Bham

You REALLY need to learn to dry shrink.  That type of finger would not happen and would be way easier to manipulate before failure.  
 
It's not about the time you wait for the prep surface to dry, it is about the ease of shrinking difficult windows without them being difficult. Dry shrinking makes our work so much easier.  Your quality of installs will go way up and time spent on tough back glasses or windshields will go way down.  The stress of doing a difficult shrink is way less once you learn the ropes of dry shrinking.   If you want to improve your craft and get better at installs you are probably gonna have to learn to dry shrink sooner or later.   

Wet shrinking has advantages but it also has limitations. I'd learn a good dry shrink technique, then follow up with a wet check.
You can get a lot more shrink into a piece doing it dry with a lot less stress on the film.

Dry shrink is akin to moving from the horse and buggy age to the age of automobiles; not only innovative, but you find yourself getting to your destination quicker. Dry shrink is also less damaging to the chemical properties of the film itself.
 
And like Bham has pointed out in different words, work smart not harder. TD mentioned the wet check after dry shrinking, which is a technique used by many in the early stages of learning to dry shrink.

Plenty of demos on Youtube.

You REALLY need to learn to dry shrink.  That type of finger would not happen and would be way easier to manipulate before failure.  
 
It's not about the time you wait for the prep surface to dry, it is about the ease of shrinking difficult windows without them being difficult. Dry shrinking makes our work so much easier.  Your quality of installs will go way up and time spent on tough back glasses or windshields will go way down.  The stress of doing a difficult shrink is way less once you learn the ropes of dry shrinking.   If you want to improve your craft and get better at installs you are probably gonna have to learn to dry shrink sooner or later.   

You REALLY need to learn to dry shrink.  That type of finger would not happen and would be way easier to manipulate before failure.  
 
It's not about the time you wait for the prep surface to dry, it is about the ease of shrinking difficult windows without them being difficult. Dry shrinking makes our work so much easier.  Your quality of installs will go way up and time spent on tough back glasses or windshields will go way down.  The stress of doing a difficult shrink is way less once you learn the ropes of dry shrinking.   If you want to improve your craft and get better at installs you are probably gonna have to learn to dry shrink sooner or later.   

Sucks that you got screwed. Sorry to hear that.   But that is what we all kinda figured.  

I created an account just to respond here. I'm not a "tinter" or whatever yall may call yourselves but I came across this product and thought that it looked pretty cool and something I could do myself. I ordered from Lazeway and spent like $150 for two packages. The product is from China although they claim all this America stuff on the website. All i received was two simple rolls of tint, nothing special. I was totally scammed and now I'm looking all over the internet for anyone talking about this product to let them know. 
 
Dont buy from them. 

then Dano was correct about trying to polish it out with the proper glass polish.  Much care and experience is needed for this type of repair.  

As far as I can tell @Bhamit seems to be on the outside of the glass.

That looks like a mar on the surface, hard to see until the tint is installed due to adding contrast. Not likely that the installer is at fault. You might be able to polish some of that out. Use a professional glass polishing compound and maybe ask a car detailer to do it.

I wish it was a 2dr hatch but it’s still cool.  New Integra   

I wish it was a 2dr hatch but it’s still cool.  New Integra   

A few jobs recently done. 

Moved our shop and found this old 3M Relic. Brand New and never used.

I wasn't impressed with anything I read on that site. Terribly vague on product info. 

From the site, I don't understand what it is. What is "overtint"?
 
 
 

Especially on something like an Audi/Acura, Hyundai or VW with super tight seals.  
Don't think that will work with anything rigid or thick.   

Especially on something like an Audi/Acura, Hyundai or VW with super tight seals.  
Don't think that will work with anything rigid or thick.   

Glad to hear from you also Stan.  Hope all is well?   

Leo is still around building armored luxury cars in Riga! He is also running his vodka museum ✊

Just a average day.. Did a full tint job go home and take a nap for a hour before going to the gym

I just found the best answer, so far, to the peanut problem plaguing the Dodge rear window.
 
Normally I will use #3 steel wool w/soap and water, microfiber wipe, mist, squeegee, 70% alcohol, squeegee, flush, squeegee, flush and lay film.
 
A few days ago the alcohol was out of reach and I picked up a bottle of 15% Rapid Tac/85% water and the film stuck down better than ever. I thought it was a fluke and tried it again on a windshield and got the same results.
 
Rapid Tac is usually used as a surface prep cleaning solution for vinyl graphics and also good for wet applications of factory truck bedside graphics, think FX4 and TRD logos.
 
Sometimes I win by accident, this was one of those times. I hope this helps everyone else win as well.

Whew.  I am worn out.     My "new to me" truck DOES NOT have the “easy to shrink” windshield.    

Congrats!

Whew.  I am worn out.     My "new to me" truck DOES NOT have the “easy to shrink” windshield.