Tintguy1980

Without pictures of what you speak of, which would be near impossible to capture those issues in a picture, it's best you take it up with the shop that installed it.

Unfortunately the NIR specs in a single wavelength tells you nothing and are useless in determining overall performance of any film. Single wavelength use is a marketing ploy so the maker can thump their chest about theirs being bigger than yours. 92% @ 1025nm wavelength is one of 1720 wavelengths found in the NIR spectrum, with the most intense being between 780nm - 1500nm-ish. NIR is not heat, it is electromagnetic energy. TSER for the product you speak of is 52%; therein lies the performance capability of that product. As to the perforated shade, yes it will assist in the 'feel', however, it allows any transmitted solar energy to be absorbed by its material, converting to far infrared (heat) and radiated to the cabin. Film on the glass is far more effective in reducing heat build up on all surfaces in the cabin (from the sun's energy); making it warm inside.

Yes, Crystalline would be your best choice. I have Crystalline 40 on my driver/passenger doors and love it. It's been there for 7 years and still performs and looks the same as the day it was installed. As to the glass in the roof, it has laminated glass that is more prone to thermal stress. It also may have one layer of 'tinted' glass that isn't doing so much in terms solar rejection. The best way to tell is to open it partially and compare white clouds looking from the inside to determine glass 'color'. If the glass has a factory tint to it, you can ask around tint shops to see if they carry a reflective (mirror or semi-mirror) architectural film with relatively low absorption with much better solar reflective properties.. It has to be a film using a pressure sensitive adhesive system (already stick under the protective liner. Another option in the architectural film choices would be a dual reflective film. Dual (or DR) films have a layer of tint and a reflective layer laminated together to provide low reflective to the interior side and enhanced reflectivity to the exterior facing. They, too, have lower absorption rates with moderate to serious solar rejection. Again, a pressure sensitive adhesive is a must for automotive installations of architectural film. If there is a tint is the roof glass, any reflective appearance of reflective (or mirror type) film will be diminished in the same fashion as laminating a tint layer to a reflective layer to make dual reflect film products. So in essence from outside the vehicle the reflectivity of the roof would be less than placing mirrored film on relatively clear glass. Ceramics, ceramic-dyed and straight-dyed films are the most absorptive films on the market. Good luck in your search for the architectural film with pressure sensitive adhesive. You might see if SolarGard, Johnson, VKool, Huper Optiks, or Madico film still sells pressure sensitive adhesive version of their reflective films.

Back in my install days in Florida I had a client stop payment of their check. When the bank informed me I put together a letter to the client stating that I would have him served and see him in court. I went on to say I would likely prevail because he never came back to complain and the fact that Florida has a law dating back to, I think, 1914 that covers defrauding an innkeeper, which his actions would be treated in a similar manner. He caved and brought in the money for the job but I would not accept it until it included the fee for having him served. Few folks try anything to get a freebie. Another regular accused my employee of scratching the hood of his car. Funny thing was I tinted the car, not the employee and I knew I didn't scratch the car. He wanted me to give him a free job in exchange. I said, NO! He left in a huff and before his wife left she said she saw a cat clawing at the windshield mister that morning. When I left the manufacturing side of my career, I was asked if I would be starting a tint biz. 😂🤣 Oh HELL NO!

I cannot recall the number of times I've taken on this position with a customer. I call it the taillight refund. Like TD said, people suck; for the most part they are entitled, petulant children.

No, no. Only in make believe. This is where you playact the role of a client wanting to have their windows tinted. Have window glass dimension(s) ready and call. Explain you want an estimate on those measurements and you are looking for something in a medium darkness range. Play dumb about film and be careful not to let them in on you being a potential competitor. The key is to move the conversation toward your end goal of getting an estimate without them coming to your place. Once you have a price from them you can reverse determine they're pricing per meter or per foot. 2-3 different calls would give a good range to work with in respect to setting your own pricing.

It is unusual to simply do the windshield and front doors, unless they are already tinted. It's also a good idea to keep your expectations of performance from applied film at a low to moderate level. Film performs best when the vehicle is in motion or parked in the sun on a windy day. When parked in the sun all day with little wind, not so much. Any air movement across tinted glass carries the absorbed solar energy from the glass. No air movement leads to a tinted or clear window car heating up inside as the transmitted and or absorbed solar energy gets radiated toward to the cooler interior. This goes on until reaching the 'gosh this car is hot' when climbing in scenario. To that end, I would not suggest Stratos, since it has some of the highest absorption rates in automotive window film. FormulaOne film IS one of the gold standards of the industry and you will find their Pinnacle works well without the high absorption rates found in Stratos. I would also suggest something less expensive for an 11 year old car. There are plenty of brands out there that can serve you well in performance, life expectancy, and in terms of impact on your wallet. Examples would be: Global, Express, Xpel, LLumar, Madico, SolarGard, et al.

Double layering is not advised, however, it has been done extensively over the last 40 some years. The only issue I've ever experienced with double layers is when it comes time to replace it, the first layer will remove the scratch coat from the base layer. If you deal with a scratch coat that is known to easily scratch during installation, you might want to avoid double layering. No matter what tint is on the glass; single layer, double or triple, the car's interior is going to heat up. Slower depending on the film's performance, but the interior will still achieve the 'hot box take your breath' away temps over sun exposed time. Absorption level of film is a non-issue with tempered glass found in cars. The idea of absorption and how the performance of film plays out in the case of a car, is the faster the car moves, the more air passes over the glass, carrying away what has been absorbed. Hence, the car is cooler while in motion, but park that puppy in the sun all day and it'll still be hot when you climb in. Remember; heat always seeks out cooler air until a balance is struck on both sides of any barrier.

Wow! Chop job for sure. Why isn't the film all the way to the top of the back glass? WTF? Now, what to do; have film removed, get money back & go elsewhere, have them redo using different installer, or even trust them with any of the aforementioned?

There was a model back before 1996 that had seat sensory that would cause the headrest to rise. Fun, fun, fun to work around. Not much help, but just another story to be told.

Here's specs to compare:

Yeah, that's totally unacceptable. You may want to consider using a different DR film. I recently installed some Global DR Ceramic to my home and that stuff has zero curl ... even with the sun on the glass. It doesn't have the brownish look that LLumar's DR films have. Great clarity, liner releases easy with a scrap of tape and stays put with a soft squeegee pass before hitting it hard.

Request they ship you a new supply to complete the job, ensuring it does not come from the same lot number. They should also take back every bit you have left and issue a credit for the film you used as well. Nothing has changed in terms of using X100 on their CDF products; apparently it's just not communicated like it was back in the days I was working. Sales and tech reps are responsible for ensuring installers of the product are well informed. From what you've shared you have done all that can be done and if plain water and or alcohol mixed in results in curl, there is definitely a quality issue with the production run you have been furnished with. Call it in and go from there. Hopefully the client will understand.

No substitute for X100 that I am aware of other than vinegar. You'll soon nose why it's not a viable substitute. Any kind of soap slows the chemical bonding action of LLumar's CDF adhesive. You could precut the night before and roll each piece tightly, liner in, to assist in neutralizing the curl. Others may chime in with their experiences.

I have a new favorite film; DR Ceramic. Thank you Express Window Films. Clarity in poly, adhesive ... and a smooth hardcoat makes for a wonderful installation experience.

Say it like the sheriff from 'Cool Hand Luke': What we have here is, paralysis through analysis. Ta da, you have just learned how the manufacturers achieve 5% limo. Always keep in mind; the simple multiplication exercise will never be equal to a meter read.

Dayuum, you guys and gals are tough. It's been awhile since I've asked here before, but someone stepped up back then and sent me some Solyx version of dusted crystal. I was really wanting to see if I could get my hands on some crystalline/prestige. That's okay, I understand the reluctance. My second choice was Global DR Ceramic 45, which I have just placed and order through Express. Did not know they had custom cut, which works out better since I won't have extra sitting on the shelf in the basement like the remaining dusted crystal look-alike from Solyx. Thanks to whoever dealt with me on that purchase, it worked out great! Cheers.

Three layers of 30% VLT film using the simple formula and not a meter translates into .027, which is 2.7% VLT. .3 x .3 x .3 = .027 Three layers of 30% VLT film added to 70% VLT glass produces a VLT of .0189 aka 1.89% VLT. .3 x .3 x .3 x .7 = .0189

Dual reflective 15.

The calculation used is correct, however, it is not as accurate as light meter. Neither the 30% nor the 40% will get you 30% VLT on an exact 70% VLT glass. There's a +/- 3% manufacturing variation for film products and for glass, exampled here: 1) 30% film could be 27%-33% and 2) 70% glass could be 67%-70%. If your target is to be 30% by calculating (without meter) ... and, glass and film are precise, you would need a film with a precise VLT of 42.9%. Now that this is clear, there's the light meter variance of +/- 2% at full charge battery. Windshields must stay above 70%, that said, car mannies push it all the way to the limit. Side and back glass varies wildly from badge to badge having a base limit of 70% down to 20% (give or take) for solar control privacy glass (this glass, today, can achieve above 60% solar control and 95% UV reduction). I've metered a 2014 Cadi front door at 70% with solar control at 47%. A low end early 2000's Mitsubishi front glass metered at 80%. The newer glass is gaining performance while remaining in the 70% or above, including UV screening. Definitely high values with privacy glass. Keep it legal.

Tint industry fellows Some of you know me, some of you don't, and some of you know me strictly as tintguy1980. I recently bought a house that is in need of tinting so I'm reaching our to you to see if anyone can supply me with no less than 25 feet on a sixty inch roll. Somebody here has to have a partial laying around they don't mind letting go of. I'm looking for one of the following: Crystalline/Prestige 40 HO C45 Global Ceramic dual reflective 45 I am able to pay by CC or personal check (including shipping cost). If anyone can help PM me here or email tintrdav@aim.com Thanks.

That's a good thing because it allows you to choose as dark* as you want among the selection provided. The downside is if you choose a darker film (usually indicated by a lower VLT), you may not like how dark your room(s) will be. This is due to the fact that HP lowE already screens anywhere between 30-47% of the visible light. EDIT: HP lowE also provides +/- 60% TSER performance. Presuming yours is HP lowE2. By comparison, lowE4 has a 94% TSER. If it were me with your scenario, I would look toward Ceramic 45 (or C45). Why? Just look at the numbers on the attached chart and you will see the performance of C45 is slightly less than C35 on a dual pane system in terms of TSER (a couple digits different is negligible in this scenario), while providing a greater amount of visible light to transmit through (9 digits more is perceivable). There is no cake and eat to in using window film; you must strike a compromise between solar rejecting performance and visible light transmission. C45 is the compromise I see in this situation. That said, if you are okay with running lights during the day, then the darker of the sample you gave would be the most effective in combination with your HP lowE glazing. * The downside here would be the thermal stress placed on the seals that hold both layers of glass together in a dual pane glazing system. This would lead to premature seal failure. The compromise (film) I've given seriously reduces the potential for thermal stress seal issues. Best I can do for you.

How old are the windows? Age will indicate whether you have standard lowE or whether it's hi-performance lowE; unless you know? Do you know whether Andersen would void the warranty on your windows if you apply film?

Tell us; is it lowE or hi performance lowE? Your answer will make a world of difference in what use can install. Hi-performance lowE began to be the standard around the year 2000 and it can handle most window films. I personally wouldn't go darker than 35%, though some are known to go darker. If you don't know, play it safe(r). Their are a few film maker that put out a 70%. I'll let others chime in for brand names.

Well, I recently bought a house where both toilets were the old round, low to the floor type. Called a plumber to assess cost and he was trying to sell me a 650$ toilet. I says, I'll pass and asked if I bought toilets elsewhere, would he install them. He says, yes. It isn't much different when someone supplies the film. Back in my days, the most I would do is give a discount from full price. That would help cover the film cost the custy laid out. Of course, there is absolutely no warranty on product or installation; take it or leave. Oh and ah, don't muck a piece up and be sure they have enough. Even then I gave it my best at install, because ... the person just might be back within a year or two needing an R&R. There was no heating forming film in those days, so that adds a sour point to using customer provided film today. None the less, they are introduced to the business and will either be back for your professional grade film or become a word-of-mouth soundboard for you, or both. My .