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Back windows causing peanuts?


Guest bbvaldezjuly4th

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Nice, I'll give it a try! I've been using steel wool with denatured alcohol for a couple years on windows you just know are going to peanut. It definitely helped, maybe only get 3 or 4 on say a new mustang. But a friend of mine told me to do exactly what I normally do with the wool and denatured alcohol, but just use film on when I stick it. I've only done it 3 times now, but no peanuts yet! ( 2 mustangs and a challenger). Next one, I'll try the back blade for sure.

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On 1/19/2018 at 8:52 PM, flat rock stan said:

If you have peanuts try the Rike way to form. I have watched @Ryker several times and when you finish the film looks like it is just out of the box with absolutely no distortion. Improper shrinking can cause them for sure :twocents

I'd like to see the Rike method, is there somewhere I can go to see a video of it? There is definitely an effect on the amount of peanuts from shrinking poorly! I've also noticed certain brands of film will react better on those particular cars when (dry or wet shaped) depending on the tint your using 

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Did a challenger today and did the back blade trick for the first time and white scrubby, 0 peanuts. Have to redo a charger back glass I did last week, peanuts. I did this back window 4 times. I still struggle with these windows. I steel wool twice, white scrub twice, and use low heat. It’s not like this is my first rodeo. Popular car to turn away. Plain to see I’m doing something wrong. Any more ideas? Definitely need some help, Thanks

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@Ryker

that had to be the best (most original and obviously effective) idea I've come across. That is the same way I set up and dry shrink tougher windows. 4 pockets and get the hot air under the film before shrinking. I never even thought about doing both things at the same time. I can't wait to try it on those Model X windshields!

thanks

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10 hours ago, Ryker said:

In my signature is a link or look up "the ryk shrink" on YouTube.   Old video and not hq but you can see well enough to understand. 

 

I've tried this a few times but can't seem to get it to work. When I use the heat gun to blow the hot air under the film it shrinks the edge of the film and lays flat on the glass rather than lifting up and blowing the air underneath. Than i have an issue of trying to shrink the fingers when the edge of the film is pretty much locked down. It only happens on the bottom half though, I can do it fine on the top half. 

Edited by WL Tint
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7 hours ago, WL Tint said:

 

I've tried this a few times but can't seem to get it to work. When I use the heat gun to blow the hot air under the film it shrinks the edge of the film and lays flat on the glass rather than lifting up and blowing the air underneath. Than i have an issue of trying to shrink the fingers when the edge of the film is pretty much locked down. It only happens on the bottom half though, I can do it fine on the top half. 

You have to keep the under gun back far enough to not actually shrink.  I have used a hot hairdryer for the under gun and it worked well.  Hairdryer won't shrink film but will hold it up and heat it up.

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PSA You may want to think twice before backblading on a Challenger( and probably chargers and 300s for that matter). 

 

I tried this method on a small area of a challenger and sure enough there were very light scratch marks.

 

This may work well on many vehicles but those of us that work on these mopar glass vehicles regularly,  know that their glass seems to be very soft. 

 

You may not notice it at a glance but if you look closely you'll see them. 

 

*You've been warned*

Edited by Lock
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