Questions and observations after 1st PPF job

ref772 · July 19, 2015

I realize that this forum is for professionals and experienced installers, but you gotta start somewhere. I just completed my 1st attempt at film application. I used a precut kit for a black Prius with 3m Scotchguard Pro. The car has 70K miles on it and was covered with road rash, chips and scratches on the hood and bumper. Far from pristine! Most of the chips were touuched up and buffed out, but plenty of bug splats remained. This was a 'practice car' so I wanted to see what it looked like on a not so perfect car.

Observations:

1. It helps to have a helper (my willing wife in this case) until you get your procedure down for unrolling and laying out the film.

2. While working on one side of the bumper, it was difficult to keep the other side wet at the same time. Helper should be spraying here also.

3. The film was pretty sensitive to the amount of pressure put on the squeegee. Too much seemed to leave a slightly wrinkled finish. (Practice needed!)

4. I was supprised at how many small water bubbles would show back up after I thought all the water was squeegeed out.

5. It was difficult to find a starting place on the bumper sections.

6. I was afraid of lifting sections back up to reposition after they were smoothed out. I thought I would wash out all the adhesive.

7. I did rip one small piece while pulling it off the backing. (It was wise not to fuss at my helper).

8. I was impressed with how it covered up most of the scratches, bug splats, etc.

9. It really 'brightened' up the finish.

Questions

1. Should I use a hypo needle on the tiny water bubbles (.050") or just let them evaporate?

2. Can the adhesive be washed off by using too much water/alcohol/soap or lifting? How important is the mix ratio?

3. Are dark cars or light cars easier?

4. Since this was my first, I have not had any experience with the other brands. Of course, each says theirs is the best. Most installers here seem to put Xpel Ultimate ahead of the others. What is this opinion based on -- durability, appearance, price, ease of application, or mfg claims (hype)?

5. How often do most customers change the film? Not many people keep a car for 10 years except me.

6. How many 'practice' cars should I do before taking a training class.

Tint Yoda · July 20, 2015

Congrats on your first job! I remember mine and the foul language my wife and I were spewing during it. FYI my wife is also XPEL certified now but oh yeah I remember that first one with her LMAO.

Your in Texas, go to training ASAP at XPEL. Those issues and questions will be addressed there and Alex is a really good trainer.

1. Don't hypo small water bubbles. Air is the enemy water will dry out. Anything large though can heat and turn to gas. Better to wipe area while squeegeeing and look from every angle. Also overlap and to more strokes from different angles so you don't leave small bubble behind.

2. You can burn the film with too much alcohol and/or leaving it under the film for too long. Ratio can be different based on temps/film/personal preference. Experiment to find what works for you.

3. Dark cars show all your mishaps where light colors do not. Light colors though show the film edges more. Being new a white car would be way better than a black car though!

4. IMO I would go XPEL. Great film, great support, 10 year warranty, and its proven to be one of the best.

5. Most sell car before changing but you will get some that do it every 5 years. Highly recommend you charge for removal and for sure if its old. Some can be a total &$^%* to remove when they get old and/or were not maintained well.

6. Never too early for training. Best thing I got from XPEL training was wasting their film on a variety of bumpers/hoods and learning to start/finish bumper in a certain way. They design many of these patterns to be stretched and tacked in a certain order. Sometimes is down right amazing how good the patterns are once you figure it out and training will get you light years ahead on that side of it.

Bulk Auto Films · July 20, 2015

Advice:

Ditch 3M Pro Series and get either Suntek or Xpel Ultimate. (Suntek is by far the easiest film to install with)

3M Pro Series has a terrible adhesive that's too strong and sensitive at the same time.

Two Installation Solutions for everything film except 3M Pro Series:

-Slip: 2-4 drops of johnsons baby shampoo to water bottle.

-Tact: 15% of 70% isopropyl alcohol to water bottle.

When I install pre-cut bumpers by myself. I always start at the driver side wheel well. Then slowly work my way to the passenger side.

With two installers. We start with any prenoun center corner. Then each installers takes a side, passenger or driver. (helper doesn't count as second installer)

ref772 · July 20, 2015

Thanks guys for the advice. I did notice that just laying the film on the surface for only a few minutes would allow it to stick. That was annoying. I expected it to float for a little while. From your comment, I assume the other brand's adhesives are not as sensitive. I started the bumper from the tow hook cutout since this was a precut kit and that feature was fixed, and then streched in both directions, leaving the cutout stationary. It didn't take long to realize that there are definite areas that you should start your tacks in. I assume that experience will allow you to determine the best starting points just by looking at the car and pattern. Since I am in Texas, the Xpel training would be close. I just wanted to get familar enough with the application process to be able to ask intelligent questions. Thanks again for your comments.

tango2 · July 22, 2015

Current advice on 3m pro is double your soap density compared to other films and just flush with water no ISO involved

Testing this process now

The regular mixes will cause silvering and other issues so the advice does seem to make sense

Flygti32 · July 25, 2015

You could also go to the xpel installation gel. I have been using that for 3 years now and won't go back to water. It leaves the film suspended above the surface longer and does not evaporate as fast as water. It's also pure so no contaminates in the gel like water from a tap.( although I quickly changed to RO water years and years ago instead of tap)

tango2 · July 25, 2015

gel brings its own issues tried it and my guys learned to loathe it

Sometimes the tried and trusted ways are the best:)

ref772 · July 25, 2015

I haven't tried the gel yet. I can see where a slower rate of evaporation would be a definite advantage, unless you work really fast. I assume speed will come with experience. I found myself rushing through a section, not taking enough time to work out all the little water bubbles, since the non worked areas seemed to want to adhere too quickly. I did use distilled water for my mixture.

There is a lot of knowledge on this forum. Thanks

Toronto Guy · July 28, 2015

Excellent logic to start at the tow hook.

The bubbles in pro are odd, almost like XPEL ultimate. The higher the alcohol concentration in your tack solution the more pronounced they will be, and the quicker they cure. As Tint Yoda mentioned, don't worry about the finer bubbles. It's the start of the curing process.

Last week, we did a whole hood on a black car, in a shop that may have been upwards of 90-95 degrees at the time. Lots of slip solution used, but the curing process played out right before our eyes as we heated and wiped it down. It is a lot faster cure time than prior 3M incarnations, and by the time we got packed up and the bill signed, there were few/almost no bubbles left.

seex · December 7, 2015

Excellent logic to start at the tow hook.

The bubbles in pro are odd, almost like XPEL ultimate. The higher the alcohol concentration in your tack solution the more pronounced they will be, and the quicker they cure. As Tint Yoda mentioned, don't worry about the finer bubbles. It's the start of the curing process.

Last week, we did a whole hood on a black car, in a shop that may have been upwards of 90-95 degrees at the time. Lots of slip solution used, but the curing process played out right before our eyes as we heated and wiped it down. It is a lot faster cure time than prior 3M incarnations, and by the time we got packed up and the bill signed, there were few/almost no bubbles left.

Is there a way of not even having those "bubbles" appear after installation(using xpel on dark full hood)? They do fortunately disappear after a day, but I would prefer to spot other potential imperfections right after installation without those "bubbles" hindering my inspection. Nano fusion does not have that problem right after installation.