MR ANDERSON

I've only done 1 RX back glass, we ended up taking the spoiler lip off in order to shape the film. Once you take off the interior panel there's 5-6 bolts that hold it in place along with a strip of double sided tape. 

I haven't had this problem but if you apply gentle heat you might be ale to smooth it out with your thumb. That sometimes works for smeared glue with xpel. My only other suggestion would be to be very careful and only lay the film once and don't move it once it's down.

seems like a cool product, if it's legal i know a lot of customers who would love to have windshield protection

On 2/13/2021 at 5:13 PM, Cooltimes said:

Does anyone know how much does xpel pay per warranty for their car window film.

Is their a certain amount per window and a max per car.

what was the defect? I've never tried to warranty something through the manufacturer. seems like it would be tough to prove that it wasn't installer error.

I'd say it looks like the window seal is broken. at that age its likely that the seal would have failed regardless of tint being applied. 

waterspots are generally on the outside and you'd need acid rain remover to get them off. it would help if you post a couple pictures so we can see what you're dealing with.

photo 1 is a misalignment of the pattern and should be replaced. as far as the gap you see on the top edge of the windows that is normal, if the film went to the very edge then it would peel as you roll the window up. 

that's a horrible installation. none of that would have been allowed to leave my shop. honestly i would be hesitant to let them try again since they could cut into the paint or otherwise damage the vehicle. my vote is to take it back and have them refund you as well as remove the film. then take it to another shop to get the film replaced.

my plotter seems to have increasingly common errors where the blade will cut a zigzag across the pattern or it will just start feeding out tint endlessly until it is manually stopped. do any of you have these issues?

maybe try to get some smaller jobs, like residential jobs where you'd be able to finish the job with what film you have remaining. it would depend on how much you have left on the roll. i bet you could find some customers that would just want 1-2 windows done in a home office or bedroom where the light shines in. I don't do flat glass but that's just my 2 cents on what i would try to do.

I'd say offer a mid range tint and get the ball rolling. Your customers will tell you if they want a more premium film or if they want a cheaper price and you can order accordingly.

how do y'all have your shops setup? We're looking into updating our setup and getting some new peel boards so its a natural time to look into different options. 

i use 2-3 pumps per liter of water, but it varies depending on all kinds of stuff. if the film is sticking too hard ill add a little soap and if its not sticking ill dilute with more water. 

thanks, any advise for getting it calibrated properly. this blade and strip have lasted a year with every day use. im not sure if that's good or not.

our plotter is having issues and i think it's caused by the strip wearing out. it will cut through in some areas and not even score the film in others. ive ordered a new strip and blade but im here to see if yall have any temporary solutions or ideas if it could be something else wrong with the machine.

not all 3m tint has the watermark, it would be tough to prove what it is one way or the other. it's common for the back glass to dry faster then doors because it gets more sun exposure.

try scrubbing it with your glue remover and see if that helps. there could be rain-x or anti fog on it

make sure you're consistent with your quality control expectations. 

it depends on the market and experience level of the installer but you also need to factor in if your installer buys their own tools and chemicals or if you supply them. who pays for vehicle damages? do you pay them for fixing comebacks? do they get pto and benefits? do you have a plotter or do they have to hand cut everything?

my guys make around $40-70 per car,

• their patterns are pre-cut for them on a plotter
• we supply all their tools and chemicals
• they get pto and benefits
• they came in with no experience and learned on our dime

THAT'S AWESOME!!!

we supply masks and gloves to our employees and customers. we've also been promoting social distancing. a couple of our employees have gotten sick but not many.

i'm sure someone could create a model that would compare the surface area and solar angle to predict the the change in tser, but since you've already decided that it needs to go, why worry about it? you could guess and say ~30%, but again it gets more complicated depending on which direction you park. id expect better performance if you park facing north. you could also put sun reflectors in your window when you park to keep it cooler for when you get back. 

hope that helps a bit.

look up "tint stuff" on youtube. its helpful to see what others are doing

if it's curling up that sounds like too much heat on the edge

6 hours ago, Jerry Hernandez said:

Sounds like a Lexus design failure. I don't see how it's up to the shop to take responsibility for a poor design.  Here in the desert, sand gets in between the gasket and glass and scratches it, that is going to happen much faster with a soft coat even if it's on the inside.

i'd agree that its a weakness to the car but as long as you know about it (which you do now) its easy to avoid damaging it. they are easy windows to tint and strip. that's like saying rear defroster lines are a poor design because they can be damaged by a razor blade. its not a poor design, its a feature.