Headlight PPF pattern for BMW E71 2008?

[mobiledynamics]

And if it's one of those cases  that you need to spend X time to get them out.....while it's out, I'd probably put in new turns and Xenon's to as part of preventative maintenance...

[conandrum]

19 minutes ago, mobiledynamics said:

... Spray for UV, PPF to protect the lense ...

 

 

I think you are very wrong here. 

Check out this video: 

 

 

Actually I decided to go for 3M Scotchguard PPF specifically because of the superior UV protection & lens protection all at once. It is much thicker than any spray/smear clear coat and is guaranteed for 5 years by 3M (pro = 10 years).

No chances of cracking, self healing properties, easy on/off/repeat.

I think you cannot beat it. 

I decided against clear coating first and then ppf, simply for the ease of reapplication of ppf whenever needed ie. not having to deal with any yellowing clear coat under the ppf ie. remove ppf, run a polisher for 2 minutes and ppf again.

 

PS. I am the first owner, car is excellent. After headlights I will do some body work on stone chips and a general one-step polish and its perfect!

[mobiledynamics]

Unless you are able to correctly strethch/tuck/wrap the film so that none of the lense is exposed....you're fine with PPF. 

Per you original inquiry about asking for a precut - for sure there will be some level of lense exposed....

 

I don't know ### about 3M film but maybe this is a regional thing......3M was a PPF brand one talked and installed 20 years about but I can't think of a single dealer -in a very wide net circle of cherry picked PPF guys- who use 3M for PPF.

 

Good luck. The key is covering all facets of the lense.

Whether it be by spray or PPF (without any partial plastic exposed) - aka, you will get partial with pre-cuts.

 

In the pattern software. guys can mimic and add a mm here or there to allow for tuck...

Getting it to stick on the curve .......over the long run will be key here

[conandrum]

I get your notion... cover it to the edges.

So you are suggesting I cut it on the lens directly like this guy, who gave me the idea in the first place:

 

I will not bother atm to remove the headlight. I will give it a go while on the car. If I see it coming unstuck at the edges after some time, I will revisit.

Any tips on doing as good of a job as possible at the edges? I heard spraying some alcohol (dilution?) near the edges will help them stick better and faster (is that true)? 

 

BTW. thanks for pushing me in the right direction.

Edited July 24, 2023 by conandrum

[conandrum]

2 hours ago, Dano said:

Probably just needed more soap in your solution. It may not be the best quality film, rolling it up shouldn't cause that.

What ratios of soap do you suggest? 

Thanks for trying to help.

[mobiledynamics]

Are you using the headlight film (which is thicker) than the film for paint (thinner)....

I mention thicker...as the thicker ones tend to want to unwrap from the tuck if not tacked on tight due to thick film-curve...

Good luck either way. If you pop the hood, looks like you have plenty of space to wrap/tuck the top.

 

The sides or bottom of the headlight.......eh, maybe grabs some scraps you have and just practice cutting....as to looks ur going to need to score to -da edge-

Edited July 24, 2023 by mobiledynamics

[Dano]

That's a good question....I never measure it. I would guess about 10ml in 30oz of water. I only use alcohol to wipe the surface. For me it just burns the glue. I do use a second bottle of straight water to tack the edges.

 

For cutting I use NT stainless blades. Just lightly glide the blade on the surface with enough pressure to hear the film squeek. If you press too hard you will feel the headlight plastic grind under your blade.

[conandrum]

3 hours ago, mobiledynamics said:

Are you using the headlight film (which is thicker) than the film for paint (thinner)....

I mention thicker...as the thicker ones tend to want to unwrap from the tuck if not tacked on tight due to thick film-curve...

Good luck either way. If you pop the hood, looks like you have plenty of space to wrap/tuck the top.

 

The sides or bottom of the headlight.......eh, maybe grabs some scraps you have and just practice cutting....as to looks ur going to need to score to -da edge-

Exactly the same one as shown in the last video above.

I think he just cut it 1mm further out from the edge. Isn't that enough tuck?

I am gonna need the luck )) Thanks

Edited July 25, 2023 by conandrum

[mobiledynamics]

You have plenty of room to wrap the top headlight....lift the hood as there is plenty of surface to wrap.

 

Not a pro....just have last 5 cars fully wrapped and prior have had the front clip/headlights/sills done so I know PPF...

 

Scoring it...eh, I'll let the pro's chime is. It's all about muscle memory feel ......and the material is thick. 

IME it takes a skilled craftsman to know when to stretch, when to re-lief, etc as getting those corners to stick is an art in itself. FILM will shift over the course of 30-60 days so things that look like they are sticking may lift sometime during that period was the film moves a little bit...

 

If I was thinking long term, I'd still do the 2K and then wrap 

 

 

Edited July 25, 2023 by mobiledynamics

[PRatx]

the marks are on outside of the film , the clear top layer , from rubbing ( in the box , or where was stored)