Dano

If the van is parked the heat will have a not have a chance to dissipate off the glass or the van body. Tint will hold the heat on the glass and but without motion it will eventually transfer to the interior (thermal bridge). You would be better off wrapping the outside glass with aluminum foil or foiled bubble wrap(home depot) to stop the sun altogether. That's one of many reasons older trailer parks look so sketchy. Skirting around the bottom would help keep the ground cooler underneath. I would try to find some shade to park under as well or just head to a cooler climate if possible. Florida sun is no joke.

That's pretty dang sporty! Always wanted one of those in high school. How in the world did they never rack up the miles!? I would have drove the heck out of it!

Welcome to TintDude. Was that glass ever replaced? Check the stamps at the lower rear corner and see if one is different. If not the installer may have used film from a different roll on that door.

Highlight from today. GT500 Shelby, sounded pretty angry.

Looks like the installer left too much H20 in the pattern. The air got left behind after evaporating. It won't affect the film performance but not an ideal install. I would ask them to do it again.

You're welcome. I'm always interested in elevating the industry. I have a good friend who uses one of these for mobile dent removal to cool off body panels. He says he's used it in fair to moderate wind and never had it come loose as long as he wipes the dust off before sticking the suction cup. Super rigid. Said it was a game changer for doing lot work. $300.

Moble Tech RX has made billing alot easier. It will also do payment, scheduling and is easy to port info over to quick books. When I did more mobile I always had a roll of tape to act as an extra set of hands. On windy days I would close myself into the car to peel and stick the doors. Also reverse rolled all the back glass. Very rarely will I do it now, dont miss it at all. I did however upsell alot of residential glass at the time.

You can't take the blue out of it but you can gather a few film samples and apply them to the inside to see which final color you find most agreeable.

Once you get 5min up the mountains stuff like that is everywhere. The people who live up there full time are in love those small awd's. There's used to be a Subaru with ag tires in the Estes Park/ Lyons area. It's easy to laugh when you see them zooming the unplowed roads like water bugs.

Because Colorado has a strange breed of intown millennial hicks that are into condo's, Honda's, frisbee golf and elk hunting.

Just when I thought I'd seen the last of these, one comes in awd & turbo'd up making 300hp on the dyno. Owner told me take it out and give it some juice.

I didn't notice anything stupid on the last one. As always I use a soak rope and tape towels over the dash center.

Sweet! Those dingers really bother some folks. I've been doing a bunch of random lot crap like that lately. Got some hail work from the next county over starting to trickle over. Hopefully it's not smashed and I can book it without a bodyshop.

If it's sticking where your fingers are then I think you're putting too much pressure on the film. Also push out on the glass when flushing before install. Please take my advice and soap the seals. That alone will speed up your learning curve.

If it's the sides try putting some raw soap on the rubber seals with the windows down before you prep. I use a micro fibre towel wrapped hard triangle card to scrub first then wet+add raw soap on the rubber before rolling up to prep. This will help limit handling creases as well.

Try using two bottles. One with more soap to soak the bottom of the film and bottom of the glass. Yes, use minimal pressure until the film is close to the right place. Also make sure the glass is cool. You might try an early morning install before the humidity picks up. Late day installs are always stickier. If you see the water beading off the glass instead of staying soapy, it's going to be difficult anyway. Some glass cleaners have ceramic suspended in them and will cause the water to bead off. I'm a fan of #3 steel wool during the cleaning. Helps to break some of the coatings and removes corrosion off the defroster lines. Wipe and rince really well to collect any loose fibers from the wool. Good luck.

Depending on its age and if you can demonstrate its operability you might get 1000 to 1200. If you cant demonstrate it maybe half of that. Of course you could list it for more and a non-pro/craft maker might buy it as an upgrade to a desktop/Hobby Lobby cutter. Give it a whirl, you might do alright.

I tried it a few years ago and would never use it in a professional setting. Wasn't impressed with how it handled or the overall look after installation. The scratch coat was so weak that I could hardly push it without scaring. With that said I've been on Global products almost exclusively for the last four or five years because of the tough top coating and have had zero product failures for any reason to date. My earliest Global install was over a decade ago, still with no failures. FWIW I use only the HP and Ceramics in their lineup.

All of the films you mentioned will likely out live the usefulness of the vehicle you're installing it on. I recommend visiting the local install shops and requesting a film sample to find the color/shade you prefer. Take a look at some of the finished work while you're there.

Those panels are all pretty much crap. I've gotten to where I'll yank the seals and tape em off to try to keep em dry. 100+ years of making cars and they seem to have learned nothing.

I'm going to guess that she's using acetone and recommend #3 steel wool and SprayAway glass cleaner.

I'll bet a dollar it was done when cleaning with a single edge. Plains is correct. That damage shouldn't be there on a new car.

Wow. I would get a quote from the car dealership and demand the tint shop cut you a check on the spot.

That is a medium/high tack tape made for heat cycles in a paint booth. You can find it at a bodyshop supply store. I'll use about any tape I have handy but that is my favorite. Heck, all I could easily spot was some duct tape yesterday so thats what I used. I would not have used it on the porche tho. The stitching was a bright yellow and the duct tape might stain it or be to aggressive when lifting. Taping off the areas only takes a few minutes at best. I allows me to fit the pattern in quicker because im not a worried about picking up contamination. Yes, I charge according to my customers expectations. I'll get top dollar because they expect top quality, and that comes at a premium. I also do a mix of average commuter cars for average folks who just need some tint on there. I'll serve them with just an average invoice. Of course if someone is a jackwagon I'll price that accordingly as well. Fun, Fair & Firm is how I operate.

Can you loosen the panel a bit? I try to clean the glass with as little water as needed, then sweep the edges with a thin triangle card with a microfiber wrapped around it and mist only the pattern when installing. Find a video on removing or at least loosening that piece if the above doesn't work for you. It might be easier than you expect.