Jump to content

When putting glue on dots...wet or dry?


Recommended Posts

In the past I have been pretty lucky with dot-matrix by wetsanding and shrinking properly. Recently I did a Cavalier I tried the glue method (clear water soluble stuff). I tinted normally then pulled the top back to expose the dots, heated the outside a bit to get rid of the moisture and put glue ( I need a syringe bcause it dripped all over!) and then squeegeed it out, it was pretty inconsistant. So for experimenting purposes I pulled it back again and sprayed it with water/soap mix and then squeegeed again, it seemed better.

So do you guys dry first or hit it wet? :beer

It has probably been discussed a lot but I did a search and it the &%$# word glue comes up on MANY treads....

Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just squeegee as much water out as possible, but I haven't tried drying out completely because I can't get a completely even line when it's down, and I dont want a dryspot. It is hard to get a consistent amount and often it will look lumpy, bt it usually dries flat. If you push too much glue out trying to get it flat, it may draw air.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Total tint

usually I dont add glue install and then heat it on the outside to get it slightly warm and hit with a hard card with a towell wraped around it (prevents scratches)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have been at this a long time and I can get the dots to 95%...I have never had a client complain. I just thought I would try glue.

As far as vinyl goes I like my jobs to look factory, no matter what you say vinyl does not look factory. It helps to know that in my area I don't do a lot of dark tint, 35% in the rear is most common, vinyl probably looks better on 20% or 5%.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...