ErieTint

I do my cleaning solution with a razor and scrubby then squeegee it off with my Unger black.

Then I do a second pass with my slip solution and squeegee it off with a Fusion Black Turbo.

I use my Gold EZ Reach to make a pass over side seals in both cases.

May not be perfect but seems to work pretty well for me.

Couple days late sharing this but better late than never right?

Shoutout to @OverLord for the help. Always nice to learn from someone with a real knowledge of the trade. 

On July 3, 2019 at 9:44 PM, RS3FTW said:

 

Thanks! I've had two cars with Llumar's Pinnacle and liked it a lot. I'll have to check out the IRX! Hopefully the shop that I'm looking at tinting the car will have it.

Either LLumar's new IRX or their FormulaOne Stratos, they are very similar. Those are their two top performing automotive films currently.

Wanting to try some of this myself. Talked to one of the trainers, he spoke highly of it and says it should be the new top dog.

Considering my rep doesn't even bother to talk to me, I'll have to call Support and get pricing and see about getting a roll in for my truck.

Very one sided reply here because we are a LLumar shop and do not have any experience with Autobahn or Huper Optik.

We stock CTX and the customers that have chosen it have been pleased with its heat rejection performance.

LLumar did just introduce a new line that has higher IR rejection numbers called IRX, maybe that would be something to look into.

On May 7, 2019 at 1:40 PM, highplains said:

If you're being paid hourly employers are legally required to pay overtime for anything over 40 hours in a work week.

But if he is being contracted as a 1099 employee, does that law still apply?

I've got a 2006 GMC Sierra crew cab that's got who knows what in 35% over everything. It was done a week after I bought the truck in 2010, well before I started tinting.

The woman has a 2006 Pontiac Torrent that has 50% over everything and had a sun strip that was so purple I had to pull it.

They will both be getting either LLumar CTX or XPEL Prime XR+ over everything. Likely 50% windshields, 35% fronts and 5% over factory rears.

Problem is, our vehicles don't put any cash in my pocket so I'm dragging my feet on doing either of them. She's antsy, I'm not. 😂

This was how my Monday started..... 1995 Corvette

1 minute ago, OverLord said:

I've used it more than i ever used my gasket wizards and I've had them 15 years 

Might actually be worth looking into then... 🤔

1 minute ago, OverLord said:

I have one I use it on anything that requires full panel removal

I want to get one. Just don't want to spend the $80+ and shelf it...

1 minute ago, OverLord said:

Have you used the full version of it?

I have not yet. Well, not really. I did try to bottom load a demo door in their booth at SEMA with Dean coaching me.

Tried their software, like it. Haven't tried their film or any tools other than SEMA. Would love to stop pulling doors apart to get seals out if this thing works the magic it claims to work.

So that's what you were talking about on the phone. 😂

On April 5, 2019 at 9:48 AM, Tint Slayer said:

If i can't just pull back the top and pull the seal out easily, i use the Xpel EZ-Tint tool to bottom load. I used to use the Gasket Wizard every now and then but one day i tried this, another new tool, and actually liked it instead of just being distracted by it (you know the deal with that lol). They should make a small, mini or short 6" version with more bend for tuckers because the notch on the ends open the vertical rubber pretty decent when needed.  

They do make a mini version. It may not be to market yet but I have seen videos of it on FB from Dean Mitchell, he is their pattern guru.

I've got a couple rolls of ATC right now that seem to have more curl than normal to them.

I plotter cut so I notice it after I cut film off and the plotter does it little reset routine.

Working through it as I just considered it isolated incident. 🤷‍♂️

I've done windshields in 50 dyed and 90 ceramic. I have a friend asking me to do his in 35 and I'm dragging my feet.

I like the added glare reduction and the touch of color you get from 50 but would rather have the added heat rejection with the ceramic film.

Really it depends on what you are after. Is it a form or a function thing?

14 hours ago, highplains said:

Those are core impressions, I usually throw out the last 1-2 feet of film due to that. 

Figured there was a term for it.

I hate throwing film away but that's better than firing up the steamer and fixing windows.

I just did one the other day where I got a window out of the last little bit on the roll and it was no good.

Everything laid out find and looked mostly ok except the last 5"-6" of the window that was at the end of the roll had what looked like waves in it.

I've never gotten that close to the end of a roll before but I'm guessing that was the issue.

50 minutes ago, OverLord said:

Not as easy as  a C5 a lot easier than a C6 if you can do either one of these you'll be fine 

I've only done an '18 Z06 at this point... #Nervous

38 minutes ago, tint guy said:

 

 

Have to leave long and pull stretch, just slow shrink it

 

 

I'm hoping to find the time to do some research this week. Maybe find a video or seven. 

15 hours ago, tint guy said:

This was an ‘84 corvette

I've got a '95 coming next week, same rear glass.

Any pointers? Not gonna lie, I'm kinda nervous.

Hey @tint guy is that a C4 hatch?

I have one of those coming next weekend. Its mine for a couple days as I told the customer it may take that long. 

3 hours ago, jh812 said:

It means it's a one piece seal all the way around the window, similar to some of the 2k era GMC Sierra. They leave as a two piece when I'm done

 

How/where do you slice them? Just where the bottoms meet the sides?

Might have to make this mod on the Silverado/Sierra trucks that I see too...

On March 6, 2018 at 9:43 PM, Ryker said:

Did one today.  Popped the top and cut the sweep loose.  Easy Peasey

On October 15, 2018 at 8:12 PM, Midtown Houston said:

This and it is easy

I got a call about one of these today.

Gonna try to squeeze him in this weekend.

I'm a bottom loader so what do you guys mean by this? The sweep can be removed but has to be cut?

23 hours ago, Mr paladin said:

Other than a handful of Trucks and Suv's I shrink everything I would rather deal with fingers on the outside than the inside.

Basically just a "snap shrink" on the bottoms? I keep saying I need to learn how to do that on my peel board so I can at least do that to keep the bottoms from popping up.

I bottom load everything that I can so I usually only shrink when absolutely necessary.

On 2/25/2019 at 11:59 AM, jh812 said:

no worries homie I like to keep people humble

 

Trust me I don't do a ton but if I know it's gonna fight me my ass is shrinking it.

Tinted a 2003 Chrysler 300M on Friday. Back doors there needed at least a bottom snap.

Pissed me off but got her done.