no ma'am

I was around for some oversized shit like that when I was a helper. But the straight edges up in the center of the window cut sides, gotta do what you gotta do  didn’t look bad. I’m sure there was more measuring and planning than I remember. 

Polarized lenses don’t work well with film, makes things look oily and has a noticeable rainbow colored appearance like you are wearing 3-d glasses. All films will show this in my experience. See if non polarized lenses are available.

I’ve stuck both classic black and the 1.2. Prefer the look of 1.2 but that latter ain’t too bad and lays like butter on what I’ve used it on. 

Wtf is AE ceramic? 

pinnacle 30/15 Aston vantage 

Suntek needs you llumar does not. Deal with what you can get for now but keep your eye on lulu. Better product 

Use atc and offer atr as an upsell after you get it figured out.

Yeah you could say the back glass is more (challenging)  than most cars. Doesn’t look it but.... it can be very time consuming.

Just now, Newtinter2020 said:

Its pretty much any car that i do and usally i find them around the middle part of the window. I will be tinting a few cars tomorrow so i will definitely take some pics when i see them tomorrow 

If you’re two staging (half peeling) this could just mean you’re not flushing down right or not using enough slip. But yeah bring the pics.

I don’t think a blue max is ideal for cleaning, too stiff imo. what windows are you fighting in what area of the window, and what car is probably the most useful info. Pics would be more helpful than anything. Here’s my mobile/sidework stuff.

Probably dirt, post pics and explain your cleaning process, install process and type of film and slip

Man they’re all junk. Build quality is on par for a mid 90’s Korean car

On 2/25/2020 at 5:23 PM, baker667 said:

Hello all - skin cancer "survivor" here (2x basal cell).  Just got my front passenger and driver windows tinted with ceramic tint.  It's pretty good, the low angle haze is a bit annoying but I can see it has improved in the 2 weeks since installation.  It was done at Tint World.

 

I am looking to do my windshield to take advantage of heat blocking and UV protection in the coming so cal summer.  My car is OLD so I don't want to invest too much, but want a good balance of price and clarity.  I do not want the windshield to "look" darker but I'd love the protection.  I just want to avoid the low angle haze on the windshield because I feel it would drive me bonkers.

 

Any recommendations on what brands to look for?  Thank you

Tell us what area you’re in and I’m sure one of us can take care of you or refer you to someone we know? Also what vehicle?

Your plotter pattern could be to big on the bottom under the rear deck? It’s gonna vary on that car for sure. Mass produced And my pattern from lulu is huge  at the top if I remember right.

59 minutes ago, Bean3M said:

Obsidian 3M, I’ve also used ceramic it. Plotter mainly, I use a handle squeegee with an Orange Crush bit. I start from the top where a 3rd brake light would be and go straight down as low as my hand will allow and then go right from the middle of the glass and take it all down from there. I do the same on the left side of the split I made and then user a slammer tool to secure the bottom and that’s where the fingers will some times come back. For the bottom I use the slammer starting from the middle and work my way to the side In both directions. 

I like the slammer but I would lead and or follow with a softer tool like the conquerer and get a tri edge reach man. It is an excellent tool. I’ve got 1 booked Saturday will update. I prefer a soft tool first along the bottom edge, and use a combination of tools similar to the slammer. The paddle, bulldozer, slim foot occasionally.  The titan was cool before the reach happened.

1 hour ago, Bean3M said:

New here, does anyone one else have a bit of trouble with the back glass window ? I’ll first use a dryer sheet or soup the glass down and place the film on and do the H figure tack down and do it in quarters. After that I wet shrink to get the fingers I didn’t see out and yet still I get pesky fingers on the bottom corners from time to time when I install the film. 

What film? Also you hand cut or plotter and describe your squeegee method and pattern.

This is an old defroster line with buildup either from corrosion or a sticker? Not sure... this is nothing compared to the trash that is your whole defroster. Even if it never had tint installed those old german cars had very thin elements that disintegrate when you touch them. So what I’m saying is The film will look like shit unless either it doesn’t have a defroster, it’s a new not Chinese back window or you razor the lines off.

give us a picture of your back window 

These cars are not built well at all did my first set of front doors on 1 today. I’m truly amazed at the stupidity of the small details on this nerd machine  I’ve never seen a frameless window act this kind of stupid before. 

I’ll take one tonight it’s on my girls windshield 

Looks like air 80 

2 hours ago, TomTint said:

 

 

    We are 100% flat glass, no auto at all. I can see installing Air80 with a small yellow turbo or black one... but our typical squeegee for FG is a 8" blue max.... that's a no go on that film. 

Fusion flat out works great 

Your rear defroster (if it has one and it’s the original back window) will have oxidized ( i think that’s what’s happening anyway) suspect aluminum in the conductor and or super thin elements that just fall apart if you clean the window. They’ll have a white haze on them from the outside and appear black inside looking out. They just don’t age well on a lot of German cars.

On 2/19/2020 at 6:53 PM, alancorp said:

 

Do you have any experience with the autobahn air ceramic 80? Does that scratch easily also?

I install air 80 regularly, it can be said that it scratches easily with certain tools that wouldn’t do so with lulu’s other films. However I’ve had great service out it and the only time people have had issues would’ve involved sticker removal. Either using a razor blade or scratch coat coming off with the sticker. Not really the films fault.