Tintguy1980

Any impact from polishing, if the mar responds to polishing, would result in no or little visible trace. Anyone experienced in buffing glass will likely say, no guarantees; unless they've experienced the same mar on glass.

I use(d) these that are readily available through grocery stores; on installs that should not have a blade running across their surface. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Scotch-Brite-3PK-Dobie-Cleaning-Pad/580762256?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101033794&gclsrc=aw.ds&&adid=22222222227580762256_101033794_160178497084_20981201920&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=689850595863&wl4=pla-2274697737319&wl5=9008682&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=255470249&wl11=online&wl12=580762256_101033794&veh=sem&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyo335LbOhQMVo0tHAR1HpQC8EAQYASABEgKydfD_BwE Need to know whether the boat has glass or does it have plexiglass (acrylic) or Lexan (poly-carbonate). Glass is not worrisome, the other two are. Plexi will blister from out-gassing in no time at all, whereby, Poly-carbonate is a crap shoot as to when and how serious, if any, blistering of film occurs. Both Plexi and Ploy may also be difficult to remove, if the need arises down the road mainly getting the adhesive of without damaging the surface. Both should not be warranted given the aforementioned potentials and these conditions should be discussed with the owner.

The first picture appears to be similar to a 25%. Front of house? The second picture with 2 shades pulled down should get 25%, especially if facing West. The third picture should get 45%. The compromise is lesser privacy, while providing greater incoming light (already shaded from patio overhead). Small samples provided by the dealer don't give you a good sense of what the film will look like once installed. There is too much light streaming in around the sample (when taped to the glass), making the film look darker than what it will look like installed. The best and most accurate way to see what it will look like, viewing out, is to use the sample as quasi-sunglasses by wrapping it around your face and eyes (to the point of no light leaking in). Now, look toward the window(s). Viola`, there's your tinted view. As to the tax benefit, do check with a pro tax person just in case they no longer have that program. I've been retired for almost a decade now.

A simple google ask tells you it residential installs of film are not taxable; labor and material. If they are collecting tax, they're in for a world of hurt, if discovered. There's also this: For solar films, the tax advantages are even greater. The US Department of Energy allows you to claim up to 30% of the cost, including installation fees. You may want to ask your tax prep person about this. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- My choice of the three films for the home would be Madico. Why? They've had a solid product for as long as my career goes back. They are also one of the founders of the window film industry (mid to late 50's last century, along with 3M and LLumar), whereby the other two came along years later; SolarGard then Suntek, respectively. I used to sell SolarGard and got away from them when they had a rash of failures in the late 80's, moving to LLumar/Vista. Suntek is owned by Eastman Chemical, who also owns many other brands and is known for producing components other brands will buy and use. Suntek was bought by Eastman about ten years ago to work as an entry level product (lower cost product) in comparison to their LLumar, Vista, Huper Optiks, V-kool brands for residential/commercial glass. Eastman Chem is the fifth generation owner of the film plant in Henry Co. Virginia.

Little tough and time consuming to walk someone through the process using words. See if either of these will help:

This day and age we have armchair rookie experts calling out true to form experts with decades of experience. Case in point our own Dr. Fauci with a career spanning 50 yrs studying virus and bacteria getting trounced during the Covid crisis.

Correct; using 15 will darken, so will 25, just not as much. Experiment before laying $$ down on film by watching TV with sunglasses, especially when the sun is bombarding those windows straight on. Does it make watching TV more comfortable? In other words, does it cut the glare to your satisfaction? Use old-fashion dark sunglasses, not some special ops type advertised on TV and don't use polarized. Or, take a film sample and wrap it around your face, covering your eyes as faux glasses and watch TV in the worst of the sun shining through. Pick the sample that satisfies your comfort level. If it satisfies your comfort level, then either of the two would suffice. Also, compare pricing between LLumar Dr 15/25 and the 3M NV. They are said to be very close in appearance. I don't recall which has the edge over the other in terms of total solar energy rejection. If neither film works, you are facing the prospect of sun-blocking shades, blind or drapes; motorized of course. Good luck.

It takes anywhere from two weeks to 4 weeks for the moisture to dry out from under the film. Dot matrix material height off the glass varies from glass manufacturer to glass manufacturer. The film is suspended off the glass between each dot and is not flimsy/flexible enough to be pressed to stay in between these dots. Take a look at other cars around parking lots and you will see a mixed appearance from car to car; some will adhere nicely in the dot region some will not. Again, it depends on the material height of the dot matrix. Throwing some pictures up on this site showing precisely what you see would be more helpful than an article. Going with another film doesn't translate into improved conditions since they are made with similar thickness. Visors are regulated by state law and the vast majority of States restrict them to no more than six inches. And lastly, you are not alone; every car owner believes window tint can be applied so perfect that it would be perceived to be actual glass and not an aftermarket product.

Don't know what I was thinking when saying, 1/16-1/8th in the above comment; it wouldn't be wide enough because of sticker thickness creating a linear air pocket at its edge. One shot is all you would have, if you were to dry laminate it between two layers of PPF or clear vinyl. Although, PPF might be more pliable enough to hide the linear air pocket created at the sticker edge from its material thickness. You know, the good ole fingernail press together trick.

Got access to PPF? Consider it. Dry laminate an oversized piece of PPF to the back of the face-down sticker on a clean glass surface, then, cut the PPF slightly larger than the sticker. This will give you a sticky 1/16-1/8th border that will hold it flat. Remove from glass surface and install to tinted windscreen. Yeah, it may or may not remove the SRC when changing given the small amount of adhesive involved. If it does, it'll only happen once. At least you will know the exact placement next year.

Check out this recent discussion further down the feed:

You may already know these and I'm not here to insult your knowledge base. I just hope it's useful info. Some of it may sound redundant, but a tinter quickly learns, contaminates are the enemy and requires the same kind of focus on surrounding detail(s) similar to someone riding a motorcycle in heavy car/truck traffic. Frankenstein method of install: Mist and squeegee clean peel board surface before placing the pattern onto it. How you do that may or may not be the process mentioned in the next paragraph. Ensure the back of the pattern has been rinsed clean, eliminating any contaminates picked up from auto glass surface when hand cutting or a plotter run, before placing on peel board surface. This is best done by laying the pattern liner down on peel board, smoothing flat, light mist and squeegee clean. Carefully fold pattern without creasing, lift away holding with one hand, while the other mists peel board surface and squeegees it clean and now lay pattern on cleaned surface. Lightly mist the headliner and seats just before entering. Lightly mist the film's liner surface before peeling. Rinse both hands, forearms, and all ten fingers before lifting pattern from peel board. ```````````````````````````````````````` Reverse-roll install: Follow above when and where necessary. When the pattern is staged flat on the cleaned peel board (to lift liner for wetting adhesive), mist the liner surface, carefully squeegee dry including surrounding glass surface, rinse hands/fingers/forearms before lifting liner to wet adhesive, wet adhesive/replace liner/roll up and install. Additional note: Be mindful of the type of fabric your clothing is made of, it will hold contaminates as well. Dry air causes static that can pull particles to your clothing. Use a tight-fit hat or bandana, if you know your hair is flaky. It's definitely a journey. 🙏 Namaste.

Here are two links to tinting tool suppliers in the US: https://44tools.com/ https://expresswindowfilms.com/ You can either order and have it shipped to St. Pete or you can order and have it shipped to your son in Orlando. If you ship to Orlando, just make sure the tool(s) will not be confiscated by airport security. You can put them into checked baggage that will not travel in the main cabin of the plane.

Best time for outdoor mobile tinting is right after the sun comes up, no wind. and a heavy dew (or rain) covering everything.

Here, I'll simplify ... depends on your skill level. And, I answered by saying 1.5 mil is thinner. I'm now adding 1.5 mil is not as heavy as a 2-mil. The thinner the film the more difficult it is to handle and squeegee down without heavy-handing it. So, did you actually buy a 1 mil product labeled as a 2 mil? Meaning you got snookered? Maybe somebody else can speak more clearly.