Film Handlers?

December 11, 2009

when using a filmhandler on a 6' ladder how do you pull more than 72" accurately ?

get a bigger ladder? :lol6

Steelfly · December 11, 2009

when using a filmhandler on a 6' ladder how do you pull more than 72" accurately ?

what ya do my friend is simply pull down to a certain length (whatever easy math is?) then lift the film towards you back up to the top rail where you began then pinch the film together and pull down the rest of the way to equal the total length needed .. then ya simply stop pulling.,.. flip down the bar and make your cut..... make any sense ....?

addicted to tint · December 11, 2009

when using a filmhandler on a 6' ladder how do you pull more than 72" accurately ?

Pulling off a ladder, most guys have either labeled their ladder in inch increments towards the floor or use the metal 60" measuring attachment which hangs off the handler. When you pull down film to the lowest accurate point of pull, mark the liner of the film with ink pen/marker and continue to pull film while rolling it up to desired length of glass to be filmed. You can double the length of original pull and repeat if necessary.

Fiveofeen · December 11, 2009

It really boils down to what is your time and material worth. If you are doing enough work where 1' here and there of waste is going to add up annually to a decent amount, and you are always in need of more time to complete jobs then you should have one.

Remember... the standard on tintdude is, if you don't own something/use something then it is a complete waste of time for reason xyz... ESPECIALLY if you have absolutely no background/experience/use of said product :shock :lol6

December 11, 2009

It really boils down to what is your time and material worth. If you are doing enough work where 1' here and there of waste is going to add up annually to a decent amount, and you are always in need of more time to complete jobs then you should have one.
Remember... the standard on tintdude is, if you don't own something/use something then it is a complete waste of time for reason xyz... ESPECIALLY if you have absolutely no background/experience/use of said product :nope

:beer

I agree on the waste and time part. I don't care how much film I throw away its such a marginal cost in this industry, but I sure as hell know I don't throw away enough useable scraps to equal $600 bucks

Fiveofeen · December 11, 2009

depending on the film you are using per sq ft cost could range from .50 cents a square to $6 or higher a square. Say you are using even just a 48" wide roll that is anywhere from $2.00 of waste to $24 in waste per linear foot.

That can add up quickly. I dunno I count EVERY penny, when you take that on one job and consider how many jobs a year you are doing it adds up fast!

December 11, 2009

depending on the film you are using per sq ft cost could range from .50 cents a square to $6 or higher a square. Say you are using even just a 48" wide roll that is anywhere from $2.00 of waste to $24 in waste per linear foot.
That can add up quickly. I dunno I count EVERY penny, when you take that on one job and consider how many jobs a year you are doing it adds up fast!

the most expensive film I install is just under $2 per, I don't use a lot of the high end films.

plus when I quote I quote it in linear feet off a roll, so I figure if the biggest window is 37" so I need a 48 roll, then all the windows get quoted as one dimension being 48, unless its like 20, then I'll split the 48 down the middle for it. so most of my waste is paid for anyways :nope

Fiveofeen · December 11, 2009

depending on the film you are using per sq ft cost could range from .50 cents a square to $6 or higher a square. Say you are using even just a 48" wide roll that is anywhere from $2.00 of waste to $24 in waste per linear foot.
That can add up quickly. I dunno I count EVERY penny, when you take that on one job and consider how many jobs a year you are doing it adds up fast!

the most expensive film I install is just under $2 per, I don't use a lot of the high end films.

plus when I quote I quote it in linear feet off a roll, so I figure if the biggest window is 37" so I need a 48 roll, then all the windows get quoted as one dimension being 48, unless its like 20, then I'll split the 48 down the middle for it. so most of my waste is paid for anyways

I'm not talking about waste from the width of the film, I'm talking about waste on the length part of the film. Either way, I wouldnt have been able to justify a FH when I was in your shoes two years ago but when its full time tinting mostly flat all day everyday, it makes sense to me. Different strokes for different folks, they are fun to use once you get the hang of it.

What I really wanna see is the film star, that is a whole different thing. Super hard to come by, it actually pulls the liner as you pull film from the roll and cuts it across the bottom with a foot control (this is how I've been explained, never used one myself) you can crank major sq ft on the right job, saves you hiring a helper. I remember Dan Reid telling me he did one job that was friendly to the film star (lots of sliding glass doors) and he was cranking double the sq ft he usually handles.

December 11, 2009

depending on the film you are using per sq ft cost could range from .50 cents a square to $6 or higher a square. Say you are using even just a 48" wide roll that is anywhere from $2.00 of waste to $24 in waste per linear foot.
That can add up quickly. I dunno I count EVERY penny, when you take that on one job and consider how many jobs a year you are doing it adds up fast!

the most expensive film I install is just under $2 per, I don't use a lot of the high end films.

plus when I quote I quote it in linear feet off a roll, so I figure if the biggest window is 37" so I need a 48 roll, then all the windows get quoted as one dimension being 48, unless its like 20, then I'll split the 48 down the middle for it. so most of my waste is paid for anyways

I'm not talking about waste from the width of the film, I'm talking about waste on the length part of the film. Either way, I wouldnt have been able to justify a FH when I was in your shoes two years ago but when its full time tinting mostly flat all day everyday, it makes sense to me. Different strokes for different folks, they are fun to use once you get the hang of it.

What I really wanna see is the film star, that is a whole different thing. Super hard to come by, it actually pulls the liner as you pull film from the roll and cuts it across the bottom with a foot control (this is how I've been explained, never used one myself) you can crank major sq ft on the right job, saves you hiring a helper. I remember Dan Reid telling me he did one job that was friendly to the film star (lots of sliding glass doors) and he was cranking double the sq ft he usually handles.

that would be sweet to have one of those.

tint_audiopros · December 11, 2009

when using a filmhandler on a 6' ladder how do you pull more than 72" accurately ?

Pulling off a ladder, most guys have either labeled their ladder in inch increments towards the floor or use the metal 60" measuring attachment which hangs off the handler. When you pull down film to the lowest accurate point of pull, mark the liner of the film with ink pen/marker and continue to pull film while rolling it up to desired length of glass to be filmed. You can double the length of original pull and repeat if necessary.

now that makes sense, seems to be a pain but it'll work. I still think pulling out of the box for a window thats 9' in length would be quicker than pulling from a film handler on a 6' ladder, having to make a mark at 72" and pull another 36" then make your cut. :nope Im trying to decide between the new clean cut box slittler set or a film handler. I don't do a whole lot of security film and french panes don't exist in my area. Do the clean cut slitters work on 8 mil window film...Are you able to get two straight edges ?