DynamicATL

Global, express window films

I didn't know Suntek denied anyone

There's an old adage that says "quote the highest price possible while keeping a straight face", and if they don't flinch, add "plus installation".

DAP from Xpel. It is the most expensive software because it is the best. Might not be worth it unless you're also doing PPF but every tint pattern I tested on it was 100%.

Forgot to add an example of pricing not adding up. Crystalline costs more from the manufacturer than XR Plus. Crystalline also blocks more IR heat than XR Plus. However, there is a shop is my state that charges $100 on average more for XR Plus than we do for Crystalline. Why? No other reason besides they feel they can get that price.

Forgot to add an example of pricing not adding up. Crystalline costs more from the manufacturer than XR Plus. Crystalline also blocks more IR heat than XR Plus. However, there is a shop is my state that charges $100 on average more for XR Plus than we do for Crystalline. Why? No other reason besides they feel they can get that price.

Honestly, the price increase between films will not add up; too many variables vary from shop to shop. The film cost is where it starts and can be vastly different between films. 3M, for example, Crystalline is 2.3x the cost of their Ceramic IR, which is the next film down from Crystalline. Some films are harder to install, requiring more difficult techniques than the rest of the lineup, which increases the installation time. From there, the shop may set the price based on what they feel they can get for that film or a recommended price from the manufacturer. If there are other dealers in the area, they might set their prices to compete with them. We call other dealers every 6 months to see how their price compares to ours and may adjust ours if we are too low. If there are no other dealers in the area and the shop is carrying a known film, they may raise the price since you can't get it anywhere else. So say XR Plus is the more popular film; they will keep a high price on it since it is in demand but lower the other options to be more attractive to consumers to upsell them to the more expensive film. Lastly, manufacturer price increases can vary from film to film. XPEL raised their cost by 4% on all films, beginning in November. However, some manufacturers may increase one film by 2% but do another by 5%. Since different films use different materials, something in the more expensive film may have increased. That said, it will mostly come down to what the shop feels they will get for a particular film, so there is no way to calculate that.

Honestly, the price increase between films will not add up; too many variables vary from shop to shop. The film cost is where it starts and can be vastly different between films. 3M, for example, Crystalline is 2.3x the cost of their Ceramic IR, which is the next film down from Crystalline. Some films are harder to install, requiring more difficult techniques than the rest of the lineup, which increases the installation time. From there, the shop may set the price based on what they feel they can get for that film or a recommended price from the manufacturer. If there are other dealers in the area, they might set their prices to compete with them. We call other dealers every 6 months to see how their price compares to ours and may adjust ours if we are too low. If there are no other dealers in the area and the shop is carrying a known film, they may raise the price since you can't get it anywhere else. So say XR Plus is the more popular film; they will keep a high price on it since it is in demand but lower the other options to be more attractive to consumers to upsell them to the more expensive film. Lastly, manufacturer price increases can vary from film to film. XPEL raised their cost by 4% on all films, beginning in November. However, some manufacturers may increase one film by 2% but do another by 5%. Since different films use different materials, something in the more expensive film may have increased. That said, it will mostly come down to what the shop feels they will get for a particular film, so there is no way to calculate that.

Good questions here.
 
If a given mid grade film (materials) cost x, the ceramic can be close to 2x. If an installer bungles a piece of film the margins start to fall pretty quick. 
 
Ceramics in general are a much tougher product to install. These films are rigid and unforgiving and take alot more care in installing. They also tend to show any imperfections alot more clearly and can't be rushed.
 
The softer mid grade films are much more pliable, go in quicker and aren't as finicky.
 
When someone pays the premium for a top grade film they expect a top grade install which takes more time and often more materials to get it right. Service before and after the sale is also more demanding. People want and deserve a good explanation as to why 2x is reasonable. These things all add up to more time/ attention to detail. That's what you are paying for in the end.
 
I think you're on the right track looking at the xpel and would add 3m crystalline to your list. If you're not a brand junkie Global makes an excellent ceramic. It's usually carried by independent installers that don't want to play the corporate game. I've personally used it for years without any issues.

If I know the gaskets are going to be a problem for whatever reason, I'll take the door panel off and run the film well below where the edge may interact with the flap.

It is impossible to know, defrost lines can come off with any removal. Some are poorly attached, so they may look good to go but come right off. Doing the black bag removal method will be your best chance. To this day, we have never lost defrosters on a removal but we explain to all customers that it is possible.

Wow! Teslas often have dents on the rear doors that is caused by whatever machine they use for the lifting them. We know a guy that does paintless dent repair and half of his work is fixing just that.

Thank you 

About every dodge truck is warped in some way around the door handles. Can't unsee it once you notice it.
 
Don't even get me started about dirt/drips/runs/holidays in the paint...whooo boy.
 
Edit: That goes for nearly all the car company btw.

I know some pdr guys that used to go to different plants fixing dents on the assembly lines until they get the robots retooled/programmed. Saw some vids of them chasing the cars while fixing them as they moved down the line.
 
If people only knew that car manufacturing is just like building models at your kitchen table, only bigger and about the same quality.

Wow! Teslas often have dents on the rear doors that is caused by whatever machine they use for the lifting them. We know a guy that does paintless dent repair and half of his work is fixing just that.

I saw some crazy stuff when I was preloading dealership inventory.
 
Just last week a new $80k Mega Cab came in that looked like the whole left side had been repaired. Definitely not 'factory' alignment on the sheet metal. Less than 100mi on it and just delivered to the lot a few days prior. I was told by a transport shipper that it doesn't count as damage as long as it's still in the manufacturers custody.

I agree with @TNTLady about both. Your glass has a ceramic border around it. If the film is all the way past the border, then technically it is fine since no light is shining through and the gap can't be seen from the outside. Now, would that bother me seeing half of it is tucked behind the panel and other half is not, absolutely. So I would ask them to see if they can redo it going behind the panel. I would if it was my vehicle. Is it being picky? Yes. The other photo is definitely not a burn mark, something was pushed into the panel caused that. This could of been caused by the tinter but it also could have been there previously. I would ask them about it and see if they took any photos of it before starting on the vehicle. We walk all vehicles doing this because there is always more damage than the customer realizes. Anytime people buy new cars, they feel they are perfect or should be but generally that is not the case. Before you ever signed a line, that car has been moved around the country, loaded/unloaded from trucks, employees jumping in and out. So most new cars will have minor issues by the time they arrive at the dealership. Teslas are notorious for this, I've seen a new Infiniti Q50 with less than 10 miles on it with scratches all over, I even saw a $500k Ferrari with burn marks inside the headlight without ever seeing a mile on the road. The tinter will most likely say they didn't cause the damage and they could be 100% correct or 100% wrong. No way to know for sure.

I agree with @TNTLady about both. Your glass has a ceramic border around it. If the film is all the way past the border, then technically it is fine since no light is shining through and the gap can't be seen from the outside. Now, would that bother me seeing half of it is tucked behind the panel and other half is not, absolutely. So I would ask them to see if they can redo it going behind the panel. I would if it was my vehicle. Is it being picky? Yes. The other photo is definitely not a burn mark, something was pushed into the panel caused that. This could of been caused by the tinter but it also could have been there previously. I would ask them about it and see if they took any photos of it before starting on the vehicle. We walk all vehicles doing this because there is always more damage than the customer realizes. Anytime people buy new cars, they feel they are perfect or should be but generally that is not the case. Before you ever signed a line, that car has been moved around the country, loaded/unloaded from trucks, employees jumping in and out. So most new cars will have minor issues by the time they arrive at the dealership. Teslas are notorious for this, I've seen a new Infiniti Q50 with less than 10 miles on it with scratches all over, I even saw a $500k Ferrari with burn marks inside the headlight without ever seeing a mile on the road. The tinter will most likely say they didn't cause the damage and they could be 100% correct or 100% wrong. No way to know for sure.

Yes, too picky on the fact that the film is not coving the ceramic coating all the way on the rear hatch. The thing is is there is no daylight. I for one do not like to lift the film and move it once it has been laid on the glass of a window with defrosters because it will leave ghost lines in the glue on the film. 
 
Now the door panel is not melted but appears to have had something put pressure on it an cause a dent. Could possibly come out after the sun warms it up for a few days and cause the contraction and expansion?? Or not. Did the tinter do it or was it already there? Who knows.

Legal which is 35% in my state, I gave up going darker after about 12 tickets. I do tint the windshield to help give it an overall slightly darker look but not a huge difference. 15% will probably work for you, anything lighter than that won't offer much privacy.

Yes, reflection of your interior. Once again, your stock glass without window tint also has this reflection, just not as noticeable. It is completely normal and will be like that on all films. The darker you go, the more noticeable it becomes. You can go lighter to reduce it slightly or remove the tint all together.

Nice, Legal tint is 70% in my state. Been pulled over few times. County and city officers always been cool. These guys just compliment my setup and send me on my way. Only been ticketed by state guys. Also considering doing 50% tint on my windshield. 

It is the reflection of your interior on the dark surface. Your stock glass also has this reflection, it is just not as noticeable since it is lighter/clearer. As you darken the window, this increases the amount you see. Your inability to see out is not just the reflection, it is the 5% darkness. I would suggest redoing it in 15% which still offers good privacy but will have much better clarity when compared to the 5%. Keep in mind, there will still be some reflection, just not as bad.

What you're seeing is plenty of glare bouncing back off of a darkened, smooth/glossy surface. Dimming your dash lights at night might help some. During the day not much you can do except remove it and replace with a lighter shade. 
 
I spend more time talking people out of dark installs for this and other reasons. It's generally not safe. Unless you're running surveillance, work in the oil fields all day with no shade or have some other legit need for it as a utility I really don't recommend it. 
 
I would get it stripped.