PROBLEM: Frameless doors! Help!

[Tints'r'us]

So I've encountered a problem which is starting to get on my nerves.

 

Frameless doors! All of which are really simple to do, however, thefact that they shift up and down an inch or two when opening/closing the door. Yes, i know flip the latch over when tinting it so that the window goes up.

 

But thats not my problem, problem is, once tinted and finished, the customer obviously needs to open and close the doors, this tends to lead to peeling from the bottom. It always happens and i get calls 2 days later saying their windows are peeling from the bottom (mainly happens on drivers door only).

 

What is the solution??????????????

 

Rant over. Thanks

[whitehog]

What film are you using and have you tried Tint Slime?

[Dugefresh]

Use a mounting solution , I use to have that problem now that I use ultra bond , no issues at all !

[Tints'r'us]

What film are you using and have you tried Tint Slime?

Solargard galaxie and no I haven't used tint slime?

 

Use a mounting solution , I use to have that problem now that I use ultra bond , no issues at all !

How does that work? normal slip solution?

[Bizzar1]

2 things you need to do. One is bumping your film DOWN (extra long) when making your cut so it will tuck below the secondary gasket. This is not needed but will help prevent the film from catching the gasket. The next thing you need to do is dry and/or cure the bottom of the film. We take a hair dryer and cure the bottom edge. The hair dryer is hot enough to activate and promote the film to cure but not too hot as to melt any interior pieces. I use a bigfoot (red) to guide along the bottom of the film as I open the gasket up and dry behind it with the hair dryer. This also blows out any excess moisture trapped within the felt gasket.

[Ryker]

Either you are not getting the film flat on the bottom edge or not getting it carded out if you are getting it low enough.  Use a gator blade, conqueror, diamond card, cut down hard card, or something to be sure you are getting the film stuck under the rubber.  I have never had a normal door peel from the bottom.  Only time I had one peel was something in the door catching the film edge.

[hungry&fat]

Heat and Tuck a little farther than normal. I have learned on most I can push the top of the window to make create some space at the bottom to tuck easier. New Camaro I pull the gasket since it is super easy. I also normally do those windows first and then the rear, followed by the 1/4 glass. Then follow up with heat on the fronts.

[twotint]

I either pull the seal or panel. If I do tuck I use a tacky solution followed with a little heat. I to start with these doors first then do the rest.

[Jayz81]

Less solution in the bottle for a faster tack . Removal of the door panel if necessary (like on the lexus hardtop convertible for example) and also for me on the newer 370z's . When it comes to the volkswagen CC or new beetle , I cut the bottom exact, and install with a faster tacking solution.I have found that I dont like burying the VW's that deep because for me they have a propensity to peel , and so far I have done a lot of them cutting the bottom exact, and I have not had any peel on me .  The key is that the bottom has to grab fast , you cant be sitting in between the gasket , and each framless door with a kickdown is going to present its own set of challenges . Hope this helps and good luck. 

[palmettotint]

I usually use a torch around the perimeter of the glass. Go at a medium pace three times around. Should take less than a minute per window. By the time you're done, the glass should be almost too hot to touch. Keep a little distance from any rubber or plastic as it's an open flame and WILL burn if you get too close. Wait five minutes until the glass is room temperature again and you're done. Best part about this is you can pro-cut it either with a file or x-acto blade. Also works on laminated glass but you need to be extra careful on these not to get them too hot!