Tractor Glass Removal Sequence

Whiteboy · August 11, 2017

6 hours to form and lay the film. I've had success in the past with roughly 30 tractor installs. I always ask the client to have any attached glass removed prior to the appointment but in my experience it's about 50/50 which means I've kept to a safe sequence for removing and re-attaching these heavy pieces.

I always "break" loose each bolt no more than a quarter turn and start from the bottom which relieves any pressure from previous over-torquing and puts any weighted pressure to the top and the glass can be supported by hanging more natural as the glass will usually be at an angle. As long as pressure has been relieved from every bolt this should prevent breakage while removing hardware. this sequence was not followed and the result was the back glass exploded. Cost for a new replacement was a grand and delivered the unit the next day. The client felt he may have over-torqued the hardware as he just had the glass out days prior. Either way, we didnt follow a known procedure. Client was very satisfied with the installation. Any suggestions for methods to reduce glass breakage would be appreciated.

DOOTINT · August 11, 2017

It would be nice to do a really nice job on a tractor but i will not take the glass out of them@really? Are they going to a custom tractor show?

Just cut around the nobs/brackets and put it on and paint or marker or some black vinyl the bit of daylight

Let them take the glass out if they want a premo job lol and also trying to support that big piece of glass to tint it?

jh812 · August 11, 2017

Great tips I don't get many of those most of the farmers seem to cheap. I mean how dare you charge a grand to tint their quarter of a million dollar machine :lol good on ya for pulling the glass and doing it the right way.

driftmaster · August 11, 2017

A tinter that knows what he's doing wouldn't remove the glass. I'v done 100's of those rigs ans never once removed a glass. Besides they will wrinkle around each bolt.

takes me 4 hours or less do do that rig. We get $500 a pop here in this part of the cou try.

jh812 · August 11, 2017

And here we go. :facepalm2

highplains · August 11, 2017

:popcorn

Aesop_Rock · August 11, 2017

Lets get it on!

Aesop_Rock · August 12, 2017

11 hours ago, driftmaster said:

A tinter that knows what he's doing wouldn't remove the glass. I'v done 100's of those rigs ans never once removed a glass. Besides they will wrinkle around each bolt.

takes me 4 hours or less do do that rig. We get $500 a pop here in this part of the cou try.

What type of film are putting on?

driftmaster · August 12, 2017

I'm using Johnson at the moment, the line Marathon. Their price is very fair and they have a good product. Yes, they have some issues just like every film out there but it has proved itself to me over the six years I've been using it. Only thing I can really bitched about is the frayed ends on 20 " rolls. What can you really expect from a $8 monkey in the warehouse. If you hand cut like I do it's no big deal. They did send me a free roll and let the monkey know about it. Making a product that lasts forever is something no manufacturer is interested in doing.

Back to the op's post. Yes it looked good when it left the shop but I bet it has all ready wrinkled around all the bolts that hold on the glass. So what looks better? How much time wasted that could been spent making money? My best advice is to quit trying to please yourself, all you need to do is please the customer. If he's not happy then redo it and put him or her first in line, they've already paid you. If you're concerned about a little bit of light then do as someone posted earlier in this thread paint or tape it. Do like I do and carry a black paint pen they work great. Just figure in that the film is going to grow a little bit when you put it on the inside. If you can't cut a circle get a alum drafting Square they have pre cut circles of all sizes on them.