Dano

I just found the best answer, so far, to the peanut problem plaguing the Dodge rear window.

Normally I will use #3 steel wool w/soap and water, microfiber wipe, mist, squeegee, 70% alcohol, squeegee, flush, squeegee, flush and lay film.

A few days ago the alcohol was out of reach and I picked up a bottle of 15% Rapid Tac/85% water and the film stuck down better than ever. I thought it was a fluke and tried it again on a windshield and got the same results.

Rapid Tac is usually used as a surface prep cleaning solution for vinyl graphics and also good for wet applications of factory truck bedside graphics, think FX4 and TRD logos.

Sometimes I win by accident, this was one of those times. I hope this helps everyone else win as well.

The short answer is materials x 5 to 10, roughly.

I can bid that job for fleet/preload, but I wouldn't do it without being compensated. Too many variables that would leave money on the table without a through assessment. 

From "Peel"...can't make that stuff up.

Law sounds a bit like whatever they want it to be tho. Poor guy probably has to fill up the school cars and got yanked doing his job.

Everything has been run of the mill lately, but this one was different.

Set of doors in HP30 and wrapped hood and upper bumper cover in Avery Rugged Onyx Black.

The pebbled texture has a bedliner look without adding 100lbs to the panel.

You wouldn't believe the stupidity involved in getting that bumper cover off of there. I probably could have laid it in place, but I didn't want a warranty issue to haunt me when my client is 1000mi away. And I like to snap the film arround the headlight curves and bezel.

Those G37s /350Zs were so tight I remember pulling the panel and laying the film so far down the glass.

I'm glad the weather/terrain is too harsh to see those out here.

👆correct.

Yes some cars are more difficult. However from your pics that model looks pretty simple. Only some of the Euro cars and very few others are difficult these days.

Usually because of fuzzy window seals or door panels that block access to the glass, and a good installer will know what to do when that becomes an issue.

When you find the right shop that does the job properly, please send them to sign up TintDude. It's always nice to share knowledge and expand the network of good installers. 

Unfortunately, I would take it to a regular shop. Maybe they will have mercy and win a customer for life if they can get it right.

Check the reviews and go look at their work on site around mid day. They should have a few fresh installs out in the lot. 

If you have questions about their products post em up before you go for the installation. Someone here will try to help out I'm sure.

I've not had that issue. Are you pulling the sweep out?

If not maybe round the corner a little more, put a bit more pressure on a blue conqueror and leave a triangle in there with a paper towel to soak up moisture. I usually do the doors first and leave the door locks rolled until I finish the rest of the job. 

That's my best guesses and remedies.

Depends on the film. Global is about the hardest. I punish that film regularly with no issues. Expel comes in a close second.

Never liked using Suntek and the bottom end Llumar products that gets used on fleet preloads.

AWSF was notorious for scratching at the slightest touch.

Roll down the window and spray the gasket. Just using it to reduce friction, not polish.

What did you put on it?

I guess it's been a while since I did one of those. I won't doubt your pain tho, I just got re-educated on a four door Saturn for a friend this week. 

What is the legal limit there?

I've seen privacy printed on alot of windows and factory sales stickers (monronies). It's usually just a uv coating baked into the glass on sedans and coupes.

Most passenger cars do not come with darkened glass unless they are classified as light duty trucks, MPVs or crossovers. 

Kinda like when you buy "real juice" at a store only to read the label and find out it's 10% concentrate and 90%water. It's a sad state of affairs when words are ambivalent in relation to what is being presented.

"Knock knock knock, yo man it's me, Dave, let me in"...

"No man, Dave's not here"...

"No, I'm Dave! I got the stuff come on man let me in"...

"I already told you man, Dave's not here"... 

Truth is most here are likely either using Core or Xpel software and the rest are chopping by hand. I've actually designed my own patterns for what I do the most of for fleet vehicles using CorelDraw.

You could probably get a 30day trial from either company. If you do please tell us what you think. Probably some others would like to know as well.

How strict are the rules enforced for tinted windows there?

We all have out nitch I suppose. Restyling has always been mine. I like cars, I like art, I like efficiency and I gotta do something, so I guess I'm pretty fortunate to find an industry spot that does all three.

Sometimes we win, even if it's by accident 

Yes, I still think the front looks darker. The pic shows a lot of glare but I can still see the headrest through the top of the glass.

I've never seen privacy glass that I could look straight through both sides of the car from the outside. Doesn't seem very private. I think you should witnesses the glass being metered yourself to verify.

I don't think the rear of that vehicle has any factory privacy glaze on the glass. The front is definitely darker. It may say AS2-TINT but that's a glaze primarily for uv reduction, not privacy.

Strip the front doors and put 70ceramic on them would be my suggestion.

The Global 70 ceramic has a slight brass hue. The HP 40 is fairly neutral. The blue may be in the glass itself.

If you place a white piece of paper behind a window not tinted you can see whatever color intonation is in the glass from the factory. Each manufacturer specs something different.

FWIW the Global 70 is the best performing out of their entire lineup. I have it in a light box with some of the darker shades and the difference is blatantly noticeable.

I speculate that it's two base layers of ceramic laminated with a scratch coat. I can't think of any other reason that it would perform so well.

Nice! 

So many ways to slice and dice it. 

For edifice, I've ran the gamut of all of these and prefer the wholesale position with a light mix of retail regulars/referrals over babysitting  installers.

As to your question of warranty work, a good installer should only have a few panels come back each year. I average about 5 or 6 annually, usually in the winter. A good installer should replace it without complaint.

If it's customer damage from a seatbelt etc. you should offer to comp him.

Commission is usually found in direct retail environments. If a shop sells an install for $---.xx an average installer should expect 35% of the sale for the labor.

An entry level guy might be 30% or less, or sometimes hourly. 

A top level guy that doesn't need a babysitter can easily get 40% to 45% of the total sales ticket. Once you get to this level most of these guys are 1099 subs and should be carrying their own insurance.

If the shop has a good sales team, good environment, good volume 40% is about the most you should have to pay. Shop keepers insurance shouldn't be to much, but require that you get a copy of their cert.

This is why some shop owners will only pay on a w2.

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After that you get to the wholesalers who will provide film and services to shops who resale their work. Audio shops, fleet upfitters, small to medium dealerships. These guys will help the retailer set a list price and bill at a net of usually 70%. Also on 1099 and usually net 30 days.

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After that is when an installer opens a full retail store to the public and the cycle starts over again as he trains or hires from the above list.

For what you are doing flat rate is about the way to go if the inventory is mostly similar. Most all pre-load situations are this way.

The only variation would be if you need to pull the door panels or other interior parts off for access or not because it adds more labor to the job, which can also be flat rated. You can check CCC1 at a bodyshop for labor times and divide by half usually and be pretty accurate.

Whew... I'm gonna go sit down with @Bham now. I'm out of breath.

I honestly don't know anyone with more flat glass knowledge than @Tintguy1980. I really appreciate being a fly on the wall when class is in session around here.