Dano

Some more info would be helpful. If you're doing 9 or 11 window Audi/BMW I think that might be a little lean. 1 through 7 windows looks about right for higher end work. 80 to remove a windshield might be fair depending on who is insuring for any damage. I wouldn't want to be liable personally because of all the exposed modules, etc. An assistant, I would expect to pay 50k yr +any production bonuses if he can get the keep the volume up consistently. That position looks like an expence until its not filled. Compensation needs to be reasonable for that area and to prevent turnover. That's my 2¢.

Ding Ding Ding...we have a winner🏆 ....that is unless steveo wants to hit the meth pipe again and feed himself to a crocodile🐊🐊🌴 Unfortunately mobile work is very difficult to get correct, as previously stated, and most guys offering mobile services are otherwise unemployable, like the clown that keeps showing up in this thread.

Mobile...Rayno....about says it all.

Put some soap on the back of the dozer, push down on the light/deck and try to exit the side instead of coming back up. Or use some slip tape instead of soap if you have it. Reach tool or a Titan might be helpful also.

You would likely do better in Texas. Most of Florida is saturated with installers. Pricing is a race to the bottom down there. @Bham is correct in suggesting south fla if that was your pick. A word of caution; Miami is not what you see on tv. You can go a few blocks in any direction from a famous landmark and be directly in the hood. The sharks are eating the sharks down there. I would personally recommend looking at Fort Worth, north Dallas or Houston for areas of concentrated wealth to draw from.

Sky high taxes, real estate, crime, insurance are all that comes to mind when I think about CA. I would imagine a market flooded with installers as well, but I could be wrong. What market are you in currently?

Near identical product. Find it at any motorcycle shop. Thanks for the seal info.

Also please hit the tip jar for @TintDude or sign up for a premium sub. Without his effort we wouldn't be able to share any of this. He's a great host and puts in alot of effort to keep us live. (Yes that's a shameless plug, I have no shame : )

Anytime ply. I'm always trying to push the industry forward. Also, nothing wrong with the rolands, I've had a few. You might also look at the 8000s. Just about the same as the 8600. I haven't heard much positive feedback about the 9000s tho. Some are going back to the older models. If you run into any issues, post em up and tag me. I've been in tint, graphics,design,wrap and ppf a looong time. Always happy to help.

I haven't used a Rolland in a while, just Graphtechs here. My answer is still the same. Turn down the force and test cut some ovals. If it's not cutting, turn up the pressure bit by bit until it's correct. Cutting door edge strips from left to right will tell you how it's going after you get some ovals to cut clean. You may have to add/reduce pressure slightly from day to day depending on the temperature and how you feel it's cutting. Also get some Clean Cut blades. I think they are the highest quality available. Always have an extra on hand in case you drop one. 25* window film 45* sign vinyl, light wrap, ppf 60* metallic wrap, laminated wrap, ppf (uses less force, easier on the machine)

Correct. I only discount for volume, paid in full at the first scheduled appointment. During the 07 to 09 period I raised my prices to shake out bad customers and spend my time finding better. Today I tell people that I'm not going to be the cheapest, but I will stand behind every piece of film I lay and offer to provide client references. Fortunately 9/10 customers today are referrals and the vetting, for me and them is already done.

I would just use a 45* or 60* blade and dial it up slow until it cuts right, starting with some rounded rectangles and ovals. In the summer I use less pressure because the film isn't as rigid.

The only way I ever get all three is with volume. Of course a good salesman will make you think you're always getting all three.

Thanks for the kind words. Lots of good advice in this thread. Years ago I did direct marketing mailers, 4x6 postcards to targeted zip codes. They worked pretty good but needed to be sent out every six weeks, three times total per season starting mid March. One of the best bits of advice was from a long time industry guy who told me to lower my price on fulls by $10 and offer with no warranty, at the same time raising my price by $25 for a lifetime warranty. At the time, 20yrs ago, I was at $150. You wouldn't believe how many people took the job at $175 because they were thinking past the sale. For those that wanted the warranty and a discount I would tell them I would package three similar cars for $500 and add in a visir strip for the first car. The customer then became my salesman. I proceeded to offer upgraded film and visors to the remaining two people that he brought in. Used car lots were a good place to run the three car discount as well. Another good trick up my sleeve was to go in to a buisness while the sun was blazing in the glass either early or late day and ask if they wanted to cool it off. That worked pretty good. There are so many good hustles if you can get into the mind of what someone actually needs. Radical Service was a good book related to the idea of sourcing and retaining good customers.

Crazy how some things I once learned are stuck in the way back file of memory because I've learned so many more ways to get to the same outcome since then. Feel like I just took a trip back to the 90s. Thanks Plains...I think

The button is a great trick. I discovered that when I found out how soft the ford probe rear glass was back in the day.

The elcheapo amazon replacement strips are pretty good. I try to keep at least one on hand just in case. Same with blades, you never know when you might need one. Or even better, someone local might need one and you get to be a hero and exchange some good will.

If you don't have a plotter use a wax pencil and cut on a peel board.

Anytime Doc, always happy to share something useful.

It's a braided microfiber rope that I probably paid too much for, but has saved my tail many times, so definitely worth the cost. I usually break the melted knots on the ends to stuff 'em deeper and have them not snag the film as I pull them out. I also press on the dash when pulling so they don't drain out when pulling. The other tool is a "must have" for my style of installation. I found them both on 44tools.

I'd call that a win. It's really down to just luck of the draw depending on how the water chooses to drain down the channels. Some of the back windows on the euro cars are just as bad with the modules hidden behind the panels in front of the rear wheels, under the rear package trays. Ridiculous that cars are built like that knowing that so many are going to get tinted, but hey, they saved a dollar on the connectors.

The glass can vary by wild margins as well. Most of the time no two windows are the same on any vehicle. If you have access to a good meter you will be stunned at the readings.

Pull the passenger side kick panel and wrap the electronic box with plastic wrap/microfiber towels. Pull the A pillars stuff in as many towels as you can. Soak rope the dash and clean before you shrink, pull the rope and change with a dry one. Extra soap when installing and use as little water as possible at each step. All this and you may still have issues, so get a damage waiver before you start. If you're real paranoid disconnect the battery before you get the first drop of water on the glass.

I saw something similar a few years ago being test flown at a bodyshop locally. The painters/techs hated it because it couldn't be sanded/polished without a ton of effort and was rejected. This was in the clear coat. I can't imagine that having it integrated to single stage would be any better...or with less labor.

Try putting soap on the tools to help slide in, and pushing down on the deck as you sweep. If it's still too tight you might have to cut arround it or pull the rear package tray, which I would not do willingly because of the risk of damage.