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Tinting "pop-out" windows

palmettotint

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RockyDaz

RockyDaz

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I don't tint behind any sort of bolt like those....I will remove those trucks like you posted but cut out the film using the plastic spacer to cut the film out. That way there is nothing behind the plastic to pinch.  I also use a circle template and cut a bit larger than the latch bolt and do not remove them.. Just a slight light around them and never had a complaint in 14 years.

A must in my books.

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palmettotint

palmettotint

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If twisting is a problem such as the gas shocks on an older Corvette or the back glass on a hardtop Wrangler then I def recommend using the spacer as a template and score around it once it's installed. You'll only get a blade-width light gap around it. The above example doesn't have any problems like that except during initial tightening of the bolts and latches. Thanks for the positive responses and feedback!

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TintWizard

TintWizard

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I just took this pic.

Here's my pin remover . A grinded down screwdriver along with the tapping of a hammer and a spray of WD-40 and I havnt been stopped yet :lol

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TintWizard

TintWizard

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I didn't do it to be cheap but rather when I first started out I didn't know where to buy a proper tool. All the auto glass guys used homemade tools too . Maybe the proper gizmos came out after I needed it :lol

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Slick

Slick

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Fortunately, we don't see many of these types of windows anymore. I still think the proper tool, which applies equal force to the top and bottom of the connection, is the best way to go, but to each their own. Since these are often older vehicles, and the parts are plastic, they can be brittle...something to think about...

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TintWizard

TintWizard

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I'll throw out a tip while we are on the subject:

When you pop your pin out and it's a little stubborn , if you take a pair of vice grips and set them right, you pinch along the length if the pin and it shrinks the diameter just a tad to make them much easier to glide in

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