Tint Slayer

On 11/16/2018 at 8:26 AM, scgolfer88 said:

link to these? Im in the market for a new pouch and looking for something different.

https://dirty-tools.com/ 

On 11/8/2018 at 9:06 AM, WearTheFoxHat said:

Check  out their install vids.

 

Not a lot of views

 

 

 

 

 

I like the graph on the liner, that'll help with square cuts and measuring

Go where the money is, people will tell you all their dreams for you and then change their minds when you're there if they feel like it. It seems like they're looking to you to bring all this business, keep that in mind, they may be expecting you to make it a money maker and if it doesn't guess who's to blame. Go where the money is.

Do you have a picture of a good top edge from one of the other doors? Want to see how you're cutting.

@Ziapro Bingo! :-)

@Bubbles i was a certified welder as well

i started out as a Union Ironworker climbing steel in NYC in the 80s (also owned a Steel Fabrication shop for a few years, did structural steel and misc), i was a Project Manager on large steel projects in NYC in the late 90s/early 2000's and currently a Steel Detailer (i draw up every piece of steel in a building and it's my main gig). You know how it is, can't just have one thing going. Currently when steel drawing work slows down the Tint work picks up so it's a good balance.

As far as the peel board, i've seen a few out there made of metal, i'm trying to get someone to give the measurements of a good metal one that i (or you) could make out of steel. I'm open for any suggestions on how to draw it up.

Call local storage places, some have storage units you can get a car in with doors open and cheaper than full blown rent sometimes, call around and tell them exactly what you want to do, they may have an area you can use per car. I know one location that has an open bay on the weekends, if i use that i give the owner $20 per car i tint. During the warmer weather you could probably use a multi-level public parking garage to at least have a little cover. 

Post pics when you do it, would like to see how you did.

On 11/1/2018 at 8:23 PM, theexceed said:

Recently found this Plotter on Amazon and a little skeptical.
53-inches for $400. I want a plotter for window tint and vinyl.
Tried contacting the sellers but no response.

The images are deceiving and not sure if it can run window tint programs.

 

Any help would be great.

You'd buy something that you couldn't contact the sellers on? But i get it, i always look to see if i can find that lucky me cheap deal too. I would say give the model number and info to the tint software companies and see what their input is, they may have to write drivers for off brand plotters and this one may not be compatible at all, and they would know if anyone is using that model name with any success. 

20 hours ago, TQtinting said:

You make a good point. I could see that happening. I’ve always gotten super clean work this way. If it ever back fired on me I wouldn’t know it yet. But it makes sense. 

I'm going to give it shot, it should also probably reduce static, thanks for the input @TQtinting 

If you're "practicing" on other peoples cars you shouldn't charge them anything. You want them to pay for you to learn? Would you pay a mechanic to practice on your car? Also, not charging is a better motivation to get real good real quick so you can charge correctly when you're no longer practicing and know what you're doing.

On 11/3/2018 at 8:51 PM, TQtinting said:

One time I tinted a Jeep Renegade or as I liked to call it at the time the “ dog hair Jeep from hell”

 

and i misted the air, the cab of vehicle, and myself lightly and I could see dog hair floating in the air fall straight to the ground.

 

I do all of these things before I ever even peel my liner I know for fact it’s made my work cleaner with less F ups. 

I get that, and it makes sense, but i see it as coming straight down onto my work i just cleaned, like do the hairs ever land on a freshly cleaned surface when you do that? How do you avoid that if you spray right over your work? 

I drew this one up, never made it, if anyone has any tips to improve this i'm all ears i think i may need to add a brace on the bottom legs, this one is wood but i also do steel work so would like to draw up one of the steel ones i see people on here have if anyone wants to give me the dimensions.

34 minutes ago, quality tintz said:

That's why you spray your film sideways and you mist sideways not straight into your work..common sense.....yeahhhh!!!!

What? Did you read what i wrote?

Misting the air may grab floating contaminants weighing them straight down into your work instead of them floating away, especially if you're misting right over your work. This is what i tell myself when i don't do it.

Always spray down from just under the top then from the center away and passed the lower 3 sides, saturate with minimal distance in each direction, basically don't let any water run back onto film. If you 2 stage peel it upside down.

i've heard of people tinting over it then removing both, just mentioning, i've never done it

Use whatever method you normally use to shrink, then do a wet shrink, if you wet the glass/film and squeegee it out you should see where the surprise fingers are, it's kind of a "wet run", if you see fingers during the wet shrink, you'll see them when you install. Also add more film on your edges and shrink about an inch beyond the final cut line so anything like a finger will be pushed beyond. 

I think pretty much everything on the planet is Carbon, so every one is right. That popped in my head sipping my CARBONated soda, so if someone wants carbon film dump some soda on it and say you've been CARBON-ated bee-otch. Problem solved all around for everyone.

44 minutes ago, jh812 said:

Like this?

 

 and beware of youtube videos that have the comments shut off 

2 hours ago, pbalentine said:

Almost 7 years and my classic black shows no fading or color change. 

Why do we have their cheapest film on our vehicles? lol 

Dude i know what i'm doing and i still watch tint videos on youtube just because i like it and i learn from other people. get the DVD's and watch them, watch youtube, read these groups, always keep learning. I was going to buy the DVDs just to see how Stan does his work and maybe pick up a few pointers. You're lucky this is a time when you can ask anybody on the planet a question via the internet. there's a lot of good tips out there, but also a lot of low quality people making vids. but to answer your question yes get the DVDs, Stan is one of the top people out there and well known among the tint folk. @flat rock stan 

1 hour ago, quality tintz said:

Nice i wanna try ultra...is it good any body use it....

if you're using CarbonFX it's basically the same level film with a different hue. Ultra is charcoal, CarbonFX is black. Like same install but different tone.

It seems like a city thing, growing up in the Bronx we always called people "Chief" or "boss" or whatever, never once was it meant as disrespectful and i'm surprised it bugs you. You know what bugs me and it shouldn't? when people say "i was using a guy in NJ but i guess i'll give you a shot" lol damn i hate that

6 hours ago, quality tintz said:

Carbon fx is nice film  from solar fx that's what im using now and vintage is good a little cheaper.... I think it is called vintage right guys ???

I don't think Vintage and Prime are color stable. I think he'd want UltraFX or CarbonFX if he was looking for no fade.

20 hours ago, Long027 said:

Im just curious if i where to install solar Fx 5% classic black non-color stable film how long will it take to fade purple. State. Nebraska.

I put 20% Classic Series Black, which is their cheapest 5 year warranty film, on my truck front windows to test it out i think 3 years ago and it hasn't faded or changed color at all. I looked at the edge of the glass at the top where it gets hidden by the gasket when the window is closed and there's no color change or fade, i love it's black color and great clarity. Another tint dude told me he had it on his car for 4 years and no fade or color issues. We're all told to stay away from 1 ply or cheaper films, but this stuff is better than some of the 2 ply out there, it lays down great on dot matrix and defrosters because it's thinner, and the clarity is amazing. I really have no complaints about the product at all, i rarely use it because i suck at shrinking/installing 1 ply and sell mostly SolarFX's CarbonFX. I should note that your results may vary if your down South, i'm in the chilly Northeast.

8 mls per liter for sides, 12 mls per liter for back glass. that's using Joy Non-Ultra. 8 mls per liter is the same ratio as 1oz per gallon.