Tint Slayer
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Posts posted by Tint Slayer
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If you have 1/8" extra on each vertical side you can make your top 2 edge radius just slightly bigger than 1/8", so when you place the film you look at the top 2 corners and line them up so you can easily start shaving where the film goes from above to below the glass edge and also where that intersection meets right at the rubber.
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i have a 4'x6' glass table top, about 3/8 thick and weighs a lot and is hard to break, i just lean it against the wall in portrait position. Prior to that i had 2 Pieces of 3'-6x3'-6 butted up to each other in landscape position to be 3'-6x7'-0. Not the end of the world using 2 pieces together, possibly do-able for a 2 pc mobile peel board.
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On 9/19/2018 at 8:42 PM, ErieTint said:
Not yet but I'm liking the idea @Tint Slayer!
$15 on Amazon
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On back glass, I cut with my right hand holding the knife and i also hold 2 or 3 fingers of my left hand alongside the blade with the left most finger at the glass edge, as an edge guide, and i keep that distance from the edge continuous as i cut that side. Other edge of glass my hands are reversed. The top cut is the easiest to practice it. Just mentioning it as an option for blind cutting.
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17 hours ago, tools said:
what else do you use this for.. I may buy one.. if I can find an alternate tool usage...
is the blue.. soft, medium or hard ?
Blue is the softer but still stiff, i've used the stiffer firm yellow for cleaning the glass trying to get away from stainless steel blades, but went back to ss blades, though it does work i just can't wrap my head around not using ss blades. The yellow and blue don't feel super different. The blue i use for the quarter glass, tucking, and some tight squeegeeing i keep it clean, i use the yellow for rougher cleaning and prying that i wouldn't use the blue for, i use it like how some use hard cards and tri-edges, bumping, tucking, edging etc just depends. Should note that the small end is a 1/2 inch wide version of the wide end, so you can use both ends of it.
If you go to the Interwest Tools website they explain softness and durometer of the tools in their descriptions and have videos showing a lot of the tools in use.
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19 hours ago, thechief121 said:
Awesome thanks for the advice guys I appreciate it got a orange crush on order I've pretty much just used a yellow turbo for this which is probably why
Yellow turbo should be ok and i prefer softer squeegees on back glass myself, next time just do more than one pass and put some power behind the last one. You want a softer squeegee for back glass because the defroster and dot matrix are raised and you have to get down in the valleys, a hard squeegee kinda rides the tops. Everyone does it different, this is my preference, i'm not knocking anyone's method.
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Who has the cheapest shipping? While we're on the subject, seems like some are quite high.
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Blue Quick Foot, both ends of it are nice and thin for tucking.
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I don't like the green hue or the brown/bronze hue and now the blue hue is bugging me a little lately. What film is the blackest looking without a different color hue about it? Also, has any customer ever mentioned the hue?
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I've bought a roll of the Avery NR Pro (used to be Hanita) from them to check out and I've bought tools from them when i did. They're the friendly helpful human kind of place. Matt works there. It's a class outfit, all straight shooters. I'm looking to buy a 3 gal TintKeg from them soon. No complaints at all.
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22 hours ago, quality tintz said:
When you guys top-load do you peel the liner half ways down or 3/4 down???
Say you're looking at it on the outside when you just made the top cut and the window's down about an inch, you wouldn't want to pull it lower than where you'd see the top of the door in that position. If it's above the top of door on the outside then it's above on the inside.
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Ever try a turbo in an unger handle?
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6 minutes ago, quality tintz said:
Saw on amazon do you select fine when ordering when you shave do you use only upward strokes how do you use it bro....when you file is there a certain way you do it with the file lines if that makes sense like how the file lines are angled??
Only push the file upward and don't pull, keep the file vertical at 12 o'clock and your file stroke should go up in the direction of 1 to 2 o'clock, and try to cut as much as you can per stroke. That's why i like the longer files. You'll likely need a small hobby file for each end at the vertical gaskets.
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22 hours ago, Tintoz said:
any updates on where to get the fine tooth bastard file?
I use a Fine, Single cut instead of Bastard cut, Bastard is for coarse filing i believe and may be more abusive on the glass (if you press excessively, but i'm sure you can finesse it). The Single cut Fine file is less abusive.
I've tried them both, just my opinion, i attached a link to the exact items i bought, they come in different lengths.
This is my 8 inch Fine, Single cut file (rated as fine) - http://a.co/d/8r35aQg
This is my 10 inch Fine, Single cut, Bastard cut file (rated as coarse) - http://a.co/d/bMISjq3Read and save this pdf about files and proper usage: http://www.nicholsontool.com/MagentoShare/media/documents/nicholson-guide-to-filing-2014.pdf
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Next order i'm going to try out the green turbo for cleaning, i haven't heard of many people liking that pink clean.
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I was looking to check out the green turbo for cleaning (yes i like buying tools to further confuse myself as to which tool to use out of the 10 tools that do the same thing), is there any difference between the regular green turbos and the Fusion green turbo? I've gotten yellow turbos in the past (not fusion) that aren't the same exact hardness.
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I will say you did an amazing job of getting the visor off and doing no damage to the lower film.
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On 2/5/2018 at 11:22 PM, Whyme said:
It’s one thing to say your defrosters don’t work in a month from when you did it , and another 6 months . That’s hard one . I’ve never had a customer come back to me and say it didn’t work after I removed and tinted ! I’ve been tinting for over 15 years . I use a soft scrubby , rubbing alcohol and something to remove the glue from my tint company solargard . plus simple green to sweat the old tint off . And I always give the warning that I don’t know wether the old tint will come off well , and I will need to scrape it off .
How is that Simple Green? Been hearing about it a bit, does it loosen up the film better than ammonia?
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I think the guy in the video is just showing off, but It will work, just press hard and fast with the corner edge of the ruler, use a stiff stainless steel ruler. Video it. Doing the edges on each end may suck, alternative would be to use an 8" or longer fine single course file.
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14 hours ago, jh812 said:
Pretty long thread on it in the makes and models section. Here's the link also a video.
https://www.tintdude.com/forum/topic/84679-2017-civic-hatchback/
Paul Romo has some really good videos. Seems like a real pro.
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2 hours ago, TNTLady said:
Rocks....I paint rocks
You rock
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16 hours ago, poppawilly67 said:
i use solarfx ultra color stable film and love it. shrinks like butter and holds its color.
Ever try the CarbonFX? What's the color like on the Ultra?
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I must be doing something wrong with my Orange Crush, even got the newest most recent one and it occasionally skips and leaves marks on the film that the blue and clear max never did, everyone seems to like it and it does work good other than my skip issue, so it must be my technique, i'm trying not to flaw the product, It must be me. I also have the issue of moisture behind so when i bear down to get rid of it, it skips.
I've been using the yellow Go Doctor for sides and the softer red Go Doctor on rear glass and have been liking it.
Anybody ever tried flipping the blue max squeegee blade in the handle and holding the handle backwards when you squeegee?
Wax pencils or sharpies???
in Window Tinting - General Discussion
Posted
You want Stabilo Pencils for that kind of detail, they're made for writing on glass or film, i use them often. Stays on but can be wiped off. It's like the China markers but with a fine point. Get a cheap electric pencil sharpener, don't totally 100% sharpen the point it will just break:
http://a.co/d/eYQUe13