FondyTints

Whenever I get a call and there’s that much water left I know it’s time to change my squeegee blade but that doesn’t mean it won’t be ok. Tinter probably uses a softer type of blade for back glasses. That’s what I do

3 hours ago, CnCCustoms said:

Just can’t bring myself to pay for one

I probably wouldn’t have but got a sweet deal from a guy that tried it for a year and gave up. It saves my finger tips from being raw from holding the knife all day and keeps my shoulder from a lot of aches n pains from being held up so much. Worth staying out of the dr’s office to me...although I don’t go unless an artery is cut or a bone broken

Had a set screw on a brand new Ford truck yesterday and I about fell off the sidestep I was so shocked. Nice surprise 

When the plotter is your friend you are a plotter’s accomplice

Any advice on which one I should buy from or if it’s all the same? Thanks again 

Am I getting the same film if I order from global or express?

Also which line of theirs would be closest to Suntek HP? Thanks

Third picture has the first part of your headache. First one has two of the 3 screws. The next one is easy enough to find. My advice if you’re not familiar with this type of monster is to tell the customer to take the car to BMW and have them remove the door windows and bring em to you like that. Whoever said it was a piece of cake I salute you for your bravery and I will contact you next time one of these shows up so I can fly you up to Wisconsin to tackle it. I’ll do the back and you can hit the doors....2 guys from the body shop next door helped me so yeah it was not as bad as it could’ve been

You need one of these. Ventless. 99% efficient. This one is a 100,000 btu that heated a 20x40 shop with 20' ceilings in Wisconsin for full time tinting. I used lp but they set them up for natural gas too. About $600 out the door at Northern tool. You'll need to hook up a thermostat too. I moved shops and don't need it at the new one so I'm taking this one to the garage. Used mine for two winters without a single issue

On 10/27/2017 at 7:12 AM, Stewy said:

I saw someone post this on Facebook and I needed to see how he does a BG in 1 min. He had like 3 inch to shrink on the bottom and about 4 inch on top. Of course he can shrink it in 1 min. I can judge a shrink just by looking at it and that shrink looks easy. Am i trippin? 

 

Stretching the film is cake when the glass is off the car. Can't barely be done when the body of the car is there. I like the method but we tint windows on cars usually

2018 Maxima 

I don't think a little alcohol in the solution is going to change results a ton but worth a shot...maybe if you have an extra sprayer with more alcohol than normal in it and lift the edges that are trouble and spray under there. 

A little alcohol may also be of benefit after a stressful day....moderation

2 hours ago, wade_660 said:

Whoa. Every time a see a huge motor home windshield I️ wonder if anyone has ever tackled tinting one.

Yep did one quite some years back for the man that lived next to the shop where I was. I think it was about 18" from the top. Still looked small on that aquarium face

I thought that too but the thought was there n gone. She's going to the dealership for full ditz exposure 

Right about 80" long brow. I also had the joy of tinting the top 5" of his front doors which had triangles to go with. 

Happy Peterbilts are common in these parts

wouldve put a finished pic up but I only take pictures if they're clean

Anyone ever have somebody ask about the rear lights after tinting fronts only?

Someone asked me if I disconnected them while tinting it and I about fainted wondering if they got sensors or something electrical for the rear lights hiding in the front door 

As you can tell by the question I don't pull panels

thanks....go tint now

Yeah Overhead may have been a better word to use 

33% is fair but not above average

when I started I made $50 per car

$25 for two fronts and $15 for a brow

20% is basically a kick to the groin

13 years later and I work for myself

i won't tell you what I get now but it's about 70% because the rest goes back into inventory 

with 3 years of experience someone is going to make a lot of money off of you if you let them

On 6/10/2017 at 0:22 PM, Aesop_Rock said:

Just got into a shouting match with the rear plastic tray of a 2017 Jetta. Does anyone know how to take it off? That third break light is annoying because the tray covers it and is one piece. Bulldozer and Titan are not doing the best job getting back there to lay down film either.

 

Any help, especially detailed lol, would be appreciated.

 

-Paul

I removed one of these the other day.

step 1: open trunk and unplug brake light and release seats to put them down

step 2: back deck clip removal

find the 3 rubber bump absorber buttons behind where the seat was and pull them out if possible or they may need to be turned out counterclockwise part of the way. (They are threaded)

Step 3: clip removal

behind the part of the seat that is remaining up when you have the seats down on the left and right side there are two more push clips or whatever they're called that need to be removed with a small panel tool or flat screwdriver. The center needs to be popped halfway out then the rest of the clip comes out. Try not to drop them or they will be lost behind the cushion and not worth the effort of getting back

step 4: side panel removal.

get your fingers behind the panels that are on each side of the back glass and pulling towards the center you will release two clips and when they come free you will begin to pull towards the front of the car while being careful to note how the bottom front comes apart from the back deck

step 5: removing back deck

there are 3 clips coming down from the back deck that come through the metal. These need to be squeezed by a pliers enough to be able to pull up on the back deck so the clips cannot reattach themselves and cause you to need to pinch them free again. So while punching each one pick up on the back deck and hold it up and away. Once these are free you will simply pull the deck towards the front of the car with enough strength to get it out. 

Replacement is is as easy as your recollection of how you removed it all

be careful for the cable that runs sideways along the top of the metal deck when putting the back deck in....it wants to snag one of the guide clips that holds it in right by the brake light area

now go TINT

Oh I just saw someone else left their instructions 

Pull up on the middle piece by getting a tool under it enough to get your fingers behind the plastic

the center piece should come off pretty much straight towards you

once that's off you can get your fingers under the side panels pretty easily and just pull toward the center of the window

should come right off

reinstall is tricky but making sure the top (top when the hatch is open) alignment tab is going in straight will get you onto the clips lining up 

its a really easy removal and helps tons for installing the film because you're right they are tight

Bull dozer did the trick for me. 

Also yes, I flipped the passenger latch and the window did not go up. So then I Unflipped it, closed the door, and flipped it again and it worked thankfully.