Tintguy1980

Just like in the past, the car manny did this just to f**k with installers of film. 😆

I'm shocked that ATR 15 ghosted, unless they've changed the metal used or another film was substituted, ATR 15 should not ghost (I know this film far too well).

The automotive film with the hardest scratch coat is made by Eastman under the brand names FormulaOne and or LLumar. You'll know how easily a film will scratch when actuating the windows up and down. If they scratch pretty quick, that's an inferior coating. I do have to say that 3M Crystalline 40 has been on my car since early 2016 and there are zero scratches, adhesive is crystal clear, and the color remains stable. Possibly another label to use in the future.

Doing the math on this it sounds as though you received a fair price. The run around stuff doesn't reflect well on the dealer for sure.

If the effect wasn't there prior to film, then IMO you need another brand.

You can install any film to single pane tempered glass without issue (even blackout).

Shrinking film is directional: film will shrink in the machine direction (roll length) only, is the rule of thumb. Shrinking in the transverse direction (roll width) will produce what you have described. Most automotive windows will shrink best IF you place the machine direction horizontal, making sure any fingers (or excess) is located across the top and bottom horizontal edges. Your heat gun travel will be vertically upward toward the top and vertically downward toward the bottom edge, with some variations from vertical to chase the shrink. There are rare occasions whereby a window glass curvature will prompt aligning the machine direction vertically and shrinking toward the side. There's plenty of videos on shrinking found here by search and you can also find plenty on YouTube.

For Optivision 15 dual-reflective film. You will need to confirm whether or not the lowE glazing is a hi-performance lowE: low E2, low E3, or low E4. Hi-perf low E works by retaining man-made heat (being lost through the glass) AND repelling a substantial amount of solar energy. Hi-perf low E glass has the capacity to reject 60%, upwards to 94% (low E4) of the sun's energy. If the lowE is the old standard coating that works by retaining man-made it in the room (only), then I'd suggest it be a no go. If you need assistance in determining which type of low E coating you are facing, you can using a meter to determine the performance or you can read the following and learn a simpler way:

Here's a couple of possibilities, but they should be considered presumptive reaching: WIFI antenna in side mirrors may have receiver/connections in the door that could get wet? Stretch, since moisture from rain could intrude; engineers should/would design around this possibility. GPS receiver/antenna under rear dash (in trunk)? Moisture intrusion when rear window film was installed? Hmm, don't see this much these days (see ending sentence). Heavy metalized window film installed with GPS antenna under rear dash? NOT!? Heavy metalized window film for auto has been extinct for years. It would be helpful for defense purposes to know where the critical components of the two systems are located. If not in harms way of install solutions, then I'd call 'BS'.

UV degradation will vary depending on product construction: UV treated poly layers, UV protection in laminating adhesive, UV protection in mounting adhesive, and importantly, the quality of the UV protective product used. Only the top tier manufacturers are known to have UV protection through out the construction. Testing would require a sample of the original film from the date of installation (same lot number sample likely not available after 2 decades +) and comparatively measuring the pristine sample against the crud film while on the glass with same day/time sunlight shining through. A couple of measuring devices below: This meter example is likely more accurate than the second link. https://sperdirect.com/products/uv-light-meter-uva-uvb?currency=USD&variant=35844887183517&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwO6w3MPw9gIVUPzjBx3nwAMWEAQYASABEgJKjvD_BwE This one is obviously inexpensive, but may suffice for degradation measurements. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Walmeck-Portable-Digital-Ultraviolet-Radiation-Detector-Ultraviolet-UVI-Meter-Radiometer-Tester-Protective-Equipment-Testing/967112395?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101043425&&adid=22222222227479831776&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=563186498573&wl4=pla-1465957310631&wl5=9008686&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=278534602&wl11=online&wl12=967112395&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwO6w3MPw9gIVUPzjBx3nwAMWEAQYCCABEgKybfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds My guess would be <50% protection after 23 years and would certainly be shocked to fin it was greater than 50%

Late to the party but, yes, delaminating. No explanation that would survive a conspiracy test.

Sounds like you're looking for a baloney splitter/slicer. Here's some contacts to get you started: https://www.rosenthalmfg.com/what-is-a-slitter/ http://republicpackaginginc.com/category/converting-equipment/baloney-slicer/ https://www.ribamatic.com/ (this one appears to be in the EU)

Presuming the questions are related to cars: ~ Classes can serve as a jump start, not as a means of entering the market. Classes give a person insight into the 'how to' and into whether or not they are cut out for the trade. ~ Free visual resources can be found through a search of this site or over at YouTube. ~ Practice on your own vehicle first and foremost before asking friends and family to guinea pig their vehicle. You should be able to recognize your strengths and weaknesses by the end of friends and family. Personally, I was self-taught and was a natural (naturals are few and far between). It can take anywhere from a couple of months steady practice to in excess of 6, 8, 10+ months to achieve skills worthy of public payments. Everyone is different in their ability to hone their skills IF, they are capable of installing film. Things to ask yourself: ~ Am I an artist in any shape or form? Film just becomes another type medium. ~ Am I good with children? Patience is key. ~ Am I an engineer/McGyver type person who easily thinks through challenges in the moment? Installing film is a challenging task. ~ Am I good and steady with my hands (Not with the women but with other type delicate things such as window film)? Window film damages easily. ~ Ever successfully laid wallpaper, cupboard paper, vinyl or other large sticky backed material? This helps as a jump start. ~ Am I able to understand the correlation between thin plastic and the impact of a heat source directed at it? Window film has the capacity to expand when heated and shrink as it cools using direct heat to form film to curve surfaces. Mastery of this process takes the most time. If zero of the above asks fit you, I suggest another trade. 2 or more you have a chance and if all six, you might be a 2 monther. Good luck!

If you can find some Prell shampoo it, too, is deemed safe for film installation.

Working for a tint shop from 1980-82 I came to work to find a locked chain on the front doors. Turned out the IRS shut them down for back taxes. I then spoke with the owners, who owed me $2500 back pay, about settling up. They had no money, was the answer. So, I proceeded to make a list of items I would like to have from them, such as film, the schedule of work, leftover film supply, etc. and said they could sign it over or let a judge sort it out. They caved and once allowed back on the premises we all met and signed the agreement to hand over assets in lieu of what they owed. Thus began my journey on my own. That's my story, and I'm sticking to it!

When presented with a medical exemption request I would always clarify the condition; are they sensitive to light, or are they sensitive to UV, or both. This determines the best approach while staying within the guardrails of state law. If they are sensitive to UV light then a dark film isn't necessary and if they still ask that it be done, I'd refer them to another dealer. For instance, Lupus sufferers are sensitive to UV light from the sun and artificial (UV) light such as that put out by florescent bulbs, not necessarily visible light, so a legal tint will protect them. I lived with a lupus sufferer in my mid-20's and can attest to the fact it is not a fun disease. I suspect she did not live to 45. I always tinted to FL legal standards (1980-1996) and if anyone pushed me to do otherwise I'd hand them the phone book and say there's plenty of other listings that might do it for you. I'm not one of them. And, have only done windscreens for my cars or family members.

Well, I won't name it because I'm unsure since it's been about 15-18 years, but I believe they were a multi-location outfit and as I spy the curtain after a second glance, it could very well be.

Sounds fair to me ... just be open to dickering $$ with who you work with.

Simplest way to determine if glass has a lowE coating is to stand at the interior side of the glass and flick a Bic near the glass surface. You are going to look at all the flame reflections however dim they might be. Legend: Surface 1 is the outside surface of the outside pane (the weather exposed surface). Surface 2 is the inside surface of the outer pane (inside the dead air space between each pane). Surface 3 is the outside surface of the inner pane (inside the dead air space between each pane). Surface 4 is the inside surface of the inner pane (the interior room surface). The first flame reflection nearest you will be on surface 4, next flame reflection will be surface 2, next flame reflection surface 3 and so on to 4. A lowE coating is not found on surface 1 unless the window has been installed backwards and has lowE4 qualities or a single pane glazing that is installed backward. Surface 4 flame reflection will mimic the real flame in appearance. If the flame on surface 3 or and or surface 2 have a different flame color; leaning toward pink/red or green/blue, you have discovered the lowE coating. The fourth flame reflection on surface one may show some color from the light of the flame traveling through the lowE coating on surface 2/3 and it will be the faintest of all reflections. I am unsure what surfaces are used in a hi-performance lowE glazing system; whether they use surface 2, 3 & 4, a single surface at 2 or surfaces 2 & 3. Having a combination of coating on surface 2 & 3 might be hi-performance lowE and its flame reflection should be in the blue/green (unless they also use pink/red on surface 3). Somewhere in all this is lowE3 and lowE4, which I understand neither of them require window film at all because they are just that efficient at keeping solar energy out and man-made heat in. Confused? Just look for the color in the flame on surface 2 and or surface 3 and you have Hi performance lowE. Pink/red is standard lowE coating and that one raises red flags when installing highly reflective or highly absorptive window film to the inside glass surface. Time to bring your eyeballs back to center. 😊

I did what you are planning back in the earlier 90's in Naples FL. I did not own a shop there when I arrived and eventually bought a shop I freelanced for before leaving Naples. I have also owned shops, had installers for those and freelanced myself to install residential at a competitor's shop in the same town. Without owning my own place I did the following: I introduce myself as a Freelance Installer of tint, had my phone number, (biz) name and card with a facing that appeared like any other card. The card was larger than the standard and had a fold. When anyone flipped the card open, they would see a mini resume of my skills and experience level. I went around to different shops and dealerships and explained who I was, why I am there, and what my background was in brief. I would always point out the fact that every tint shop ( if that's where I was at at the time) has overflow or turn away or two they simply do not have the resources to handle at the time job. I encouraged them to call me and I'd check my schedule to see if I could be of service to them. I did this same approach for car dealerships. If I were to supply the film, they would get a reduced cost so they had room to mark up and make a buck on the deal as well. If they supplied the film I would ask for 35-40% of customer's cost (in this scenario I'm simply a contract installer). This is the trick, you have to do this without the appearance of building your own clients from the clients of other businesses; remaining neutral and available as freelance contract hire only. Good luck!

I visited a shop in Plano TX years ago where they had mounted a misting system above the area cars were to be tinted. They switched it on just before it was time to peel liners. It was similar to what grocery stores use in the produce dept. A little elaborate but it was effective. Thought of a couple more: when doing auto tint have a peel board on both sides of the car, this shortens the distance you travel to the glass with adhesive exposed patterns. Also, if you don't want to travel from board to car with exposed adhesive, you can lift the liner while spraying the adhesive with slip solution and then return the liner back into position. You then peel the liner again when you are in position to apply to glass. This second procedure may require misting the glass surface to ensure enough mobility once the adhesive hits the glass.

You can't really go wrong with the Madico name, they've been doing film since the genesis of the industry. In regards to dirt, well, it's everywhere. Here are some recommendations to minimize contamination of film before it touches the glass: - Use filtered water. - Clean spray bottles, spray tanks, and squeegees frequently. - If using a tank spray system with hose, splice in an inline filter and change regularly. - Tape off top and side vertical auto window gaskets, if felt. With rubber gaskets, a good clean wipe in lieu of tape. - In automotive, spray and squeegee clean any surface the film is to be laid on, whether the surface it is to be installed to, the outside surface of auto glass when hand cutting patterns and the peel board surface before each pattern is placed on its surface. - Spray mist the path from peel board to auto glass and mist the pattern (liner) surface on your peel board before peeling the liner. - Residential, lightly spray the area path to window before peeling the liner. - Do not have fans running during installation. - Do not wear clothing such as sweaters or other materials that easily shed fibers or collected airborne particles. - Rinse fingers tips if they will be in contact with the film's adhesive. Use only (rinsed) thumb and forefinger when handling exposed adhesive. - Keep fingernails clipped short. - Enure body hair (head, face, brows, etc.) does not pose a shedding threat. I would even spray mist my arm arm hair when in short sleeves and spray mist my head before entering the back seat when installing a back glass pattern. - Lightly mist back seat and headliner (caution should exercised with some headliners that are sensitive to water staining). - Ask the client to wash there car before they arrive or rinse the car yourself before entering the bay. Okay, I'll let others think of more. Good luck!

Exterior mounted Silver 15/20 or interior dual reflective Silver 15/20 (with silver facing to the outside). That is if the glazing system is Hi-performance lowE2, 3, 4, and dual pane with no lowE coating. Questionable on standard lowE glazing.

Dual reflective 25-ish on the side of the glass looking for privacy, keep the lighting equal on both sides of the glass, and you get to see through (at that time). Want them NOT to see through sometimes, simply turn the lights out on the film side of the glass and make sure there is no light from windows on the privacy side.

They don't want to look or feel ignorant, which is counterintuitive to achieving a point of 'Wow, thanks, I did not know that (aka light bulb moment)'.