Custom Frost Installs

APTINT · January 23, 2015

I'm curious what types of masking people use to have good success with these jobs. We've tried different brands and tac levels...the clear masking works well for visibility and registration, but most are super sticky and tend to peel film off after install. Also is there a certain type of frosted film that works better for you for having logo cut-out and/or custom shape work?

suntint · January 25, 2015

Clear definitely works better for visibility if you are installing a small graphic out of something like Dusted Crystal, where it can be hard to see the edge of the film through the standard 3M mask. Can't remember a name now but we have had good luck with a different clear mask which was rated a medium tac. The mask was more sticky than some, but we installed graphics using a Rapid Tac solution instead of just soap and water and it set quickly enough.

I'm curious what types of masking people use to have good success with these jobs. We've tried different brands and tac levels...the clear masking works well for visibility and registration, but most are super sticky and tend to peel film off after install. Also is there a certain type of frosted film that works better for you for having logo cut-out and/or custom shape work?

APTINT · January 26, 2015

Good thinking, we use rapid tac, but not for frost installs, maybe i'll try that.

tintmeister · January 27, 2015

I usually soak the masking completely. It makes it much easier to separate from the vinyl.

WearTheFoxHat · January 27, 2015

For vinyls like 3M's Frosted and Dusted ,choose the tack level based on the detail in the design. More tiny details = more tack + more patience anyway.

Polyesters and Polycarbonates on the other hand stick to typical premasks very well and a lower tack will work in the same cut design.

The other part of any graphic install is your slip solution .

Too much slip = wasted time waiting for the graphic to stick to the glass better than the premask sticks to the graphic.

On bulk installs of the same graphic we usually install 3 to 5 and go back to the first one and do a dry premask removal test to confirm the film bond to the glass is stronger than the bond between premask and graphic.

If its stuck go ahead and do the wet removal method. If not go install 2 more and come back and test.

Pulling premask off barely stuck film will introduce air pockets under the film right at the point where the premask is being pulled from the film.

WHEN you spot this STOP and wait a bit longer!!

We use a custom 6" lidco in a Squeegee handle for graphic installs.

As an example :We did the laydowns on this Frosted crystal with mid level tack premask project on 30 floors of elevator lobbys in around 15- 20 mins per lite from clean the glass to pick up the trash.

Was a 2 man team. Clean, Strip, flip, target, lock, Wet mask, Start second panel, Strip, flip ,target, lock. While one guy was locking down the new panel the other pulled the mask of the old one. A few floors were done without issue and went down in 40 mins in and out!!

H.G. · January 29, 2015

Put the graphics on the glass ,squeege well, let set overnight and pull the backer. Wet it ,Set it , and forget it !!! :boogie :boogie :boogie Or like Tintmeister said , give it abit and spray the backer, let it soak, and strip it off. There are no hard fast rules, the film/backer dictate the process.

H.G. · January 29, 2015

For vinyls like 3M's Frosted and Dusted ,choose the tack level based on the detail in the design. More tiny details = more tack + more patience anyway.

Polyesters and Polycarbonates on the other hand stick to typical premasks very well and a lower tack will work in the same cut design.

The other part of any graphic install is your slip solution .

Too much slip = wasted time waiting for the graphic to stick to the glass better than the premask sticks to the graphic.

On bulk installs of the same graphic we usually install 3 to 5 and go back to the first one and do a dry premask removal test to confirm the film bond to the glass is stronger than the bond between premask and graphic.

If its stuck go ahead and do the wet removal method. If not go install 2 more and come back and test.

Pulling premask off barely stuck film will introduce air pockets under the film right at the point where the premask is being pulled from the film.

WHEN you spot this STOP and wait a bit longer!!

We use a custom 6" lidco in a Squeegee handle for graphic installs.

As an example :We did the laydowns on this Frosted crystal with mid level tack premask project on 30 floors of elevator lobbys in around 15- 20 mins per lite from clean the glass to pick up the trash.

Was a 2 man team. Clean, Strip, flip, target, lock, Wet mask, Start second panel, Strip, flip ,target, lock. While one guy was locking down the new panel the other pulled the mask of the old one. A few floors were done without issue and went down in 40 mins in and out!!

Nice Job by the way!!!!!

Tintguy1980 · February 7, 2015

I will resort to low tack mask and X100/DirtOff as a preferred solution when working with medium to small graphics because X100 is considered a bonding accelerant.

Like that design WTFH!