck in terms of heat reduction and fade reduction. One-way mirror films tend to be like like 7%... Limo tint on a car is generally 5%... just to give you an idea of darkness. Hope that helps and doesn't confuse you even more.
  22. NP... For the next windows they need, I think I'm just gonna use my solyx frost. It looks close enough.
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