Tintguy1980

The crack indicates thermal stress, however, the edge of the glass may have an imperfection (bur or clam shell chip). The crack does run 90 degrees out from the edge and curves as it follows any weaknesses in the pane itself. I have attached a pictured of what tempered glass looks like when it breaks and alongside it what a plate (or float) and heat-strengthened glass looks like when it breaks. The outer panel my be tempered should indicate so by a stamp etched on the glass surface in one corner. It should indicate tempered. Plate glass has no indicators, however, heat-strengthened glass will crack in the same manner as plate glass. I'm an unsure whether heat-strengthened glass requires a stamp. Tempered glass is 4 times stronger than plate and heat-strengthened is 2 times stronger than plate. 1 in 24 is indicative of edge imperfection. I could not find the solar absorption rate of DN 50, but if it is similar to competitive films, there should be no issue with that installation setting (including a straight line shadow). This, too, points back to edge imperfection as the cause. And finally, I spy drapes in a close position, correct? If so, it would be helpful to crack open during sun exposure; this to assist in allowing trapped heat between the glass and drapes to dissipate.

Take a look at 3M's Nightvision or LLumar's Dual Reflective series, they both have a warm tone to them.

LLumar, 3M and Solargard have in the industry as far back as the genesis of window film mid-1960's). Solargard is the younger of the three and all others came to play in the last 20 or so years. I've had all three on my vehicles over the years and my current is 3M Crystalline on my Jeep since 2015. It still has stable color, scratch coat is holding strong and impeccable adhesive clarity. Never been garaged. My choice toady would be 3M or LLumar.

Hook up with Glassy Business and get all the ins and outs of pro vs DIY with window film. That company goes back way before my retirement in 2015. I want to believe they are/were a Vista Film dealer and I cannot remember the owner's name. Peace out.

Forgot to mention; if your house is under HOA, you may have to check in with them. Some, eh hem, many seemingly shy away from having a reflective look to the glass. A dual reflective with a visible light transmission of 35% (ex: NV35) would likely be more palatable to HOA, but not so happy for the owner. Your position to take with them is: The higher the reflectivity of a film product, the better when dealing with desert heat. There exists a necessary (physics) compromise in every window film transaction. Can't please all parties. Glad I could help educate.

Personally knowing what it's like in Vegas when it's hot, I would stir clear of any film TSER performance value less than 60% or a solar heat gain value greater than 40%. Prestige does not fit this and would be a big waste of good money. Huper Optiks' ceramic products have high solar energy absorption rates, so in hot environments these kind high absorptive films run counterintuitive to the use of the product while using air conditioning to cooling the interior. High absorption on the inside pane, where most films are applied will radiate that absorbed heat toward the room. Outside breezes across the exterior surface of the window will not be as effective in cooling down the interior than say a low absorptive film, high solar reflection film product. In this case, low absorptive/high solar reflection products should be a go-to such as: 3M's Night Vision15 or NV25, Vista Film's Dual Reflective18 or DR 28, LLumar's DR15 or DR25 (which closely matches 3M NV), or Madico's Optivision in and around the same number assignment. The numbers assigned to films represent the visible light transmission of the product. When a dealer comes out to assess and likely have and leave samples, use the samples as sunglasses by wrapping over your eyes a viewing out and in the room. This gives you a more precise idea of what the film will look like once applied. A small sample placed on the glass will always appear darker than having the entire panel tinted. Good luck.

Dry shrink is akin to moving from the horse and buggy age to the age of automobiles; not only innovative, but you find yourself getting to your destination quicker. Dry shrink is also less damaging to the chemical properties of the film itself. And like Bham has pointed out in different words, work smart not harder. TD mentioned the wet check after dry shrinking, which is a technique used by many in the early stages of learning to dry shrink. Plenty of demos on Youtube.

Any impact from polishing, if the mar responds to polishing, would result in no or little visible trace. Anyone experienced in buffing glass will likely say, no guarantees; unless they've experienced the same mar on glass.

I use(d) these that are readily available through grocery stores; on installs that should not have a blade running across their surface. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Scotch-Brite-3PK-Dobie-Cleaning-Pad/580762256?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101033794&gclsrc=aw.ds&&adid=22222222227580762256_101033794_160178497084_20981201920&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=689850595863&wl4=pla-2274697737319&wl5=9008682&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=255470249&wl11=online&wl12=580762256_101033794&veh=sem&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyo335LbOhQMVo0tHAR1HpQC8EAQYASABEgKydfD_BwE Need to know whether the boat has glass or does it have plexiglass (acrylic) or Lexan (poly-carbonate). Glass is not worrisome, the other two are. Plexi will blister from out-gassing in no time at all, whereby, Poly-carbonate is a crap shoot as to when and how serious, if any, blistering of film occurs. Both Plexi and Ploy may also be difficult to remove, if the need arises down the road mainly getting the adhesive of without damaging the surface. Both should not be warranted given the aforementioned potentials and these conditions should be discussed with the owner.

The first picture appears to be similar to a 25%. Front of house? The second picture with 2 shades pulled down should get 25%, especially if facing West. The third picture should get 45%. The compromise is lesser privacy, while providing greater incoming light (already shaded from patio overhead). Small samples provided by the dealer don't give you a good sense of what the film will look like once installed. There is too much light streaming in around the sample (when taped to the glass), making the film look darker than what it will look like installed. The best and most accurate way to see what it will look like, viewing out, is to use the sample as quasi-sunglasses by wrapping it around your face and eyes (to the point of no light leaking in). Now, look toward the window(s). Viola`, there's your tinted view. As to the tax benefit, do check with a pro tax person just in case they no longer have that program. I've been retired for almost a decade now.

A simple google ask tells you it residential installs of film are not taxable; labor and material. If they are collecting tax, they're in for a world of hurt, if discovered. There's also this: For solar films, the tax advantages are even greater. The US Department of Energy allows you to claim up to 30% of the cost, including installation fees. You may want to ask your tax prep person about this. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- My choice of the three films for the home would be Madico. Why? They've had a solid product for as long as my career goes back. They are also one of the founders of the window film industry (mid to late 50's last century, along with 3M and LLumar), whereby the other two came along years later; SolarGard then Suntek, respectively. I used to sell SolarGard and got away from them when they had a rash of failures in the late 80's, moving to LLumar/Vista. Suntek is owned by Eastman Chemical, who also owns many other brands and is known for producing components other brands will buy and use. Suntek was bought by Eastman about ten years ago to work as an entry level product (lower cost product) in comparison to their LLumar, Vista, Huper Optiks, V-kool brands for residential/commercial glass. Eastman Chem is the fifth generation owner of the film plant in Henry Co. Virginia.

Little tough and time consuming to walk someone through the process using words. See if either of these will help:

This day and age we have armchair rookie experts calling out true to form experts with decades of experience. Case in point our own Dr. Fauci with a career spanning 50 yrs studying virus and bacteria getting trounced during the Covid crisis.

Correct; using 15 will darken, so will 25, just not as much. Experiment before laying $$ down on film by watching TV with sunglasses, especially when the sun is bombarding those windows straight on. Does it make watching TV more comfortable? In other words, does it cut the glare to your satisfaction? Use old-fashion dark sunglasses, not some special ops type advertised on TV and don't use polarized. Or, take a film sample and wrap it around your face, covering your eyes as faux glasses and watch TV in the worst of the sun shining through. Pick the sample that satisfies your comfort level. If it satisfies your comfort level, then either of the two would suffice. Also, compare pricing between LLumar Dr 15/25 and the 3M NV. They are said to be very close in appearance. I don't recall which has the edge over the other in terms of total solar energy rejection. If neither film works, you are facing the prospect of sun-blocking shades, blind or drapes; motorized of course. Good luck.

It takes anywhere from two weeks to 4 weeks for the moisture to dry out from under the film. Dot matrix material height off the glass varies from glass manufacturer to glass manufacturer. The film is suspended off the glass between each dot and is not flimsy/flexible enough to be pressed to stay in between these dots. Take a look at other cars around parking lots and you will see a mixed appearance from car to car; some will adhere nicely in the dot region some will not. Again, it depends on the material height of the dot matrix. Throwing some pictures up on this site showing precisely what you see would be more helpful than an article. Going with another film doesn't translate into improved conditions since they are made with similar thickness. Visors are regulated by state law and the vast majority of States restrict them to no more than six inches. And lastly, you are not alone; every car owner believes window tint can be applied so perfect that it would be perceived to be actual glass and not an aftermarket product.