Tintguy1980

And to you and yours.

LLumar DR series, if still available, is practically a dead ringer in look and performance to Night Vision for less. Global DR Ceramic is another that leans to the smoke look rather than LLumar and 3M's Night vision. 35% VLT would suffice.

You may already know the following. If the grooves are from long time use go with the above recommendations, otherwise, you might consider re-calibrating blade pressure, check for damaged blade point, clean the blade tip with a sweep or two using a tooth brush, and or replace blade if damage to tip is noted. When repositioning the strip (flipping or replacing), ensure there are no high / low spots. Those strips should last a long time without carving occurring when pressure is dialed in with a precision balancing act between cutting usable material only and not cutting cleanly.

I have a living room with windows on the east and south and knowing what I know about the effectiveness of even the darkest film, which comes with hazards of thermo stress on the dual pane glass ... I set the TV in the corner between the two windows. Viewing the TV and the windows in the same field of vision. There will always be a reflection of the windows on the TV, just muted. Curtains are the best solution for this issue.

Sure looks like auto glass technology is advancing. I remember the coating on Lexus and some Toyota models could be removed with a glass polish. It took some effort to get to the glass itself and that was an anti-fog coating technology. This IR/UV coating is looking like it is more robust. I wouldn't want to be the one experimenting with whatever product to attempt removal of it. The UV rating is 99%+ reduction, but they limit what they say about IR performance to: Mitigates sense of intense heat on the skin ... Controls rising cabin temperatures. The link is to a company that apparently is deep into providing glass with this coating and they certainly limit info. Take a look for yourself. This appears to be something that could/would expand to more brands/models. It sure is going to put a new slant on selling film and installing film to cars. https://www.cgc-jp.com/products/search_category/automotiveglass/ircut.html

I agree with TD. I'll answer with a question; as long as you've been in business before moving to a new city, how many times did you receive a cold call via email? This was always my plan: go to dealer > request a brief meeting with decision maker (sales/service mgr) > intro > present reason for being there > close on services, if there is interest. Win some, lose some and in most cases, there isn't any easy way other than plain old shoe leather, a smile and a handshake.

It appears film suppliers are tightening up on warranty claims. If I was still installing, all they ask for would stick in my crawl for awhile and when it comes to vin # I'd take a picture of it and attach to the submission. F**k writing/typing the whole thing down. Then again, the consumer should be the one to register while the installing firm need only supply VLT & lot/roll number to the client via their receipt. Change is the only constant in our lives. Ugh!

Don't know about the best, but I do know about these folks; Ener-Gard Energy Products. They'll sell you film with a stiff upper lip.

Diversify.

I worked with anyone that touched windows for whatever reason; whether replacement, new install (construction), a broken pane replacement, or window cleaners. This was done ONLY on a referral basis with no $$ exchanging hands either direction; just pure refer to you and you refer to me. As TD has shared, there are relationship traps when getting too cozy.

Reminds me of Tintwizards method of blasting the entire film. Don't see any concerns other than just don't drop the thing and possible mobility issues in old age from repetitive movement with the weight of the heater(s) used. Seems, as though heat is being dispersed over a wide area, moving along, and at a distance off the surface in a similar fashion to control excessive heat exposure; same as what a heat gun does over a smaller area. My guess would be temp doesn't exceed that of using a torch, which was always given the stink eye from tech support, because it was 'suspected' of causing chemical changes in adhesive and coloring. Haven't heard any long term reporting to back the suspicions. Do eat your spinach before jumping on board with this. Then watch your arm build massive muscles. You'll be going around with one popeye arm and well, a wimpy arm in comparison. 😆 💪 By the way, I remember seeing the Global shrink of a VW back glass way back about the time stated.

Simple. Call them, explain what happened and that you'll make arrangements for remedial action.

What Bham left out was the fact that a seasoned installer would, 1) not leave creases and 2) use a heat resistant hard card as a heat-block to protect weatherstrip material. Heat is used to speed up drying in areas where it might be needed. Wow, I can't believe they left those creases.

Inquire SolarGard Films (unable to remember maker) or LLumar Films (maker Eastman Chemical).

There are *some* that dislike 3M for whatever reason, that said, 3M is a powerhouse in the window film industry. I have their Crystalline/Prestige 40 on my Jeep windows and I can affirm the performance and longevity of the product. 7years in full sun parking and no sign of degradation of adhesive clarity, color or performance. If I were in your situation of looking at a 70% VLT film, Prestige would be my choice (Edit: and I am not beholden to any one product). I have attached a snapshot of Therm-x 70 published performance values for your review and a link to the source. Also, know that the marketing wording on the product includes the phrase 'proprietary blend of metals' as read on a couple Google listings. This may or may not be a problem for electronic use indoors, since any metallic coating is rather light, but why chance it. https://www.huperoptikusa.com/downloads/

Hmm, it may not be rocket science but it sure falls under physics and meteorology. Humidity does slow dry time; almost everyone knows this. Now, putting the car in full sun is like putting it in the dryer. Oh and ah, just a small tidbit of info about pressure sensitive adhesives used mostly on automotive film; the adhesive is already cured during the manufacturing process. Most say 'cured' or 'cure time', when in fact, it is known as dry or drying time.

Relatable. Relatable. Relatable. ----------------------------------------------------- In my case I am incognito by request of my last employer. Ain't touching anything else here.

Yeah, try driving behind more big trucks. Or, park under a black walnut tree hoping one strikes just the right place. There's also the absorbent rope or twisted towels at the bottom trick to catch moisture, while using the sweating method where there's good chance the film will peel off with adhesive. It IS summertime, right? Edit: don't use a black bag to do the sweat method lest you really do want to crack it. Opaque or white will do.

I was too long in the torso to do the seat fold down approach. Remember those old corvettes with bowed glass and vertical defrost that wouldn't pop open? Now that's where you break out a plank, fold down the upright of the passenger seat and crawl in to work on your back. I did a similar style by backing into the back seat, cheek walk to a central position, and turn my orangutan arms/twist torso toward the back glass. Well, up until L5 spoke harshly to me. Then it was a forward dip in, maneuvering legs to have feet on floor board and resting knees at the edge of the back seat. Back seats have always been about getting it done; depending on the 'it', if you get my drift. The taller one is the tougher.

I'll bite. My back was jacked before I even started tinting; slipped L5 vertebrae with mild spina-bifida, mild scoliosis at lower thoracic, anterior thoracic, mild spina-bifida at T1, reverse cervical curve, and bone spurs at C6/C7 have grown together. Tinted for 35+ years. So, ask me how my back is doing. The upside is I don't have to tint anymore, but I do my own cars and house (slowly and carefully), I can still walk, and I only run for my life. Unable to lift more than 25 pounds. I cannot climb ladders but will do it to save a life. My low back gives me grief daily, my neck is f**cked and bursitis has limited the use of my shoulders. I exercise to keep necessary movement and will do so until they throw dirt on my face. Now, tell me ... what did you say about your back?

https://expresswindowfilms.com/

Eastman's LLumar brand use to have colors, but only sold in 60". Not sure they still do. Solar Graphics from SolarGard: https://www.solargraphicshome.com/film-colors.html

Appears to be laminated glass with each glass layer being thin and prone to cracking easily with the right amount of stress in just the right spot. And, may not even be heat strengthened, if they like to cut corners. Edit: Don't use any metal pull back tool for the weatherstrip at the bottom; it may crack this glass, too, if pressure is forcefully applied while the tool is touching the glass edge.

RHE50 is usually an exterior mount film product, however, it can be used inside on sunroofs. A dual reflective 50 (or DR 45 from Global) would be the middle choice and the top choice, if it were me, would be 3M Crystalline 40. Edit: Oooo ... yes, VKool is another good choice.

Storefronts are tricky when it comes to film products; you go too light, you still get healthy amounts of heat build up inside, you go too dark, it looks like you're closed and displays are harder to see. Prestige 70 is also available as an interior surface install and still maintains impressive performance. I wouldn't go darker than Prestige 60 so as to maintain visibility into the store; presuming you have a clear dual-pane or single pane glazing system.