Jump to content

1988 honda accord back glass


Guest lone-tinman

Recommended Posts

Guest lone-tinman

So I am a rookie but when I started tinting I had a really experienced mentor (almost 30 years). I do not have him anymore as I regretably have moved on from his company.

Anyway, I have now twice tried to shrink and install back glass on friend's 88 Accord. Looked relatively easy, but not so much. I used the drier sheet method as I have used before, shrank most of the window with no issues. The edges of the window gave me serious hassle where the curve is the greatest. I expected that. However I was able to finally get it shrunk down after an hour of fighting with it.

The first install I cut my usual 1/8" past dot matrix. This did not work! It was too big. Plus I realized there was a ton of extra film like I hadnt shrunk enough. So I tried again. This time I was able to get a pretty dang good shrink job, and I cut at the very edge of the dot matrix..basically no margin of error. Oh yes and I also had to cut holes for the rear defroster terminals. The cuts looked perfect. The shrink was impressive to me as a rookie.

The problem was upon install, the film was still too big. the edges were past the dot matrix, and on this car there really is no room, past the dot matrix, just the factory seal or upholestry. plus the edges of the glass where most of the curve was still not appearing to be shrank enough.

Long story short, final install of back glass not to par and I will be going back a third.

My questions are:

Why was cutting right at the border of the dot matrix not working? Do I need to cut in further on these types of back glasses?

Is this a hard back glass for experienced installers?

Does a certain curvature of glass indicate that a piece of film needs to be considerably smaller to fit on the inside of the glass than it does to fit on the outside of the glass?

Tools used:

Wagner 2 stage heat gun (used on low heat primarily)

Turbo squeege

Bulldozer

Blue Max beveled

Used a flexible corner tool with towel for shrinking (gold ez-reach I believe)

Film: EWF/Concord HP Metallized charcoal 20%

pictures: http://s958.photobucket.com/albums/ae62/gmanhl22/88%20honda%20accord/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest crossy67

Because of the sharp curve and the thickness of the glass the inside is smaller and the film needs more shrink. I hope that makes sense...

What he said. The thicker the glass the smaller the radii will be on the inside compared to the outside. You tend to find the older the car, the thicker the glass. I used to get similar problems with the Mk4 Golfs before films started shrinking that bit more. I used to cut them about 3mm shy of the edge of the dots, this would give me just about enough shrink to get them, when fitted they'd sit perfect.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Best I can suggest is pull some film from the top so you have some small fingers on the side, ones that you can heat a bit and lay down after the install. That will make for a little less shrinking on the top and bottom and less chance of creasing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  •   Sponsored by
    ride wrap

    Conco

    Lexen

    tintwiz

    auto-precut.com

    signwarehouse

    martinmetalwork.com

    tinttek

    filmvinyldesigns

  • Activity Stream

    1. 4

      Cracked glass

    2. 4

      Cracked glass

    3. 4

      Cracked glass

    4. 3

      Automotive Tint Comparison

    5. 4

      Cracked glass

    6. 4

      Cracked glass

    7. 1

      Residential Film without blue hue?

    8. 3

      Automotive Tint Comparison

    9. 1

      Residential Film without blue hue?

×
×
  • Create New...