TintDude

Yep, it's doable.

This window is one where the bottom gets shrunk first, then the entire sheet is lifted and re-positioned with the top edge of the film below the vinyl's edge.
 
Reset the horizontal anchor working remaining shrinkable excess to the top and go.
 
The bottom (already shrunk) should be carefully smoothed out to ensure anything needing to be heat formed ends up on the upper half; all the while avoiding what overlaps the bottom framework.
 
It's trick but easy enough not to cause too many headaches at install.
 
Oh and ah, run some painters tape along the vinyl's edge that meets the glass to shield it from the heat. Two layers might be best. Tape it off as though you are going to paint.
 
I've used and shown folks this method on newer cars that have top edge tucked well under an air spoiler.

That rear glass is not that hard actually.  Just have to finish it on the inside top because of the outside vinyl top. 

Damn that car is long! 

Also that was the last retail shop before I moved out west and went strictly wholesale. I still keep a shop space but not a storefront. Growing in retail was a pita when you get to a certain volume. I ended up babysitting on a margin while watching my installers and mgrs burn film and make halfass efforts because they had no skin in the game. 

Brokers are a waste of time for the small players. Drive around the areas you want to be in. Take some biz cards with you and ask folks if they know of a suitable space, you can usually make new connections and wrangle up some work while you're at it. Older buisnesses often have space but don't think of listing it because they don't really need to.
 
Keep your eyes open for anything that looks useful. Craigslist/Marketplace can give you an idea of pricing. If you spot something that's not listed negotiate for what you can afford. Used car lots will often have a bay and might like to have the extra draw to their lot. You may be able to trade tint on the lot cars for a partial rent reduction. 
 
You can find gold anywhere as long as you're willing to get in the dirt.
 

Dano serious question how'd you find your spot. I really want to start my own thing, I've contacted real estate brokers and Im not sure that's a good way. 

Find anyplace you can to get started. Next to a tire shop/bodyshop/audio shop/car lot...whatever you can find that is being underused. I've been offered space just due to the cross traffic that I can generate. If you run as a wholesaler the shops you service can carry the overhead and mark up your services.

Thanks TD. 
Shop for paint/prep/base coat...1day
 
Blend colors and project/stencil...1day
 
Cut cardboard template/air brush diamonds/clean up...2days
 
About 30hrs total, most of it after installing all day and early beforehand. 

Did this single cab yesterday.  
5%
35% Windshield

Well, if you are determined, the best way to start is buy some inexpensive film to practice with. Tint your own car, your friends and family etc and get an idea what it's like. Maybe you'll have a knack for it, and practice more until you are confident enough to start charging. Maybe you wont have a knack for it and tear up some cars along the way and realized you dodged a bullet.

We use Eastmans new Core software which is pretty great.   Granted it is pretty new software, it is better and better with every update.  We use to use their Precision Cut software which was really bad but pretty good patterns.  They have revamped the way their patterns are made with tint and with PPF.  I feel within the next year they will be at the top of their game with the patterns and software they are putting out.  They are putting lots of R&D into their software and into the pattern development.

Well, if you are determined, the best way to start is buy some inexpensive film to practice with. Tint your own car, your friends and family etc and get an idea what it's like. Maybe you'll have a knack for it, and practice more until you are confident enough to start charging. Maybe you wont have a knack for it and tear up some cars along the way and realized you dodged a bullet.

I have used the Llumar Extra film and it is 11.5 mils thick.  It is nice for extra protection but it does come with some trade offs.  I did the bed sides of a black Ram Dually.  They are terrible for rock chips on the bed sides.  The orange peel is more than the standard 6 mil window film.  The biggest issue we came across was the deforming of the film when something does hit it. Most likely being on a black truck made it more apparent but there were very noticeable "white" marks from where it got hit by something.  Granted it saved the paint but customers kind of see paint protection as I indestructible barrier.  Also being so thick it does not conform as easily as the 6 mil.  It has its place and works well in those places.  Rockers, spats, fender flares, heavy equipment.

By the way, it's nice to see you, hope you've been well.  

Whenever asked to match, I'd tell them it will not match. You can't even match if you knew the film since it varies from roll to roll and even from side to side on the same piece of film. Just say you can get the shade close but there will always be a slight color difference. 
 
As far as the dual pane, I'm probably wrong, but I think they are so small the risk of thermal fracture is low. 
 
 

As long as the glass is tempered, there is zero risk of thermal breakage, however, dark, highly absorptive, film products pose a risk for seal failure, tempered and or annealed.
 
Usually, the factory dark units have the dark glass layer to the exterior and a clear layer as the inner layer; reversing that structure using film has higher risks.
 

Well, if you are determined, the best way to start is buy some inexpensive film to practice with. Tint your own car, your friends and family etc and get an idea what it's like. Maybe you'll have a knack for it, and practice more until you are confident enough to start charging. Maybe you wont have a knack for it and tear up some cars along the way and realized you dodged a bullet.

You should really get some experience under your belt before just opening a tint shop.
 
This is a difficult trade and good tinters rarely make good businessmen and visa versa. There's a lot to learn about this trade and you don't want to be learning on customers' cars as you can do plenty of damage as you go.
 
I'd suggest getting a job as a helper in a tint shop and develop your skills for a long while before even thinking about going out on your own. Just my opinion.

You should really get some experience under your belt before just opening a tint shop.
 
This is a difficult trade and good tinters rarely make good businessmen and visa versa. There's a lot to learn about this trade and you don't want to be learning on customers' cars as you can do plenty of damage as you go.
 
I'd suggest getting a job as a helper in a tint shop and develop your skills for a long while before even thinking about going out on your own. Just my opinion.

Tired, but it came out great. 
 
 

That diamond plate is sick. How long did it take?

That diamond plate is sick. How long did it take?

A lot of times people spray dressings and greasy chemicals on the engine to make it look shiny, sometimes with the that floats and lands under the hood. I'd recommend as other mentioned wipe it down with alcohol before folding the edges, use a bit of heat, let it dry for a few hours and as a last resort, use ProBond.
Just be careful not to touch the adhesive side of the film with neither the straight up alcohol or probond, you'll melt it.
Hope that helps

This is from almost 20yrs ago.
 
15gal of paint, $300 of vinyl, old classroom projector and a stack of cards. Everyone can do it if they are motivated. Wash, rince, repeat.