Dano

Welcome to the forum!

I would recommend Global non-cap ppf and get a second bottle with plain water only to flush the edges for better adhesion.

If you're leaving water behind try using a different squeegee. I prefer a dark yellow turbo from Interwest.

Instead of heating I think you should be streaching the film into place to pull the fingers out.

Y'all try not to get too excited, but this is the four cylinder Suzuki version of the Geo Metro with a whopping 1.3L. No ac or power steering but getting 45mpg on 13" rims. 

I would go at it with a few chemicals to see what might work and definitely have some steel wool like @Tintguy1980 mentioned. Wouldn't hurt to tape off the edge of the frame and use some plastic sheeting to keep the chems off the paint and rince everything after.

Chems I might try:

1. 3m adhesive remover in the red can (not aerosol)

2. Spot Shot

3. Rapid Remover

Or maybe just a tablespoon of soap in a bottle of water and a scraper blade.

Alcohol won't always do it depending on what the adhesive is polar towards, and can sometimes seem to harden it.

If you are BLADING THE GLASS, make a conscious effort to ALWAYS HAVE ONE ARM BEHIND YOUR BACK.

Failure to do so can send you to the hospital quickly...this was a tough lesson that I and many others learned the hard way!!!

Dagumheehawthrillbillys!

HP20/10

Alligator console, five point seats, 37s on 24" rims, draft pipes...and on and on... I guess I didn't price it high enough to chase it away 

45 minutes ago, doctor4766 said:

they may not have noticed a defect in the glass prior to the application of film?

Especially aftermarket glass, but a lot of oem as well.

Who makes a film that doesn't have impressions from the core tension on the last few feet? 

If a defect is found in the middle of a roll the installer should have enough sence to not use it. 9/10 distributors would replace a defective roll without any hesitation.

Olfa has been terrible for years. Switched to NT a long time ago.

1. Try switching the output language from the machine. It's either set on HPGL or HPPL.

2. Check to see that you have the right driver.

3. You may need to run Windows XP.

4. Toss that whole rig in the garbage and find a used FC 8000-130 or 160.

The Graphtech plotters are all about the same from 7000 to 8600. I doubt that the machine was the problem If changing software fixed the issue. 

The answer is to not heat that area too much so that you leave some slack in the film for when you get it to the inside.

Also cut your pattern a little large so that you can trim a thread off the edges after shrinking to not have a furled edge.

After you do a few of those you'll figure out how much to leave/trim to not have any light gaps. Also I'll leave a hardcard wrapped in a microfiber in the bottom overnight to collect water and keep pressure on the film while it dries.

Sometimes you can take the top rail off the glass if the jackwagon boat builder didn't put too much pressure on the glass package when it was installed. If you pull the rail off of a tight package it's a pita to get back on, looking like it could crack the whole time. 

Congrats on getting it done. I've seen plenty that couldn't, which is why I price them like I do. 

Amazon

Global HP and Ceramic. Using it full time for seven years and not a single failure that wasn't my fault.

I start those at $750 and go up. 

Best advice is no cutting on the glass and white scrubbie only, no cleaning blades. That glass is super soft. You may want to use a film liner to make a template to cut your patterns. 

That looks like a mar on the surface, hard to see until the tint is installed due to adding contrast. Not likely that the installer is at fault. You might be able to polish some of that out. Use a professional glass polishing compound and maybe ask a car detailer to do it.

^^^ great list of good habits.

If your working on cars with rubber gaskets, roll down the windows first and spray them with SprayAway glass cleaner. Use a triangle card of some kind wrapped with a microfiber towel to scrub the dirt out and give it a couple squirts of water to flush it. Use the towel and triangle again when you're prepping the glass.

Don't forget to scrub the top edge of the glass.

Dry shrink. Going wet on big fingers puts alot of stress on the film. 

I've been using the dark yellow turbo.

Very cool. Any idea what year those were made in? 

Let's say you're charging $250 per vehicle. I might give a random customer a package price of $675 for doing three similar cars if all three are paid for and scheduled at the same time. 

I would offer a $25 discount to small time car dealers for single units if they pay when they pick it up. No discount if I have to wait 30 days.

For fleet and preloading inventory the numbers can vary depending on factors like, is it labor only, do they have a good space on site, overall volume, 30-45-60 day net, etc.

I wasn't impressed with anything I read on that site. Terribly vague on product info. 

Start charging for what you can do reliably and stand behind your final product. Also get whatever is the going market rate for your area. Discount nothing except multi car and fleet volume with a signed work order. MTRX has a good scheduling and billing app, expensive, but good.

Careful on the windshields, they can cost you a fortune if something inside the dash decides to stop working. Most customers are too arrogant to believe that water and electronics are a bad mix...because they "never had that happen before" and they always "know a guy".

Check out the thread "peanut killer" for defrost tacking.

Congrats on sharpening a new skill set.

I would like to see a piece of that film up close. Cling film staying in place on roll ups....?

Gee whiz, ppf it to the outside and be done with it.

Hair gel.

Try pulling the pillar covers before installing and maybe put some tape over the rough edges.