Shaving too edge advice

[Blackdout]

For the past couple days I've been trying to shave the top edge with my olfa. Do you guys use a stainless steel or carbon blade to shave? I currently file my top edge but trying to improve on other methods to see if it's cleaner and faster. if you guys could shed some light on your techniques for shaving like right angle to hold your knife how many clicks I should have my blade out and so on it would be highly appreciated.

[highplains]

Usually when I shave mine I use a stainless blade in my Olfa extended fully and hold it between 30-45* to the glass. That gives some flex to the blade and extra cutting length to adjust as its sliding along the bevel.

Recently I've started using 1" stainless single edge blades that have been dulled some from cleaning. I hold them at about the same angle but use a shorter stroke similar to how you would file and thats been working really well.

[shadytints]

shave on the outside with olfa.  well really not shaving but about same result.  tempered windows the top of glass is rounded. typically I cut the top with olfa 30 degrees forward and the back up maybe 10 perpendicular to window.  if you do not get a clean cut for some reason you can angle the back down and recut another 1/32 off.  better be sharp blade.  the key is to not change the angle of the blade thru the cut.  for shaved look you have to go for the deeper angle.  when you hang it, it should be a perfect match if not, adjust left or right till it is.  Laminate the top is flat and the lam might be above the glass in spots.  if need be, cut off the excess so the olfa slides smooth across the top.  unframed doors, if the top off the door tapers to the back going down, adjust 1/8 extra to compensate for gap when applied. if the door edge goes  tapers forward, remove a 1/8.    on these I start by putting film on the outside of door with the bottom  1/4 past inner sweep.  cut front and shift forward. next cut back edge and adjust for door angle.  last cut the top.  if it is not a clean cut you can shift pattern up a little and cut again, the extra 1/4 on the bottom is the oops factor.

[Arc tint]

Good info guys I bin trying to get this down as well. Like everything practice makes perfect

[E_Loc]

I just recently started shaving and filing too. The film likes to lift off the window while I'm doing it causing a little contamination or sometimes snags and tears and then I have to redo the entire thing. Maybe the film doesn't have the most aggressive adhesive? Because I have tried heating the glass from the outside to prevent that but that adds extra time.

[E_Loc]

I use my carbon blade btw

[Lock]

You will continue to have contamination along the top if the film hasn't had time to dry somewhat.

If you pull the seals or you're doing frameless doors just stick one door and move on to something else then after some time go back and shave.

[shadytints]

heat or torch it down on the inside,  I do that on every vehicle so when the rocket scientist rolls it down leaving the store I know it wont peel.

[Blackdout]

Thanks for the advice. I'll give it a shot. I to have the same problem as e loc. When I shave the film sometimes lifts off the glass or binds causing contamination or a bad cut causing me to redo.

[KonSiva]

I was trained to use an EXACTO knife to shave the window on the inside. When shaving on the inside, it's better to have at least 1/8" over-hang or more.  I have the shaved film strip over-hang on the outside of the glass i'm shaving.  I don't like using Alfa because it dulls the blade ("frost makes the blade stick", sorry that's a movie quote lol ) and then when you cut back windows or work on your glass on the wall,  you scratch it!     

 

I filed few times, and hated it.. fine film and glass dust is a murder if gets into your film. 

 

some windows have a crappy edge and makes it impossible to shave, but that's one out of 50 plus cars. 

 

Good Luck.. Window Tinting is an ART!