Dano

Supercharged! Full bumper, 18" Hood/Fenders, Ceramic front doors. This one already had a little road rash from the summer season but otherwise pretty minty. It's funny how the guys that daily drive these give you the smile when they hand you the red key The reality is that I try to move the hot rods around as little as possible. Always fun to hear 'em roar when they fire up though

How many times has your customer rolled down a freshly tinted window to ask what to clean it with?

Ceramic doors and visor on this sweet rig today. Wouldn't fit inside but had great weather with no wind this morning.

Nice cans!!

I haven't had any issues...yet. I always pull the pillar covers and stuff a bunch of microfibers down in the voids. Also I'll clean the glass first, change the rope, shrink/install, then leave the doors open while I go to lunch before starting the vehicle. Fwiw, I've had more issues with Chrysler/VW products than any other brand over the years. +1 for having a waiver and explaining it to your clients.

Agree. Looks like a combination of pits in the exterior of the glass, hard water spots and car wax dryed in the pits. Marks in the glass become more appearant after tinting because the film adds contrast and makes the exterior surface easier to observe.

When loading 60" PPF I'll spool out 5-6feet before lowering the clamp. As I lower the clamp I flatten the material from side to side so that it doesn't bunch up, then feed it backwards to the origin point. Of all the materials, ppf seems to be the most difficult to keep square. Sounds like you're on the right track.

Check the tensioners on the roller foot to make sure they are all set the same and clean the rubber rollers with alcohol. If it still pulls uneven then you're not setting the film up straight. Advance the film forward and back about 3feet to see if it's tracking properly.

Kiss cutting is the only way to get the patterns off the machine. The liner has to stay in tact for the rollers to advance the material. You might want to try a Clean Cut brand 25* blade. If you are mostly getting a good cut currently, try to rotate the knob on the holder by just a hair. Literally just nudge it and cut a few 2" ovals the width of the film and see if it lifts any better. I've posted in a few other threads some good info on how to dial in these machines if you look around. Good luck, it should be pretty simple once you get the hang of it.

I refused to pull one and had my customer (wholesale flipper) say "I'll get it"....and broke it. Comes back with a new windshield and did it again a few days later... I sent another to the ford dealer, after refusing for their customer, and watched their tech with the "proper tool" snap it right away. Since they had to replace it at their expense, word went out that day to not do another one. Those mounts were never a good idea.

Ford and just about anything euro, I'm probably not effing with the mirror mount.

Pull the a-pillar covers, use a soak rope and stuff some towels in the corners to stop the water from draining into the dash. Also cover the head up display on the dash if there is one.

30% conversion rate on leads to sales is the floor, not the ceiling. Someone who knows that industry well could easily double that while up selling the tickets with other related services. 10% commission plus base pay? In order to pay someone 16 it likely will cost the employer around 21. Add the commission and you would be asking for 70k year which is likely not going to happen unless/until you can broker fleet accounts and turn up the volume as an outside sales rep. Take a look at the company as a whole. Total inputs/outputs. How much would you allocate to payroll, materials, advertising, utilities, location and insurance out of 100% and maintain enough profit, after tax of course, to justify the carry cost? "I tell ya folks, it's harder than it looks" - Bon Scott

I've never been asked for any kind of cert. Of course I probably sound like your average salty installer that's had enough of everyone's crap.

I've been ordering here, filmnow.com. Shipping to CO is pretty quick. I usually call to get a 60" cut down to 38/22 rather than just ordering online.

Ppf is going to be the easiest for you to transition to coming from detail and being familiar with car body shapes. Tinting can be alot more challenging to get right in a detail shop, even for an experienced installer. Taking the class from Xpel would probably benefit you in your position because it would (1) give you brand support for ongoing install questions. (2)becoming a dealer would probably be easier after having gone through their training and beginning a professional relationship. (3) likely give you access to a protected product area. Ask first to make sure that access will granted. (4) you would most likely be added to their list of installers on their website if you are accepted as a dealer. For someone just starting out the dealer/marketing support would be helpful, even if you pay a few dollars extra as compared to taking a random class and whinging it. Once you've been at it for a few years any solid brand/product will do, however, some prefer the dealer model for the obvious benefits and build their buisness around it. You'll find what works for you after you've been at it for a few years. Good luck and post any install questions you might have once you get started. This is a really good/helpful community here.

I've got the ceramic 70 in a heat/light cube with the ceramic 30, HP30 and clear glass. That stuff is amazing, especially when you can see it side by side. I suspect it's two layers of ceramic base films laminated together to meter at 70vlt. I hope they never change it. Thanks @Bham. Believe it or not I really enjoy educating the customers to find out what they really need and not try to oversell just to turn a buck. Most of my new clients come from older referrals and when they find me I keep em for years. For sure more people are catching on to the product name and I've yet to have a piece of HP or the ceramic fail that wasn't my own fault. It's nice to know I'm not paying for a bunch of marketing collateral and a butt kissing salesman to travel around pass out tshirts and coffee cups that's added into the cost of my roll stock.

I've had good results with the Global so far. No minimum requirements but also not much brand recognition in my area.

1. Paint your floors with cheap epoxy and sprinkle a light dusting of play sand over it while its wet to make it less slick. 2. Get your peel board as close as you can to your prepped glass. Mist the air before you open your pattern. 3. Rope off the area that you don't want people walking into. 4. Build nice, easily readable signs to look like your running a top knotch install shop. 5. Save every dollar you can and keep an eye out for a better location. Move your signs to the new shop for brand recognition. 6. Turn the old location into a detail shop (keeps someone else from capitalizing on your good name) and send the tint over to the new place. 7. Treat your customers like gold and they will follow you. Everyone likes to see a good shop grow. 8. Start tinting the crusty diesels in ceramic for top dollar. They spend more time in those trucks than they do at home. 9. If you have a plotter offer vin, dot and company names on the trucks. Every one of them need it. 10. Hustle and improve where you can. If it was easy it wouldn't be worth doing.

For context, I bulk 99% of my installs to have more material to work with and to not have to figure out what the designer was thinking in terms of where to streach and how much.

"but what about full bumper wraps or the dreaded mirror caps? " More soap and don't over perform. It only has to be comparable to the original install for bodyshops. After doing enough bodyshop replacements you start to see that most installs are subpar to begin with.

On point 1... don't discount anything, to anyone. Instead provide better value per dollar spent in punctual, correct service. Eventually the shops will call because the normal guy is busy or irritated someone who who makes the call. It will happen to you as well. On point 2...I have a never lift policy when it comes to fresh paint because everything can go south trying to reposition, as you've figured out. +1 on the extra soap and I would add that you stop using alcohol in your solution in general. I only use it to wipe the edges before install.

"I use x brand because I've had great results. I like the optical clarity and have had zero returns unless to service another one of their vehicles. I have the option to use any film I choose and prefer x brand. At the end of the day the best install is about choosing the best installer that will stand behind the work...and thats me." You can then proceed to dazzle them with film and install knowledge until their eyes glaze over. It's hard for a customer to not want to go with a perceived independent expert over a cookie cutter high volume shop even tho the outcomes are likely comparable. You have to sell the sizzle because the steak is all about the same.

I've done it. Hail shops and especially bodyshops are always looking for someone to replace films on panels that get painted or removed for pdr. Since its sublet the shops are allowed to mark up the local retail (your) rate, so no need to discount. Independent pdr shops will often waive the customers deductible to sell the job....or if they can offer tint/ppf/paint correction to include into the job at no cost instead of waiving. Neither will be too price sensitive as long as you're not above general market rates in your area. If you can deal with the scheduling chaos and local travel to the shops that goes with that industry you can make good money and develop a good name for yourself as the guy that they can trust to keep them out of the fire. You can easily convert the shop staff and their families/friends to customers With the ammount of full bumper ppf out there, collision repair can be quite profitable over the course of a year. Beware of working on fresh paint. They don't have time to wait to stop the clock on rental cars and the shops need those cars gone so that they can get their billing submitted. Sometimes your invoice being submitted is more important than the film itself before a weekend for that reason. Mobile Tech RX is a great app for billing on the fly. Scan vin, select service and email invoice in just a few minutes. About $900yr....absolutely worth it.

^^^ Just be the guy that can do it reliably and possibly discount their personal cars unless you're getting some serious volume on contracting the whole lot for preloading. Dealerships will sell their mothers to scrimp a dollar tomorrow. I've seen the tinting at dealers start and stop on a dime....literally.