smookee408@yahoo.com

So I did a model 3 last year with Global Ceramic now customer comes back says it’s peeling but was not the issue. It’s clear the defroster line burned the film. Also at the bottom of the glass there was a cracked. I told customer the cracking is a known issue and Tesla would replace under warranty. I told them I’ll retint for free if the replace. Man I’m really thinking about not touching these cars anymore. I’m hoping Tesla honors their product and don’t blame this on the tint. PICS!

QDP might not be the best film to practice with as the adhesive is more aggressive then other films. Especially if temperature goes up so does the difficulty.

Thanks Mike for the tip. I have one of these today.

Vw’s

I paid a mobile detailer to go to my customer workplace and take care of it. I didn’t want to inconvenience them.

Car was brand new and I opened the sun shade and didn’t notice anything unusual. I’m pretty sure this Was from my installation.

It’s been 3 days since install. It’s been cooler here hopefully it’s gone by Monday.

Customer just sent me pics. I’ve done two Atlas both with sunroof. One called back and texted me these pics. I’m going to have a detailer see if he can take care of it on Monday. I’ll keep you guys posted. Anyone else run into this problem? Thanks

Thats the answer I was looking for. I’ve used the Llumar round spin wheel heat box and it wasn’t great at getting the point across as Flex films box. https://flexfilmstore.com/products/heat-box-demonstration I highly recommend this box!

That’s as good as it gets. If you ask him to redo that you’ll end up with worst. Any time you remove tint from the backglass there’s risk of defroster damage. With that being said there will also be a layer of adhesive on the lines making them even thicker with worst results then the first time. Looks like your Tinter did it right with the prep. If he didn’t prep it good the air lines above and below the defroster would be thicker.

I won’t install anyone else’s film either.

Bro I’m not sure how to search it but I did do a post about some diy door covers a few years back. Cost is a few bucks. Had links of where to buy the carpet shields on amazon.

I always use door covers!

Side windows on this model are nearly flat just like most cars. The shrink was done on the peeler called the “snap/ down under shrink”. It’s possible that heat from the sun caused it.

Is IRX available to select pro dealers? What do you guys think compared to CTX? I’m looking at the number and it’s a few percent higher on the tser but can you feel the difference with the heat box?

Bulldozer and the reach can be your best friend in this situation.

Case closed got a 5 star review from her. Point is try to do the best you can do to handle the situation even if it’s not your fault. Listen to their concern and try to rectify it.

I once was at Mercedes dealership buying a used CPO E350 when I noticed all the lines missing at the bottom and razor blade scrapes. I walked from that deal. Most wont noticed if a car has been tinted before and removed. It’s really with a trained eye is when you’ll noticed. Even I miss it sometimes on customers cars. It’s only when I go to tint it that I’ll realize it’s been tinted. Tint adhesive is virtually clear. This is the reason why remove and retint is expensive. We expect to tint at least a couple of windows several times before it’s good enough to hand back to the customers. Like everyone said it’s most likely a sticker that was removed improperly. This also should be a lesson to everyone to do a proper walk around with the customers before work is preformed. I now video record all vehicles prior to work.

Second attempt used 00 steel wool and film laid pretty good. Only some minor peanuts. The trick with scraping the bottom work. No need to remove the rear speaker shelf. Definitely going up in price on these 19’s

If it’s all over it’s in the air or slip

Wow WTF! I just did one and had to scrap the first backglass piece. It crunch up at the bottom. Turns out there’s a rubber lip at the very bottom center. A lip that’s glue to the glass. Peanuts left and right on this one. After further examination I don’t think you’ll need to take out the rear shelf. Get a good flashlight and your olfa and scrap it off while pushing down on the shelf. I’m going on on my second attempt. The 2019’s are getting bumped up in price for sure!

Yeah don’t touch it for at least 10 seconds after heating it. So you don’t smear the layers. Stubborn fingers use the heat and cool method. If you have a finger hard card it to the position you want it and heat it to near blister then cool it by spraying a constant slip solution over it. That should lay it down. Shrinking use the Ryk method or pocket shrink. Personally Ryk is the best unless you have a weird angle where u can’t maintain a bubble.

What kind of contamination are you getting? Is it all over? Random spec? At the break points on roll ups or where you touch the film etc?