Jump to content

DIY Wrapping of a 1999 BMW M5


Recommended Posts

So I have been lurking for a while reading up on wrapping and watching tons and tons of videos. I was wondering if you guys could help me with a few questions but first some information on the car:

 

1999 BMW M5

- Paint is in bad shape. It was sprayed some kind of color changing paint color and it looks and FEELS awful. It doesn't have many dings or dents but I will be checking, bondo and sanding any areas that I don't think is right

- I already have the wrap. It is Oracal 651G in gloss white. I got a stellar deal on it. I have 50 yards by 48" so I have plenty to wrap this a couple times if it comes out really really bad.

- I want to wrap the roof and mirrors black. What kind of vinyl do you recommend that is reasonably priced.

 

 

1. What is the best way to prep surfaces for a car with crappy paint? (The previous owner sprayed some kind of color changing paint and it looks awful. I have no regrets sanding it to make it smooth but what grit should I stop at?)

2. I have a quality heatgun, heated garage, flattening tools, buckets, water, soap. Is there anything else I need? 3M adhesive? 

3. Is this hard to do alone? I assume the more people helping the better but just wondering.

4. How long should I expect this to take? I was planning on doing the easy stuff first (hood and trunk) to get an idea for what to expect with dry time, stretching, applying and moving. 

 

Now I am not looking for this to be amazing. I will be happy if it looks uniform from 10ft. I am doing this for now since I have to wait for my friend to have time to legitimately paint my car (which is even more work and costs a FORTUNE for a good one). 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm sorry, but the oracal 651 is vinyl ment for decals. It has no air release so it will be super hard for you as a beginner to install it correctly. One thing you will have to look out for is because your paint is in such bad shape and you spray painted it, the paint may come up.

Install you will have to get an air release pen or needle to let the air out.

Preping the car, just make sure you wash the car, but do not wax it. After that microfiber and alcohol before you lay the material. We usually take the car apart and wrap it individually. We would not use the 3m ashesive, only because its almost like putting super glue on your car. The more hands you have help is good, but to many could be a bad thing. We have a crew of 3 help out with installs.

There should not be a drying time aince it is a dry install. You can expect a wrap to last around a year with normal driving, but longer if you take care of it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 You can expect a wrap to last around a year with normal driving, but longer if you take care of it.

 can I ask where you get a year from? I am guessing this is due to the Oracal as there is no reason you shouldn't get the full 5 years (before recommended removal) out of a properly wrapped car using high quality wrap materials (both being equally important as each other for longevity).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I base it off of the fact that the vinyl that he is using is not the correct type for the application, and the difficulty of the car. Yes it should have a longer lifespan, but if he is using oracal 970RA, or Avery Sw900, or 3m 1080. These are your cast vinyls not calandared.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well this kinda sucks haha. I guess I should have asked before purchasing that vinyl. The questions now are:

 

1. Is it that bad? Should I get a new one?

2. I don't mind the paint coming up. It will be coming up when it gets repainted anyways so I am not too worried. Will 3M adhesive help it last longer?

3. This is a dry application? I thought wet application is easier and I can move it around to some degree?

4. I assume I need the smallest needle I can find in order to remove bubble but not let the vinyl appear to have holes

 

I still didn't see anyone address the sanding and paint issue. It is rough. Like rough to the touch. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 it is not ideal. I feel you would have a hard time because the vinyl that you do have does not have air release channels.

2 the 94 primer will help the edges stay down longer. Ultimatly its up to you to wash it every week or so to keep the debris off the edges.

3 it is a dry application. The adhesive on the back allows you to pick up the material and set it down. Your goal should be to limit the number of times you do this. 3m is currently going through some issues with their vinyl where the adhesive separates from the vinyl. This causes a bubble that wont go away. You may get away with putting primer in, but you will see it

4 sure or a safety pin.

5 as long as the surface is the same as you would paint it you should be fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  •   Sponsored by
    signwarehouse

    martinmetalwork.com

    tinttek

    filmvinyldesigns

    ride wrap

    Conco

    Lexen

    tintwiz

    auto-precut.com

  • Activity Stream

    1. 3

      South facing window tint

    2. 3

      South facing window tint

    3. 0

      Sun Pro Glass Tinting is NOW HIRING experienced Installers

    4. 3

      South facing window tint

    5. 3

      South facing window tint

    6. 4

      Wet shrinking problems with certain windows

    7. 4

      Wet shrinking problems with certain windows

    8. 4

      Wet shrinking problems with certain windows

    9. 4

      Wet shrinking problems with certain windows

    10. 4

      Wet shrinking problems with certain windows

×
×
  • Create New...