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Well Huper just got the best of me.....

eastcoastfloyd

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eastcoastfloyd

eastcoastfloyd

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I don't know how you guys shrink that stuff. Just did a 2014 Charger in Huper Ceramic 20. Side window were cake but shrinking the back window whopped my ass. 1st piece ended up being garbage and the 2nd piece finally went but not my best work. I tried shrinking it low heat, high heat, it didn't matter. Just seems like that stuff is to thick to shrink. Took me 2 hrs to do the back window and then I pull it out and it looks like its got platinum plus on it. errrrrrrr

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vquestfilms.com

vquestfilms.com

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I don't know how you guys shrink that stuff. Just did a 2014 Charger in Huper Ceramic 20. Side window were cake but shrinking the back window whopped my ass. 1st piece ended up being garbage and the 2nd piece finally went but not my best work. I tried shrinking it low heat, high heat, it didn't matter. Just seems like that stuff is to thick to shrink. Took me 2 hrs to do the back window and then I pull it out and it looks like its got platinum plus on it. errrrrrrr

 

Hi Floyd, have you tried talking to some of the Huper Automotive guys that have had success with shrinking the ceramic films? It is not the brand, it just takes a different approach. Contact me and I can point you in the right direction. :beer

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palmettotint

palmettotint

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It really is a different technique. The trick is to keep heat under the film, don't just heat the top. Focus more heat on the edge of the film to shrink it and trap a "pocket" of hot air underneath. Then you can heat the top side much easier. I shrink it dry, but other's wet shrink. I prefer dry because it's a more even shrink across a bigger area and helps to prevent the ghosting that is common with that film. It's very normal for it to take 50-100% more time than usual. This stuff does take time and patience, so price it accordingly. Very well worth it in the end. It's a beautiful film, once installed, and you'd be hard-pressed to find another film that will perform better. 

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palmettotint

palmettotint

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I don't know how you guys shrink that stuff. Just did a 2014 Charger in Huper Ceramic 20. Side window were cake but shrinking the back window whopped my ass. 1st piece ended up being garbage and the 2nd piece finally went but not my best work. I tried shrinking it low heat, high heat, it didn't matter. Just seems like that stuff is to thick to shrink. Took me 2 hrs to do the back window and then I pull it out and it looks like its got platinum plus on it. errrrrrrr

Two more points I'd like to add to my post above.1)That window is a bit of a challenge with regular film. Def. hard with Huper! Be patient and keep heat underneath as well as on top. 2)Ceramics have a slight reflective quality. The Huper has way more ceramic than most. That's the reason for the heavy reflection. The darker the more that reflection comes out. I really like the way the 30% looks, regarding that, but anything darker does tend to be a little too reflective. Certainly not a good match for factory rears!

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vquestfilms.com

vquestfilms.com

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Someday they just may figure out how to make it the same as it is today but shrinks like butter. :notwrthy

 

"They" :lol no prototypes making it your way I take it?

 

One thing I like about challenging film is that it filters out the bottom feeders... keeps the market value up for dealers and we like seeing you all make a living at this rather than hand to mouth. :beer

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vquestfilms.com

vquestfilms.com

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It really is a different technique. The trick is to keep heat under the film, don't just heat the top. Focus more heat on the edge of the film to shrink it and trap a "pocket" of hot air underneath. Then you can heat the top side much easier. I shrink it dry, but other's wet shrink. I prefer dry because it's a more even shrink across a bigger area and helps to prevent the ghosting that is common with that film. It's very normal for it to take 50-100% more time than usual. This stuff does take time and patience, so price it accordingly. Very well worth it in the end. It's a beautiful film, once installed, and you'd be hard-pressed to find another film that will perform better. 

 

:thumb Dry shrink is the way to go! When you are dial in, a Huper Ceramic car takes about 30 mins longer but your customers are usually blow away by the heat rejection and you are charging 3x more so that's gotta be worth the extra wait. :D

 

 

I don't know how you guys shrink that stuff. Just did a 2014 Charger in Huper Ceramic 20. Side window were cake but shrinking the back window whopped my ass. 1st piece ended up being garbage and the 2nd piece finally went but not my best work. I tried shrinking it low heat, high heat, it didn't matter. Just seems like that stuff is to thick to shrink. Took me 2 hrs to do the back window and then I pull it out and it looks like its got platinum plus on it. errrrrrrr

Two more points I'd like to add to my post above.1)That window is a bit of a challenge with regular film. Def. hard with Huper! Be patient and keep heat underneath as well as on top. 2)Ceramics have a slight reflective quality. The Huper has way more ceramic than most. That's the reason for the heavy reflection. The darker the more that reflection comes out. I really like the way the 30% looks, regarding that, but anything darker does tend to be a little too reflective. Certainly not a good match for factory rears!

 

 

Huper is sputtered multi-layer TiN ceramic. This is patented so there are no exact competitive matches out there. The sputtering yields the sharp crisp optics more so than liquid deposition or an extruded mixture. The multi-layer is actually what make Huper Optik the least reflective sputtered non-dye ceramic on the market. Compare (vlt to vlt) to other sputtered ceramics (3M, Geoshield, Johnson, Madico)  you will find Huper Optik ceramics to be less reflective. But like Palmettotint observed here, the darker vlt's will be more reflective than traditional auto film but the trade off is that the ceramic is 25x more durable and the price you pay in slight reflectivity is more than made up for in performance (up to 75% TSER) and durability.

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