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When putting glue on dots...wet or dry?


goodtohave

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In the past I have been pretty lucky with dot-matrix by wetsanding and shrinking properly. Recently I did a Cavalier I tried the glue method (clear water soluble stuff). I tinted normally then pulled the top back to expose the dots, heated the outside a bit to get rid of the moisture and put glue ( I need a syringe bcause it dripped all over!) and then squeegeed it out, it was pretty inconsistant. So for experimenting purposes I pulled it back again and sprayed it with water/soap mix and then squeegeed again, it seemed better.

So do you guys dry first or hit it wet? :beer

It has probably been discussed a lot but I did a search and it the &%$# word glue comes up on MANY treads....

Thanks!

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I just squeegee as much water out as possible, but I haven't tried drying out completely because I can't get a completely even line when it's down, and I dont want a dryspot. It is hard to get a consistent amount and often it will look lumpy, bt it usually dries flat. If you push too much glue out trying to get it flat, it may draw air.

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Guest Total tint

usually I dont add glue install and then heat it on the outside to get it slightly warm and hit with a hard card with a towell wraped around it (prevents scratches)

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I have been at this a long time and I can get the dots to 95%...I have never had a client complain. I just thought I would try glue.

As far as vinyl goes I like my jobs to look factory, no matter what you say vinyl does not look factory. It helps to know that in my area I don't do a lot of dark tint, 35% in the rear is most common, vinyl probably looks better on 20% or 5%.

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