minty

On 1/25/2020 at 7:02 PM, EndlessProtectiveSolution said:

I typically do a hybrid bulk kit, to save film.  Smarter way to save $$ and cut film waste. I would load up Premium Shield Software, and highlight the points on the pattern I want to extend, giving me the ability to wrap and tuck where i want.  

^^ What he said ^^ you get the best of both worlds then, less wastage, easier to apply and still able to wrap whatever edges you see fit.

Steve

On 12/21/2019 at 12:01 PM, PerfectCut said:

I would like to know, too

That is a digitising tablet made by GTCO CalComp.

https://www.gtcocalcomp.com/large-format-digitizers/#!/db-target

And it is ppf they are using, do as @XPEL Jeff says. 

Or if it is, as you say, a one off and you don't anticipate making any more templates, the much cheaper way would be to use application paper over the panel to be templated then transfer to the ppf and trim from there, much like a dressmaking pattern.

Steve

@ElementShield I used the same slip and flush as I would on cars.

Steve

What are you actually looking for? why aren't you interested in pre cuts and what are you looking to gain out of bulking it?

I have covered 4 round marble tables and they are holding fine, been a few years now.

Steve

Personally I can't really see a reason to go for a cheaper film. Most of the cost is in the installation and going for a cheaper film will only save a few £ or $ unless you let it eat into your labour charge and why would you want to do that?

Having had a quick look at the Vivvid ppf it looks like it's a wet install the same as Suntek.

Steve

Too many variables to give an accurate answer. What coating, how well the car was prepped fist, where all the curing conditions for the coating met etc. In the long run though I will offer no warranty if covering a coating. And to be honest you would be wasting your coating to do so. A bit like painting the walls before plastering.

Steve

Having looked into this myself as I understand it the software simulates the stretch after you have entered the parameters of the material being stretched. But happy to be corrected.

Steve 

Got to love matte paint...🙈

Personally I would start by tacking at 4 and concentrate the majority of the stretch around 3&5 with a bit of stretch around 2 and finally pinning at 1. Make sure you are fitting in a warm environment and if needed use a bit of warm water in your slip and flush to help. Finally use a hard card wrapped in paper towel to squeegee any fingers down.

I would be looking for different brands, all the top films offer a range of sizes or their own slitting services. What brands are you using?

Steve

I once tried curing the ppf in direct sunlight, won't be doing it again, any fluid bubbles can boil and leave a mark. My advice would be to let it cure naturally in a warm environment.

Steve

On 11/1/2018 at 3:51 AM, Aden said:

12 inches bigger than the previous largest roll yet 8 inches too short for a viper hood, riperino 

Some people are never happy...

I won't fit on anything less than 7 clear days after it comes out of the oven and been checked. I have had film bubble on a 5 day old paint job and luckily it left the paint behind when it was removed. The solvent smell was very strong as well as it would be and proved that it wasn't a bad install on my part. I have also lifted paint on a Lotus when the paint shop told me the car had been painted for over a week but when I spoke to the painter he said it had only come out a few days ago. The car had to go back in for a repaint delaying the return to the customer massively more than the extra few days the should have waited and I charged them for two installs. I still work for the paint shop but they have learn't their lesson.

Steve

I do a dry application on thin (maybe 15-20 mm max) pieces. I have also fitted ppf to the sat nav screen on an Audi...once... it buggered the screen up and cost the customer £1800 for a replacement. Fortunately he took the hit as I had pre warned him and he watched me install with minimal water.  Amazingly this was on a convertible and it makes you wonder what would happen if it got caught in a rainstorm with the roof down. Personally the risk vs reward is too great, there is so much to potentially go wrong there, unless you get the dealership to remove the trims for you. 

Steve

Me too @BigRuski if you are listening.

Got to love Google translate...

Personally I would and have followed @JoshVette's directions. It's a risk verses reward scenario. As your customer has said "where possible" I would use that as your reason not to.

Steve 

Some times when you have designed a part you will find it ends up slightly too wide for a given film and what has happened in the past is the part has been "adjusted" to fit a particular width of film. So say a bumper when templated measures 25" top to bottom in the past it would have been manipulated to fit on the 24" film as most people only had 24" plotters. As time has gone on more installers have bought into the larger plotters and film widths have increased as well but the temptation is still there to make it fit thereby saving on wastage.

Steve 

Unless you are in the UK.

All depends on the car and how many installers are on the case. Usually if there is a badge in the middle then I would start from there, other times I will start from underneath a headlight and work left and right or even a wheel arch and go coast to coast. I guess what I am saying is there are no hard and fast rules. 

Steve

It's very difficult if not impossible to squeegee all the fluid out and I have found bubbles forming after a period of time. The only thing I can put that down to is any excess fluid will find it's own way to the weakest point of adhesion. Obviously it's preferable for this not to happen but I have found that fluid will dissipate over a few days if left alone but as has been said, best practice is to check and double check a panel before moving on to the next. If you try to squeegee a bubble after the film has started to cure though you can leave 'snail trails' in the film that won't go away. I would never leave a car in the sun to force dry the film as on a hot day it can actually boil the fluid and leave a vapor bubble that will never go of it's own accord and can leave a ring when you release it with a needle.

Steve

That's when you get the call saying " the film has all bubbled up..."

As bonnets go, this one was interesting...Never be afraid of doing it wrong, you will learn more by your mistakes than your successes. 

Steve