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Wrapping a boat


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Like someone said before you are better off using a wrap material like 3m 1080 or avery supreme rather than a sign vinyl.  An air egress vinyl is going to be reposition-able and make the install much easier, especially if you don't have any experienced hands to help.  If I were to wrap that I would get a 60" wide  roll of 3m 1080 or avery supreme (they only come in 60" unless you find a shop that will cut them down for you)   hang it off the side with some masking tape and cut what you need from there.   That will leave you with half the roll for mistakes or to wrap other pieces on the boat.  If price is an issue you can look into cheaper brands like vvivid or tekwraps, both hold up pretty well but have a really aggressive adhesive that might give you some issues learning to wrap with.  Also with boats you have to edge seal, best way is to use a seal it pen or one shot clear on the edges.  

 

You can wrap below the water line as long as the edges are sealed.  I wouldn't recommend it for a boat that stays in the water though.  Most boats that are wrapped below the water line are boats that spend more time on a trailer than in the water. 

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Thank you.  Does anyone have a specific website that deals in what I need?  It sounds like 60 inch 3M 1080 in 60inch widths is the way to go. 
To be perfectly clear - I am not going below the water line.  The 9-inch area I am referring to is the span between the rubrail and the first crease in the fiberglass going down from the top. None of it is below the waterline.

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The wrap vinyl can be messed up just as easy with "beginner" dry only installs

Fellers.com? is the world's biggest wrap/vinyl supply company,,many warehouse for shipping

They probly can custom cut you a 9in wide of whatever you want and rapid tack solution will make it easy and it will bend that little curve nicely with non wrap vinyl

You really don't want or need a 60in roll for 2 9in+26ft stripes?lol

And a felt block squeege is good to have/couple bucks

Good luck

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Thank you.  Does anyone have a specific website that deals in what I need?  It sounds like 60 inch 3M 1080 in 60inch widths is the way to go. 

To be perfectly clear - I am not going below the water line.  The 9-inch area I am referring to is the span between the rubrail and the first crease in the fiberglass going down from the top. None of it is below the waterline.

 

Fellers.com and Metrorestyling.com are the better options.  like dootint said fellers has a lot of warehouses, you can usually pick up materials same day from a close warehouse.

 

The wrap vinyl can be messed up just as easy with "beginner" dry only installs

Fellers.com? is the world's biggest wrap/vinyl supply company,,many warehouse for shipping

They probly can custom cut you a 9in wide of whatever you want and rapid tack solution will make it easy and it will bend that little curve nicely with non wrap vinyl

You really don't want or need a 60in roll for 2 9in+26ft stripes?lol

And a felt block squeege is good to have/couple bucks

Good luck

 

 

any vinyl "can" be messed up.  with an air egress vinyl he can tack down the whole stripe as hes pulling the backing paper off then go back and finish it with the squeegee, much easier than having to spray as hes moving down the boat and squegee to make sure it stays.  also very simple to do without help this way.  Wrap vinyls are also very conformable, unless you get a cheaper calandered film which still is conformable enough for what he needs.  Why would you try and bend around the curve instead of using a piece wide enough to run straight? It would cause bunching that would have to be stretched out which then puts stress on the vinyl, probably not too much but definitely unnecessary if there is a way around it.  and hes not going to want to get a piece exactly to size, have at least a couple inches extra on top and bottom and trim at the end.  

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Thats what knifeless tape is for!!!!

 

http://knifelesstechsystems.com/Products.aspx

Seen that in the fellers book,,can it be used to cut tint?

 

 

Dont think that would work, even if the filament was strong enough to cut tint you would need the tint completely adhered to the glass so it wouldn't get pulled up when trying to cut it.  What application were you thinking about using that on?

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