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Dry spots on black color cars


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I never got into using the gel. Just too much of a mess and to inconsistent when applying it over a large area. I use a pressure tank with baby shampoo and water. Works like a champ and much cheaper. What film are you installing? Might try Suntek. Its nearly impossible to get stretch marks in it.

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Im using digicut film. I might try suntek n use baby shampoo n water..what is a pressure tank n where do i buy it? I have trouble with cars that hav emblems like range rover what do i lay down first on the hood the lettets then go tack down the side.. Thanks i need all the help i can get

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Sounds to me like you're getting silvering when you say dry spots....

 

If this is the case then your getting pre-mature adhesion from either too much pressure being applied with hand placement or your not keeping those areas saturated enough with your solution(s).

Sometimes you have to relift and respray your solution to re-saturate an area if this occurs.

 

Stretch lines in the film is caused from over stretching.  Some films are delicate to this while others you can stretch far more without these issues, but they all will eventually get them once they hit their threshold.

Seems to me like you need to change your film to prevent this.  XPEL Ultimate is my film of choice.  www.xpel.com if your interested.

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I agree with Alassing 100%. You have to keep the film floating, & when stretching make sure your hands are dry, and the top of the area your streching from is dry. This will allow you to have better control of the film without having to press down on the film causing the adhesive to grab.

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I have been doing ppf for a 1 year now.. Im having problem with dark color cars showing dry spots .. Im useing gel for a solution should i use baby soap n water would that help.. Please help n tell me what im doing wrong

Gel is good for coating the paint then a slip solution such as JJ BS and water is used on the PPF adhesive before laying film to paint. Saves on cost of Gel as well.

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+1 on this assessment.  The dry spots are related to the techniques that alassing mentioned moreso than film or solution.  I haven't used the Digicut gel, but I know that using XPEL gel, you should only have about $1.50-$2 worth of gel on a 24" h/f/m/b install if it is being used correctly.  If you find yourself using more than 16 oz on an install like this, you are using it a little too liberally and creating a bigger mess than needed.

 

Sounds to me like you're getting silvering when you say dry spots....

 

If this is the case then your getting pre-mature adhesion from either too much pressure being applied with hand placement or your not keeping those areas saturated enough with your solution(s).

Sometimes you have to relift and respray your solution to re-saturate an area if this occurs.

 

Stretch lines in the film is caused from over stretching.  Some films are delicate to this while others you can stretch far more without these issues, but they all will eventually get them once they hit their threshold.

Seems to me like you need to change your film to prevent this.  XPEL Ultimate is my film of choice.  www.xpel.com if your interested.

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Or, his problem could be the random little speck of sand/dirt that washes out from under a headlight, and ruins your day...  After the job drys on a dark color car, it's a little white speck...

 

Have to pressure-wash the crap out of the front bumper and wash out those edges.

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+1 on thoroughly cleaning all of the cracks & crevices. It's easily worth the time & effort compared to having debris left under the film, or having to lift it to remove it & hoping that you won't leave a lift line. Steam helps to soften the film, & helps lessen or eliminate the lift line if you do have to lift it.

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