Tint Slayer

17 hours ago, Bham said:

I remember when everyone was trying to be first in the alphabetical listing.  

Everybody was coming up with any name that started with " A " or "A one " or " ABC" or " AAA" or " A + " or " Ace "   etc, etc.....   

Yeah yellow pages friendly names!  everyone found out the 1 came before A so every section started popping up with 1A....  or 123...  for names lol
Now it needs to be like you said search friendly and a name that gets into similar searches. 

16 minutes ago, redgar826 said:

Orange crush, pink clean and the redline. 

Really sharp corners on that red, i wonder how long they stay that sharp, even if they wear a little still sharper corner than the other 2 in the pic. Gonna check one out. Thanks

Some dude in one of the other groups told me he had a 24" plotter that he had gotten for nothing and was using it but not much on back glass. So i called around assuming a 24" would be cheaper, oddly enough it's not much cheaper and not worth buying a 24" over a 40". I even called the people at FVD for some guidance on the 24" or 40" and it was the same, not big enough price difference to warrant buying a 24". the 40" is best  bang for buck as it's also one of the more popular in other trades as well.

Back when i was doing steel drawings in the 90's we plotted out our 24"x36" drawings on a 40" pen plotter. Maybe call a couple architectural firms and ask if they have an old plotter for sale as most have changed from plotters to large format printers and copiers in the past decade.

On 10/10/2018 at 9:57 PM, redneckj said:

I just buy another one.  Tint tools are cheep.  

and also not wise to have just one of any important tool, i rarely buy one of anything, especially with shipping costs i try to get as much as i can into one shipment. 

One of the other kinda local tint guys called me and asked why my price was X amount for X door car and don't i think that was a little too cheap? Yeah i guess it was, so a little communication raised my price and we're all happy. 

i've used a 24" wide inch roll of "carpet protection tape" (basically a wide roll of masking tape, Amazon has it) to place over the hard part to cut of the glass and mark it with a thin pen and use it as a template to make the cuts for the odd shapes, but i still do the straight cuts in place. I also have a beam compass to help with the round cuts. It also works good for templates on quarter glass and rear glass of old pickups etc.Also good for masking off parts of car interior for sloppy jobs.

12 hours ago, redgar826 said:

Best damn squeegee blade for auto hands down. Love mine. They glide across the film and remove ridiculous amounts of water as well. Take your current squeegee and do an initial pass then follow up with the redline and see for yourself! I used to use a little softer squeegee for rear windows but have the redline a shot for the last few I have done and it’s awesome!! 

Hey Ryan, I see the redline is the same durometer/hardness as the blue max, how does it compare to the blue max? and what thickness redline are you using?

When you franky, head under or over? Which is cleaner? LoL

I think whatever you do the most, franky or reverse roll, will be the cleanest after doing it for a bit. Just like the top or bottom load argument, if it's your daily deal it'll be your cleanest out of repetition because you're mindset is a clean install.

13 hours ago, tools said:

using white card currently for sides

 

you can buy these cards anywhere..in a rush?...order from amazon. they sell a triple color kit for like 10 bucks

Yeah i've seen those on Amazon, mostly Ehdis or Foshio, try those out, all 3 cards on Amazon Prime are cheaper than one card from a tint supplier. But over time test out other cards and methods. Or just use your white card, just fold a small rag or paper towel over the edge of the card. Try one fold, then 2 fold, get a feel for what works best for you, firmer or softer. 

7 hours ago, nickpeng said:

The tools named Turbo.Is this tool for shrink molding or just for scraping water?

No, you need a hard card, those are squeegees for pushing liquid and made for that purpose. Search for hard cards. Get a gold hard card if you like a very firm card with little resistance pushing on the film, or a softer blue hard card if you like it to have a slight grippy drag when pushing the card. The blue is less likely to scratch. If you have a scratching problem then most of the stuff you need will be blue colored. Just my 2 cents.

Also. most in this group refer to water scrapers as squeegees, just FYI.

It should be able to withstand the same temps as on the car, but i'd make them room temp for install 

10 hours ago, TQtinting said:

I’ve used a wax pencil before and mark the windshield. Rubs right off when you’re done. 

Same

Would kick up a bunch of contamination, if you use it do it outside your shop.

7 hours ago, Super Dave said:

practice bro, I never reverse rolled till recently. Start with easier windows you normally wouldn’t RR, till you get more comfortable. 

What's your opinion on it? Cleaner/better than frankenstein? 

6 hours ago, Brian01 said:

Hello

 

Bringing this thread back once more.  Anybody in the midwest do training?  I had planned on going to Flat Rock Stan this month but he has flaked out and I cant get any info from him or his wife.

Try @flat rock stan again, this was a busy month in the competition and shmoozing world of tint, and i think Stan is/was overseas. Literally everyone in this group will back him up as a highly respected straight shooter. 

12 hours ago, tools said:

update.

 

started pushing out the line bubble with chisler...

then just used my finger and 85% of the bubble is gone just by pressing with finger..the leftovers i used your tips and pushed with my finger towards defroster..small circular part start of the line bubble remains ..but now not noticeable.

 

the small bubble 2nd photo just pressed around with finger and 95% pressed down.

 

managed to also press down a 1/2" finger which was stubborn after install down by bottom edge by dot matrix.

 

tks for the tips guys.

 

sometimes just need to let these suckers dry out a bit and they will press down

How long was it from when you applied the film until pressing those fingers down? They stayed down good? 

4 hours ago, quality tintz said:

Why heat the chizler???

"Lil Chizler you can heat up and bend a corner and use the rounded end for rubbing that out and crushing specs"

Heat it and bend it like a knee, so it has a hard rounded not sharp bend.

Wooden popsicle stick is a great tool for pushing out that little stuff and crushing specs. Also if you have a pink Lil Chizler you can heat up and bend a corner and use the rounded end for rubbing that out and crushing specs. Just mentioning.

Not sure what i was going to see with that subject title lol

On 9/22/2018 at 7:09 PM, Stewy said:

One of the glass company we do work for gave us 2 48in by 72in and installed it on the wall for $180. He hook us up with some strong tempered glass. It works for us. We also have another 48in by 72in mobile peel board. This peel board is acutally pretty sick. Dont mind the mess it was busy today and we have a shit ton of boxes that came in.

Does that ever feel like it'll topple towards you? I want to draw up something like this to make for myself and i'm never sure of how far i need to make the base come away from the glass to keep it stable. 

On 9/29/2018 at 3:45 PM, ErieTint said:

 

I like some things about it and other things I think PrecisionCut does better. For example; with PCS there is (what I would call) a "cut table" where your patterns get loaded to. In DAP there isn't anything like that. Just a matter of adjusting and figuring the differences out.

 

It did save my butt two weeks ago however. Had a 2011 BMW 328i in the shop and DAP had patterns that PCS did not. Full ceramic treatment too, would have been a big job to not be able to complete cleanly.

 

If it weren't so expensive and/or business was better, I would honestly consider running both pieces of software.

 

The kicker with both of them is film. Kind of a "buy film from us for cheaper software operation" type deal.

Ugh, i can't stand the 2 price system but i get it, i just can't stand not getting the good deal. 

I will say I keep hearing good stuff about DAP. 

Wow that was cool. I remember my brother trying a can of spray tint on his car when i was little, think he got it from the J.C. Whitney catalog lol. How were removals back then?

On 9/27/2018 at 10:17 PM, ErieTint said:

I subscribe to PrecisionCut through LLumar.

 

Also currently testing out DAP from Xpel on a short trial.

Hey man, how you liking the DAP?

15 hours ago, Luke4efc said:

Yes sorry should've been a bit clearer before. I put the film on the outside after spraying the surface with soapy water before trying to shrink. I've since read about using a soap bar and letting the lather dry on the glass before drawing an H pattern with a damp cloth. Perhaps that may be where I was going wrong as it did just feel like I was pushing water around when shrinking last time.

 

You hear the "pros" say that it's all about the film but I've always had the feeling that it's just a trade secret to reduce competition from new businesses.

 

I'm a bit like a dog after a bone when it comes to this sort of stuff; I end up getting frustrated and keep going till I'm happy with it.

Sometimes the baby powder instead of soap or dryer sheets is better for a novice. I still use baby powder on the glass when i shrink the back glass then after i'm done i'll spray the glass under the film with slip and then also do a wet shrink where i look for fingers, this way if the fingers pop up on the outside when it's wet then you'll see them also on the inside when it's wet and being installed. 

As for film i agree with @no ma'am Garware makes products worldwide, just different names like the films you mentioned are made by garware. Some of us favor Garware manufactured products. 

On 9/24/2018 at 3:18 PM, Bham said:

Royalties.  

 

If he is making money off a product that he makes but is using corporate logos to do so, they are going to want their cut.  

 

Especially if they didn't authorize it to begin with.  AKA = copyright infringement and Trademark laws     

 

Corporate companies like these are not going to just let you make money using their logos with getting something for it.  

Not a road I would want to go down.  Just my two cents.  

 

edit.... The University of Alabama went after a cupcake shop for using their logo without permission.  Something that seems so small became a big deal when the cupcakes started selling like hotcakes.  They put a stop to it real quick.  

May be able to avoid liability by selling the box without the logo and including a free sheet of custom decal printing. If you're not making money on the decal, the big guys can't get a cut, and the decal is custom so not your property.